Glad to have helped! I don't even recognize my car in this thread anymore. LOL!
LOL. by the way, the note you made about making an adjustment to the metal wire for the horn button to work totally saved me time from disassembling everything! haha
Glad to have helped! I don't even recognize my car in this thread anymore. LOL!
LOL. by the way, the note you made about making an adjustment to the metal wire for the horn button to work totally saved me time from disassembling everything! haha
Plus 1. When I switched back to a stock wheel to try out, hated it, then switched back to the momo tuner, I couldn't remember the airbag jumper sequence. This thread helped jog my memory.
decent video on steering wheel removal
You'd have to cut a hole in the bottom of the hub to run the wires through but theoretically you could do it.
Kind of like what this guy did.
Or you can just remove the clock spring altogether and put cruise control buttons on the steering column.
At one point I had the Momo Type R hub. The Mita kit comes with a custom bracket that grounds the horn button. No need for the clock spring.
Currently, I am using the NRG short hub. This uses the clock spring and has a notch specifically designed for it.
I do not have cruise control wires hooked up.
Curious, what made you decide to switch? How do the two compare? Pros vs Cons?
Good question. It had nothing to do with the hub. Instead, it was the combination of the quick disconnect and my steering wheel design which is concave.
With the Momo Type R hub, quick disconnect, and concave steering wheel it was too close to my chest for comfortable driving. I was hoping the telescopic steering column would help, but it wasn't enough.
By changing to the short hub, I was able to have my arms extended for a more natural position. By the way, my fingers can reach the turn signal naturally. With the above, I had to move my hand off the steering wheel to touch the turn signal lever.
Note: If I only had the Momo Type R hub and steering wheel, everything would have been fine. However, I like the quick disconnect to help me get in and out of my aftermarket bucket seat.
In regards to wiring, the Momo hub was easier. There was more room to feed the wires and connectors. The Mita kit has a nice custom bracket that eliminates the clock spring. If you remove your clock spring, be sure to secure it so it does not freely spin. I heard it is designed to spin only a few rotations, so if it freely spins it could damage it. (note sure if that is true, but better safe than sorry)
As for the NRG short hub that uses the clock spring, I had a hard time adding wire connectors because there was little room to work with. Perhaps it is my combination with the quick disconnect (also NRG).
Anyways, I had to remove the factory wire connector on the clock spring to expose the bare wires. I used that to connect the horn button inside the quick disconnect.