I'm planning on doing this (first time on an NSX) in the next few weeks with a buddy of mine. I have the the information from www.danoland.com and also from this site. I was wondering if it is pretty straightforward or if there are any more caveats I need to be aware of. Thanks in advance.
DIY brake fluid bleeding
- Thread starter nsx13
- Start date
DanO's write-ups are usually pretty darn complete...
If you are bleeding by pumping the brake pedal, be sure and place a block of wood or other object behind the pedal to prevent accidentally pushing the pedal to the floor. This could create a situation allowing crud in the master cylinder to flow past the piston and permanently damage the master cylinder.
Or use a suction bleeder and do not worry about it!
Or use a suction bleeder and do not worry about it!
The first time I was bleeding the brakes, I screwed up in a big way. Here’s what I did and I hope you don’t do the same.
I had the clutch fluid reservoir open (instead of the brake fluid reservoir). I kept on pumping and bleeding the brakes … I would get out and check the oil level … but the oil level looked okay. So I kept on going until I was sucking in air! Then I finally realized that I had the wrong oil cap off and was looking at the clutch fluid instead! Things got ugly after that and took a long time to get the air out of the brake lines.
Make sure you open the brake reservoir and not the clutch fluid reservoir – they are very close to each other.
Has anyone else done the same or am I the only bone head?
I had the clutch fluid reservoir open (instead of the brake fluid reservoir). I kept on pumping and bleeding the brakes … I would get out and check the oil level … but the oil level looked okay. So I kept on going until I was sucking in air! Then I finally realized that I had the wrong oil cap off and was looking at the clutch fluid instead! Things got ugly after that and took a long time to get the air out of the brake lines.
Make sure you open the brake reservoir and not the clutch fluid reservoir – they are very close to each other.
Has anyone else done the same or am I the only bone head?
If you are not doing this for a few weeks, take the opportunity to order Speedbleeders, as DanO suggests - you can probably get them inside a week.
Get them at http://www.speedbleeder.com
The part # for the NSX is SB10125 (10mm x 1.25) - I got the SS ones which are a few more $$$ but very nice. They came already coated with sealer on the threads, nice feature.
What these do for you is that you don't have to open/close the bleed nipple with each down/up stroke - there is a one way valve that does not allow it to suck back when the pedal is on the up-stroke (details on the Speedbleeder site). Just open the valve & pump away slowly up & down.They also sell a nice accessory which is a disposal bag with tube already attached,which saves screwing aroung with a jar & tubing.
Alternatively, you can also by bleeding kits which have an external one way valve after the hose, but the speedbleeders are cost-effective & very efficient.
No affiliation, just satisfied user - nice products.
Get them at http://www.speedbleeder.com
The part # for the NSX is SB10125 (10mm x 1.25) - I got the SS ones which are a few more $$$ but very nice. They came already coated with sealer on the threads, nice feature.
What these do for you is that you don't have to open/close the bleed nipple with each down/up stroke - there is a one way valve that does not allow it to suck back when the pedal is on the up-stroke (details on the Speedbleeder site). Just open the valve & pump away slowly up & down.They also sell a nice accessory which is a disposal bag with tube already attached,which saves screwing aroung with a jar & tubing.
Alternatively, you can also by bleeding kits which have an external one way valve after the hose, but the speedbleeders are cost-effective & very efficient.
No affiliation, just satisfied user - nice products.
Mine just arrived yesterday. Took 6 days from order.D'Ecosse said:
Speed Bleeder
Just my 2 cents, I recently installed the speed bleeders. This will be the best $80 you could ever spend on your car. They work amazingly well and make a mess job a snap.
Just my 2 cents, I recently installed the speed bleeders. This will be the best $80 you could ever spend on your car. They work amazingly well and make a mess job a snap.
I agree- SpeedBleeders are a must if you autocross or track your car.
Can someone provide me info on how to safely use the suction bleeder?
I was flipping through Griots Garage calalogue and was wondering about those pneumatic suction bleeder kits. It sounds as if you just hook it to your air tank, open the bleeder valve a little and sit back and watch it suck the brake fluid out. Is it really that easy? It's kind of pricey at $188, but if it's that easy I might invest in one.
I think you mean a vacuum pump. I've used it to do my brakes & makes it very easy. Use a turkey baster to empty most fluid from reservoir and replace with new. Use the vacuum pump at each wheel to pull fluid thru the lines until you are getting fresh fluid into the catch jar that screws to the vacuum pump. Stop periodically to top off reservoir. Repeat for other wheels. I do it like brake bleeding- start farthest from master cylinder & work closer. Got mine at Western auto for ~$30 on sale. It came with various lines, adaptors, and good instructions.
Clutch bleeder
Speedbleeder also makes one for bleeding the clutch. The part number is SB8125L. Don't overlook this one too.
Speedbleeder also makes one for bleeding the clutch. The part number is SB8125L. Don't overlook this one too.
When using the vacuum, do you need to pump the brakes at all?
it sounds like we
1. remove the brake fluid cap from the reservior.
2. loosen the bleeding bolt.
3. connect the suction hose
4. pump out the old brake fluid
5. monitor the reservior level and add more once needed.
6. when the fluid changes from dirty to clean in the output hose, stop pump and tighten bleeding bolt.
it sounds like we
1. remove the brake fluid cap from the reservior.
2. loosen the bleeding bolt.
3. connect the suction hose
4. pump out the old brake fluid
5. monitor the reservior level and add more once needed.
6. when the fluid changes from dirty to clean in the output hose, stop pump and tighten bleeding bolt.
never used a pump but the principle is the same as manual bleeding - you're just "pulling" the fluid through instead of "pushing" it.
Personally, I would reverse your steps 2 & 3 in sequence. For step 6 I would probably close the bleed nipple before I shut off the pump. (Place your box wrench over the nipple before you attach the hose & leave it there during the process so you can open & close the nipple at the time you want.)
If you are replacing the fluid entirely, you may wish to suck out most of the old fluid from the reservoir after step 1 then refill with fresh before continuing onto step 2.
Personally, I would reverse your steps 2 & 3 in sequence. For step 6 I would probably close the bleed nipple before I shut off the pump. (Place your box wrench over the nipple before you attach the hose & leave it there during the process so you can open & close the nipple at the time you want.)
If you are replacing the fluid entirely, you may wish to suck out most of the old fluid from the reservoir after step 1 then refill with fresh before continuing onto step 2.
Thanks for the help .. it really does sound easy. Even if I don't track the car.. I should still do this every two years right?
Thanks for all the input! I ordered the stainless steel speedbleeders and finally put them in this afternoon - pretty straightforward and DanO's instructions were awesome.
Took less than 2 hours start to finish and that included cleaning the insides of my rims and taking a pretty leisurely pace.
1 note: I didn't have a turkey baster so I just used a spray bottle mechanism and "sprayed" the fluid from the master cylinder into a plastic bottle. I think this might be more effective in getting more of the old fluid out than a turkey baster because the little plastic tube is small enough to really get to the bottom of the reservoir. I then wiped the bottom with a cloth - looks like there were some sediments.
Add me to the list of satisfied speedbleeder customers - highly recommend them!!
Took less than 2 hours start to finish and that included cleaning the insides of my rims and taking a pretty leisurely pace.
1 note: I didn't have a turkey baster so I just used a spray bottle mechanism and "sprayed" the fluid from the master cylinder into a plastic bottle. I think this might be more effective in getting more of the old fluid out than a turkey baster because the little plastic tube is small enough to really get to the bottom of the reservoir. I then wiped the bottom with a cloth - looks like there were some sediments.
Add me to the list of satisfied speedbleeder customers - highly recommend them!!
nsx13 said:
Cool idea! Mind if I add that suggestion to the DIY page?
Thanks,
DanO
DanO said:
DanO,
Be my guest!
I have heard good things about this product too. Cheaper than a set speed bleeders and you can do all your cars.
http://motiveproducts.com/
http://motiveproducts.com/
Power bleeder
It would appear that it's not difficult to build your own, either...
http://www.apexcone.com/Bleeder/bleeder.html
It would appear that it's not difficult to build your own, either...
http://www.apexcone.com/Bleeder/bleeder.html
