- Joined
- 19 January 2011
- Messages
- 714
Finally found the time and got everything done just yesterday.
Here was the link before I did anything but move it back to the first hole, you can see how its maxed out and loading even there.
I had taken some initial measurements and had a buddy do up some aluminum 5/8ths spacers and I picked up the longer bolts needed to accommodate the length with the new spacers.
get these bolts and youll be able to use the nylock nut that comes on the kit. I could only find the size bolts I needed in in hex head, which is fine if as long as the the head wont contact the heim ball socket, if spaced correctly, they wont. You'll need 4 of these since your replacing all of the bolts the kit came with. Note the length, thats the min you'll need for the strut side to get enough thread into the nut you can get away with a bit shorter on the sway side but to make it simple just get 4 of the same.
After uninstalling and reinstalling and fiddling with the length for a bit I decided that i need more spacer that id initially thought. I went and picked up some nylon/delrin spacers and added them in between the spacer that came with the kit and the aluminum one id had made.
also added a spacer on the top
finished. Youll notice the end link is as vertical as possible and still has some space for motion on the ball.
When checking this you'll want to put your jack up under the knuckle so you can see where everything is sitting while under compression. (note; to get a true reading the car either needs to be on the ground, compressed, or both fronts need to be compressed using the jack method at the same time. Just doing one side while the other side of the bar is drooping will cause slight changes; not critical but if you gunna do something you may as well do it right..
this is how it should look
Quick notes:
-You're changing all 4 bolts.
-You're reusing the black spacers that came with the source links.
-if youre using nylon or delren spacers make sure not to over tighten the bolts and crunch them. Get the tightest inner diameter around the bolt and the thickest walled spacer you can find.
-Your milage may very. I happened to need an inch on the bottom to space it correctly, you might not. Ive got billet swaybar clamps too, that may change things if you don't.
- I'm likely going to ditch the nylon spacers all together and have everything made out of aluminum just so i don't have to think about checking these parts for cracking.
-you can order everything you need from McMastercarr.com. I got everything other than the aluminum spacers at OSH
Here was the link before I did anything but move it back to the first hole, you can see how its maxed out and loading even there.
I had taken some initial measurements and had a buddy do up some aluminum 5/8ths spacers and I picked up the longer bolts needed to accommodate the length with the new spacers.
get these bolts and youll be able to use the nylock nut that comes on the kit. I could only find the size bolts I needed in in hex head, which is fine if as long as the the head wont contact the heim ball socket, if spaced correctly, they wont. You'll need 4 of these since your replacing all of the bolts the kit came with. Note the length, thats the min you'll need for the strut side to get enough thread into the nut you can get away with a bit shorter on the sway side but to make it simple just get 4 of the same.
After uninstalling and reinstalling and fiddling with the length for a bit I decided that i need more spacer that id initially thought. I went and picked up some nylon/delrin spacers and added them in between the spacer that came with the kit and the aluminum one id had made.
also added a spacer on the top
finished. Youll notice the end link is as vertical as possible and still has some space for motion on the ball.
When checking this you'll want to put your jack up under the knuckle so you can see where everything is sitting while under compression. (note; to get a true reading the car either needs to be on the ground, compressed, or both fronts need to be compressed using the jack method at the same time. Just doing one side while the other side of the bar is drooping will cause slight changes; not critical but if you gunna do something you may as well do it right..
this is how it should look
Quick notes:
-You're changing all 4 bolts.
-You're reusing the black spacers that came with the source links.
-if youre using nylon or delren spacers make sure not to over tighten the bolts and crunch them. Get the tightest inner diameter around the bolt and the thickest walled spacer you can find.
-Your milage may very. I happened to need an inch on the bottom to space it correctly, you might not. Ive got billet swaybar clamps too, that may change things if you don't.
- I'm likely going to ditch the nylon spacers all together and have everything made out of aluminum just so i don't have to think about checking these parts for cracking.
-you can order everything you need from McMastercarr.com. I got everything other than the aluminum spacers at OSH
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