Dali Trophy Swaybar Install

S

Stephen@NCAutoUSA

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I'm trying to install my 1 inch straight front trophy swaybar but I'm stuck. My car is a 91 and I was told that I need to switch the swaybar links from left to right, and also get spacers for the bushings.

On Dali's site it says bend the coolant hoses up and notch the spare battery tire tray.

Has anyone else installed these and can give me tips or tricks on what I'm missing? Even with the spacers dropping down the bar slightly it looks so tight. Here are the pictures of what I'm talking about.

photo-108.jpg


photo-107.jpg


The bar sits so tight underneath the lower two front bay coolant hoses but sits on top of the wish bone suspension.
 
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he has both. 1" and 1.125". Both are straight and both are trophy bars. Might just want to check the OD of your unit just to be sure.

http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1407

http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=2134

I got his last 1" for illwillem a few wks ago. I'm getting the next one from the next batch but that won't be ready until next week. So depending on your timing you might have gotten the 1.125".

1k2go also did this install so maybe PM him? I haven't not done it yet myself but Mark does warn that this sway bard does require some "fiddling".
 
Ah memories... Looks fun and familiar. The front is a royal pita. Rear's a piece of cake. Sounds like you are using your oem end links? I would strongly recommend you get some adjustable end links for a bar this big. They will install easier and are much stronger. You will break those oem links, just a matter of time. The bar is BIG! and will come in contact with all the *sduff* near it especially your coolant hoses. I wrapped the bar in thin rubber where ever it was close to contact. It's going to take a lot of fiddling & jostling to get the bar set up properly.
front
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...0K-Track-Tool-to-beat-500K-Track-Tools/page12

rear
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...0K-Track-Tool-to-beat-500K-Track-Tools/page13
 
Rob is this really that much better than your comptech bars? even with stiffer springs? I am at 1000/600. which bar would you recommend I get? I keep going back and forth on this. I tried to buy the one shuddr was selling that was a 1" dali but he sold it on me. I am just thinking with my springs I may not need so much sway bar. And can get something that fits easier this looks like a lot of work and modification. I do have titanium dave's end links up front. Oem out back. I will watch this thread on the install.

- - - Updated - - -

Also I don't get the difference between the 1" track listed at 500% stiffer and the 1" trophy also listed as 500% stiffer. Only the shape seems less intrusive on the "track". Someone tell me the difference between these two.
 
Turbo, unbolt the two 10mm bolys that secure coolant hard pipes, 1 on the frame rail at the passenger side and 1 back under the heater core on the fire wall. This will give you some wiggle room to work with. I ended up leaving the firewall 10mm bolt off. once you get the bar on i turned and positioned the coolant clamps so that the metal of the hose clamp was resting on the metal of the sway bar. Once you do that, bend the tab up on the hard pipe that connects to the passenger side frame rail and thread back in the 10mm bolt. I used after market end links so I didnt have to turn anything around or whatever but if you go that route remember to grease them just before putting them on the car since most zerk guns wont fit in the spaces you'll have after its on.
 
I think you meant sduff. I don't have anything to install yet.
 
TURBO2GO said:
Rob is this really that much better than your comptech bars? even with stiffer springs? I am at 1000/600. which bar would you recommend I get? I keep going back and forth on this. I tried to buy the one shuddr was selling that was a 1" dali but he sold it on me. I am just thinking with my springs I may not need so much sway bar. And can get something that fits easier this looks like a lot of work and modification. I do have titanium dave's end links up front. Oem out back. I will watch this thread on the install.

Also I don't get the difference between the 1" track listed at 500% stiffer and the 1" trophy also listed as 500% stiffer. Only the shape seems less intrusive on the "track". Someone tell me the difference between these two.
Click to expand...

The straight shape of the trophy bar is stiffer by design than the bent track bar. I'm not sure what bars you have on your car now but with your current set-up I think a set of 7/8ths" CT bars front & rear is all you really need. ...and I just happen to have a set lying around...

- - - Updated - - -

illwillem said:
Turbo, unbolt the two 10mm bolys that secure coolant hard pipes, 1 on the frame rail at the passenger side and 1 back under the heater core on the fire wall. This will give you some wiggle room to work with. I ended up leaving the firewall 10mm bolt off. once you get the bar on i turned and positioned the coolant clamps so that the metal of the hose clamp was resting on the metal of the sway bar. Once you do that, bend the tab up on the hard pipe that connects to the passenger side frame rail and thread back in the 10mm bolt. I used after market end links so I didnt have to turn anything around or whatever but if you go that route remember to grease them just before putting them on the car since most zerk guns wont fit in the spaces you'll have after its on.
Click to expand...
+1 Pretty much describes what I had to do too.
 
RYU said:
illwillem - I think I recall getting you the poly bushings. Mark has the alum bushing available now for the full on #becauseracecar effect. Let me know if you want those instead. I'll pick up a set of alum and take yours in exchange.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dude. Thats actually how I found out that Mark had sent me the wrong size swaybars all those years ago. I bought the 1" aluminum bushings and was confused when they were bigger than the supposed 1" inch bar I was to have supposed to have been driving on for the past 3 years. Actually finially checking the bar with a calipers revealed the it was in fact a .87 width. and had been driving on the incorrect stuff. When I picked up the new bar from you i put em on with the 1" aluminum bushings i had to complement every other unpleasant chattery thing id done to my car.
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xburnitallx/media/20130623_141358_resized_zps893aefe6.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/xburnitallx/20130623_141358_resized_zps893aefe6.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130623_141358_resized_zps893aefe6.jpg"/></a>
 
oh right. I had forgotten you told me that. It's Friday...I was done thinking yesterday.
illwillem said:
Thanks Dude. Thats actually how I found out that Mark had sent me the wrong size swaybars all those years ago. I bought the 1" aluminum bushings and was confused when they were bigger than the supposed 1" inch bar I was to have supposed to have been driving on for the past 3 years. Actually finially checking the bar with a calipers revealed the it was in fact a .87 width. and had been driving on the incorrect stuff. When I picked up the new bar from you i put em on with the 1" aluminum bushings i had to complement every other unpleasant chattery thing id done to my car.
Click to expand...
But you're one fast MOFO!
 
After some emails from Mark and reading this thread I'm going to see what I can do tomorrow morning. If I can't get this done in a few hours then I'll just have to put the stock back in for now until I have enough time to do it again.

Thanks for the help thus far everyone.
 
As an FYI, instead of bending the radiator pipe, just raise it by 1/2 - 1" at least that is what we did with the 1" track bar (yes the track bar not the trophy so it should work for you too!). All you need to do is drill a hole to secure the bracket 1/2-1" higher. As for the linkage - I let the others offer fitment.
 
I installed my 1.125 in about an hour. Wasn't anything major. Yes I had to adjust the radiator pipe a little and I wrapped and clamped an old piece of rubber on the Trophy bar where it came in contact with the radiator pipes. But it was straightforward and I had little issues. It may be a PITA for some of you to install but when in, the feel of the car is amazing.
 
I've got a '97. As I remember I did have to slightly modify my ABS unit in order to get it to fit. I moved around the rubber grommet and that was it. The brackets and billet anchors lined up perfectly.
 
Sduff@Composites said:
What years are everyone's cars? I'm running into the same issues as 1k2go. The major thing in the way is the bracket that's holding the abs unit.
Click to expand...
Mine's a '91 and as previously stated, it was a RoyalPainInTheAss to install. I had to raise the coolant hoses and raise ABS unit, but none that came close to what I had to do to get the two sides to line up properly. For some reason, the mounting collars did not line up on my car so I had to get very creative to get everything lined up properly.

Was it worth it? Hell yeah it was. Night & day difference under hard cornering at the limit. Car corners much flatter now. I'd do it all over again for sure.
 
FYI for all those with the source1 end links using the Dali 1 inch track sway bar take a look at your end links when the car is at rest (settled on loaded suspension on the ground) I had an alignment and corner balance yesterday and was able to finally get under the car with it at proper height and all my angles dialed in. I had originally threaded the end link threaded in the middle setting of the bar when the car was up on stands and getting it back together. Then, yesterday, once it was all aligned I got back under I noticed that the source1 end links on the dali bar combo are causing the sway bar paths to become binded.
At rest end link should be straight up and down in order to transfer the most load efficiently to the bar. On the middle stiff setting of the dali the bar (where most of us want to be) the end link hex head is binding quite harshly on the heim joint wall. Under this static load the sway paths are not acting as they should and you have potential to damage something if its shocked while already stressed (offtrack excursion) as well as an overall shortened part life. The binding itself is caused by the sway bar being just shorter than other versions and/or the end links not having a long enough mounting bolt and thick enough delrin spacer to accommodate the bar on its middle setting.

The good news is that its quite a simple fix. Go to a local hardware store and get a new 10mm allen Hexhead in m12x 1.75 pitch thats longer than the supplied bolt. I went with a 4.5 inch length so I have the option of using the stiffest hole if I choose. You will also need thicker plastic spacers to bring the end link to the more vertical position. I got a few of different thicknesses in nylon so I can fine tune.

If you look at the two pictures above you'll notice what im talking about. 1K2GO yours looks very similar to mine so you likely have the same problem.

I can post the mcmastercarr links to the right bolts if you want but they only sell them by the packs of 10. You may be better off just finding them at a hardware store along with bushings.



 
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Sure I just got everything yesterday, im gone for the weekend but as soon as I have everything on the car ill snap a few pics
 

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