CV boots helping hand? Anyone?

[NSXBill2]

The pic should just show where to loosen the suspension arms instead of pulling the ball joints.

OK, absolutely you're right about not removing ball joints:smile:. Just didn't want to give the impression that middle shaft had to be removed....:smile:

 

[goldNSX]

On my "oldest" 91 NSX, the splines were really rusted. And this is a garage queen!

Washing may did the rusting (what else?). Interesting note, thanks! I'll run into this very soon.

 

[davidf]

Heres an odd question. My boots are in good shape but I'm slinging some {very little} grease from the right inner boot. I have the correct Honda grease that came with the boot kits. Can I possibly inject the new grease into the boots with one of those needles designed to inject grease into ball joints? The boots are'nt split but I like the idea of getting new grease to the CV's. Thoughts?

 

[drew]

The boots aren't split but I like the idea of getting new grease to the CV's. Thoughts?

If you make a hole it would just start slinging grease around. Adding more grease will probably not get the old grease to displace.

It is probably quite doable to cut the clamps, clean out as much grease as you can, refill it and then put new boot clamp(s) on it.

You would only need new clamp(s), grease and a $15 tool.

This would be a fair compromise.

 

[davidf]

If you make a hole it would just start slinging grease around. Adding more grease will probably not get the old grease to displace.

It is probably quite doable to cut the clamps, clean out as much grease as you can, refill it and then put new boot clamp(s) on it.

You would only need new clamp(s), grease and a $15 tool.

This would be a fair compromise.

Thanks Drew. I already have the OEM clamps/grease. Thats what I'll do.

 

[gdae]

I found this linky with a lot of good general information.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

It includes a reference to quick boots which might work in a situation like davidf's (and mine).

Note: I have got the real deal, the real information in hand. LarryB spent his time and effort to get that to me past my balky email system.
He's the best, and I am grateful. Many thanks, LarryB!

 

[dablackgoku1234]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I think I might be in a similar situation as gdae.

While I was bleeding my brakes yesterday, noticed that my rear passenger wheel was greasy (the inner barrel). Most of my suspension components were coated with grease and dirt. It *looks* like that its coming from the outer cv joint, but I didnt find any damage to the boot. I did notice there is grease on the clamp, so that might be the spot that is leaking. Here are some photos...

 

[Racerxjling]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I think I might be in a similar situation as gdae.

While I was bleeding my brakes yesterday, noticed that my rear passenger wheel was greasy (the inner barrel). Most of my suspension components were coated with grease and dirt. It *looks* like that its coming from the outer cv joint, but I didnt find any damage to the boot. I did notice there is grease on the clamp, so that might be the spot that is leaking. Here are some photos...

It's definitely the boot leaking. What is the age of the boot/car?

Jeff

 

[dablackgoku1234]

1991 with 88k miles.

 

[Racerxjling]

1991 with 88k miles.

After double checking for cracks (clean up the boot, spin the wheels under good lighting), just clean up the old grease and add new grease/clamps. Put light pressure on the accordion portion of the boots to see if there is any microcrack in it. If problem returns you obviously have to change out the boot as well. This would be a cheap/quick potential solution. However, if you have time (considering the age/mileage on the boot) and you have the skills, change out all 4 so you can sleep at night. It also helps if you are due for a tranny fluid change anyway.

Jeff

 

[dablackgoku1234]

Thanks Jeff! I'll do the quick solution for now. Is it necessary to clean out as much of the old grease as possible inside the boot before applying the new grease?

 

[Racerxjling]

Thanks Jeff! I'll do the quick solution for now. Is it necessary to clean out as much of the old grease as possible inside the boot before applying the new grease?

I certainly would...messy but not difficult to do. Get lots of latex gloves, shop towels, and a box to throw in all the mess. Of course, you need the special tool to tighten the clamps (do a search but think it was about $12 +ship).

Jeff

 

[NSXclear]

Yes, you should clean out as much of the old grease as possible. The more the better.

 

[NSXclear]

That seems like a lot of grease for not having a rip. You might want to double check to see if there is not tear.

Maybe get the tool and tighten the clamp up. Clean up the area and see if you get grease coming back.

It doesn't make to much sense to put in new grease to find out later that it still leaks out somewhere, only to replace the whole boot.

 

[EdinKali]

Back when I was fresh out of college I worked in an independent foreign car repair shop. I remember changing CV boots on cars without pulling the axles. There was a company that made boots that were split on one side(that you would glue shut with a vulcanizing rubber cement). You would cut the old boot and clamps off. Clean out the joint as best you could. Grease it up. Wrap boot around CV joint/axle, and put one clamp on. Fill the boot up with the remainder of the grease packet it came with. Glue the seam shut and put the last clamp on. Wonder if they still make those and if so, do they make a kit for the NSX. Would save folks a lot of $$ and labor. I don't recall one ever coming back leaking. Might be worth looking into. Looks like autozone.com has them for the NSX.

 

[gdae]

Back when I was fresh out of college I worked in an independent foreign car repair shop. I remember changing CV boots on cars without pulling the axles. There was a company that made boots that were split on one side(that you would glue shut with a vulcanizing rubber cement). You would cut the old boot and clamps off. Clean out the joint as best you could. Grease it up. Wrap boot around CV joint/axle, and put one clamp on. Fill the boot up with the remainder of the grease packet it came with. Glue the seam shut and put the last clamp on. Wonder if they still make those and if so, do they make a kit for the NSX. Would save folks a lot of $$ and labor. I don't recall one ever coming back leaking. Might be worth looking into. Looks like autozone.com has them for the NSX.

Ding ding ding! Look at this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...romWhere=&searchText=cvboot&_requestid=872738


Edit: so can anyone think of a good reason NOT to try this?

 

[drew]

Edit: so can anyone think of a good reason NOT to try this?

Yes, they are a joke. They are created to fill a demand for cheap (not to be confused with inexpensive, which I fully endorse) repairs. Most cars in LA are rolling junk heaps and seem to be six months from the bone yard, so this type of stuff makes sense.

Even if you could get the boot to perform (unlikely), you would need to clean and replace the grease--which breaks down over time. This requires the the disassembly of the joints and repacking....impossible to do with a split boot.

I've done this job, I can't imagine any labor reduction using a split boot, just a savings in tools. It doesn't take that long to do, it just requires the proper tools. And you're good for another 125K miles.

If somebody is really interested in this type of solution, I would hold out for a "bolted split boot" not a glued one.

***


http://www.raxles.com/splitboots.aspx

What about split-boots?
(or why we don't sell them)

Glue-together and bolt-together split-boots are available through various after-market suppliers that claim to eliminate the need to remove the driveshaft and CV joint when a boot needs replacement. In theory, using a split-boot can eliminate a lot of "unnecessary" labor associated with boot service. In practice, the split-boot has several serious drawbacks.

First, there is the question of reliability. The glue-together seam must be perfectly clean when the glue is applied for a good bond. A small speck of dirt or any grease on either surface will weaken the seam and may cause it to fail.

Second, the boot must be left undisturbed for up to an hour while the adhesive cures. Otherwise the seam will not hold. In the bolt-together boot, glue is not used to seal the seam. The manufacturer supplies an extra quantity of lubricant to replace grease that is continuously lost during normal operation. This necessitates periodic relubrication.

Third, Its very difficult to thoroughly clean and inspect a CV joint on the car. Some contaminated grease will remain in the bottom of the joint regardless of how much solvent is sprayed or brushed on the joint.

Fourth, and most importantly, a joint with a bad boot and contaminated grease may be damaged and need to be replaced anyway. It's impossible to detect certain types of cage damage and race wear without removing the joint from the car.

The promised labor savings of the split-boot will, therefore, often prove to be an expensive illusion. For these reasons, Raxles strongly disapproves of the split-boot! For safe and reliable service, there is no substitute for driveshaft removal and joint inspection. See our installation guide for more info.

 

[gdae]

Thanks, Drew. That's the voice of dissent I was looking for.

 

[ftuhy]

I've used split boots on 3 different front wheel drive cars in the past with excellent results. In all cases the factory original boot split (or got cut by road debris) at between 40,000 and 60,000 miles. The key, as mentioned often in this string, is absolute cleanliness and allowing the adhesive (a solvent actually) to dry at least an hour before moving the car. And that means not even taking it off the jack stands or lift. In all cases, those split boots lasted longer than the factory originals.

Now, would I use split boots on my NSX? Maybe. At 53,000 miles, I'm still on the originals. The key reason to replace them now would be to replace the grease and examine for wear. That's not possible without removing the shafts and complete dissassembly. So, I would use OEM replacement boots at this time.

But, if I had only a few years on freshly repacked joints, something cut one of the boots, and I know contaminants didn't enter the boot, I'd be comfortable using a split boot. After all, the NSX rear boots don't do nearly as much flexing as those on a front wheel drive car. And I plan to keep my NSX at least another 10 years, so cutting corners on repairs is not in the picture.

But, your mileage and opinions may vary. :wink:

 

[EdinKali]

That was my experience as well. Used them on customer's front wheel DD's.
Never had one come back for leaking. Inspected them on future visits. No leaks. If done properly they last longer than originals. The downside is you can't inspect the joint fully or remove "all" of the old grease.

Having said that. I ask myself "Would I use them on my own daily driver?" Yes. "Would I use them on my NSX?" Probably NOT unless I was on a really tight budget and couldn't afford to have it done with one piece boots.

My 2 cents.

 

[nsxrtd]

question: Are the inner and outer CV boots the same Dimensions?

 

[NSXBill2]

question: Are the inner and outer CV boots the same Dimensions?

As I recall, yes...one part number for a kit...four required per car.

 

[gdae]

If you get as far as holding the axle in your hand, advice from smarter men than me is that you should go ahead and redo both boots. Both are the same, and the part number for a CV boot kit is: 42017-SL0-000

 

[NSXBill2]

Since we are talking about it, here is a pic of the parts inside. Numbers and arrows are to assure reassembly in the same order of disassembly. Corresponding numbers were stamped on the carrier...

 

[goldNSX]

It also seems there are different service-sets for the boots around. The one i got from Honda in Holland was different from the ones you get in the US. In short.... try to save them metal binds with the securing clips, they rock (IMHO).

After having done it, I can confirm.
Thanks for the hint, they DO rock!