CV boots helping hand? Anyone?

gdae

gdae

Experienced Member
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A couple of years ago LarryB wrote an article for NSX Driver explaining proper CV Boot replacement procedure. I’ve searched and PM’d a few people, and emailed NSXCA, trying to lay hands on a copy, but no luck so far.
This isn’t a hey-gimme-a-free-carfax deal. I’d pay actual money for a copy or a photocopy of that, or would greatly appreciate an e-link or a clue.

The whole story is that the dealership quoted me $973.63 for “PASS AXLE BOOT;” with labor it comes to $1,160.63.
The actual cost of a boot kit is less than $30.00. Looks like they quoted for the whole axle cost. At any rate it got me thinking about trying a DIY.
I did search and PM around. No dice. How can I get hold of this information?

Thanks, guys
 
Good write-up, however, there are some pitfalls you have to know about before attempting this DIY.

1150 USD is a bit steep i'd say, lol
 
What city are you located in? Someone may be able to recommend a good independent dealer. I did it myself and it's a pretty involved esp. MESSY procedure. Learning curve is steep on this one so 2nd time around would take me half the amt of time.

Jeff
 
At first sight you might rate this DIY an 'easy', however, with everything involved it sure is a 'moderate'.
Its not so much the regreasing, but more getting the driveshafts out where there is a lot of room for BIG errors.

Read about 'Removing driveshafts', not so much in the manual, but more IRL experiences.

It also seems there are different service-sets for the boots around. The one i got from Honda in Holland was different from the ones you get in the US. In short.... try to save them metal binds with the securing clips, they rock (IMHO).
 
goldNSX said:
Are you referring to the ball joints and the big nut?

Messy: It's not that problematic. When I was playing with food on the table as little boy it was also a mess but also fun! :D
Click to expand...


Yup, as well.
 
DutchBlackNsx said:
At first sight you might rate this DIY an 'easy', however, with everything involved it sure is a 'moderate'.
Its not so much the regreasing, but more getting the driveshafts out where there is a lot of room for BIG errors.

Read about 'Removing driveshafts', not so much in the manual, but more IRL experiences.

It also seems there are different service-sets for the boots around. The one i got from Honda in Holland was different from the ones you get in the US. In short.... try to save them metal binds with the securing clips, they rock (IMHO).
Click to expand...

Exactly. That's the main idea behind trying to collect as much info as possible. I have time and tools, but if it looks like I could do more harm than good, I'll go to a local independent that is highly recommended.
Incidentally, I spoke to the service advisor at the dealership this morning, and he said it's Honda's policy to replace the whole assembly rather than reboot.
Sounds like it's more the dealer's policy to get 1k for a $200 job.
 
gdae said:
Exactly. That's the main idea behind trying to collect as much info as possible. I have time and tools, but if it looks like I could do more harm than good, I'll go to a local independent that is highly recommended.
Incidentally, I spoke to the service advisor at the dealership this morning, and he said it's Honda's policy to replace the whole assembly rather than reboot.
Sounds like it's more the dealer's policy to get 1k for a $200 job.
Click to expand...

If you can get both inner/out boots done for $200 it would be a no brainer for me to have them do it. I believe I was quoted $450 or $550 by an independent. IMO, $350 or less have them do it.

Jeff
 
If you get the axle out yourself, just drop it with Carl at Sterling Mccall and he'll do it in his spare time.:wink:
 
gdae said:
Incidentally, I spoke to the service advisor at the dealership this morning, and he said it's Honda's policy to replace the whole assembly rather than reboot.
Sounds like it's more the dealer's policy to get 1k for a $200 job.
Click to expand...

And I always believed that the US guys are pampered by Acura/Honda whereas the Europe guys are gotten to the cleaners.

Common, anybody here with a complete axle removal and installing DIY? :wink:

My friend did take out the axles like in the picture. He didn't touch the ball joints at all. The 335 Nm big nut is fearing me most. Maybe this works: Go to a shop (as I don't have an airtool for it), release the nut, put antisize on the threads, torque it to 50 Nm, drive home 500 meters and try to break the axle within the housing free. What so you think? Sometimes the axle is rusted in the wheelbearing housing.
 
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goldNSX said:
And I always believed that the US guys are pampered by Acura/Honda whereas the Europe guys are gotten to the cleaners.

Common, anybody here with a complete axle removal and installing DIY? :wink:

My friend did take out the axles like in the picture. He didn't touch the ball joints at all. The 335 Nm big nut is fearing me most. Maybe this works: Go to a shop (as I don't have an airtool for it), release the nut, put antisize on the threads, torque it to 50 Nm, drive home 500 meters and try to break the axle within the housing free. What so you think? Sometimes the axle is rusted in the wheelbearing housing.
Click to expand...

The thing you need the most, is propper tools.
Its not only loosing the nut, but also torqing it down back to 335NM.
Most torgue wrenches dont go to 335NM, you can get extenders that will work i suppose. Its cheaper then getting a new torque wrench (a propper one, not a homedepot one)
Do not drive with a loose nut (did i say that), you may damage youre bearing.
Also, don't hammer your shaft......... I mean, DRIVESHAFT. You can also damage your bearing (more likely then driving with a loose nut).
Get NEW nuts, and make sure you secure them VERY well after re-installing

Do not hammer a screwdriver between the tranny and the driveshaft. It will come out for sure, but you might damage the seal in the tranny, or the flat bit where the seal seals onto the driveshaft. Also, dont wiggle the screwdriver between the tranny and the shaft for the same reasons.

Basicly, you realy, realy dont need a hammer for this job, though its tempting to pick up it up if it doesnt go as expected.

Also, take notice that the splines on the driveshaft where the spider is sitting with the bearings on, are VERY sharp!

Oh, and don't forget to drain the tranny oil first. OTOH, don't bother, it will come out anyway ;)
 
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In general, a hammer is good for any work on a dog house but not on a car. :D

Someone told me he had big difficulties getting the axle out of the bearing housing even with a bearing puller as it was rusted excessively. Someone else on this board revealed his trick by loosing the nut during a very short drive (not actually) and throttle-peaks to break it free. But as you say the wheel bearing won't like it.

As for the gearbox seal I don't care because while being there I'd change it anyway. :wink:

Good hint on the metal binds. I had a closer look at my spare parts from the US and they're indeed different. Maybe that's the reason they cost 6 times more in Europe than in the US. :D

Ups, sorry, I forgot the picture in my last post.
 
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I couldn't beleive what binds they gave me at the Honda dealer.
I wouldn't fit those on a Fiat Multipla..... otoh....i would ;)
 
gdae said:
This isn’t a hey-gimme-a-free-carfax deal. I’d pay actual money for a copy or a photocopy of that, or would greatly appreciate an e-link or a clue.

Thanks, guys
Click to expand...

No Problem, I get $1,160.63 per copy:D:D:D

Good Luck with the repair:).

Regards,
LarryB
 
The job REALLY sucks. I had the hardest time with removing the CV shaft nut and getting the CV shaft back in. I couldn't sleep for 2 days because my chest and arms hurt so bad.
 
Well, I recently did this job a few weeks ago and it was quite reasonable.

You do need 3/4 inch drive sockets and a big torque wrench.

Helpful hints (not really covered:

To remove axle nut:
1. remove right rear wheel. Prepare axle nut for removal by either cutting or tapping the indent out
2. remove hub cap from right rear wheel, install wheel and lower car back to ground.
3. Loosen axle nut with 3/4" socket, 5" extension and a large breaker bar.

To remove axle:
1. use two screwdrivers on opposite side of the inner axle.
2. Detach and drop the inner side of the axle first. I did the opposite and it was stupid....I managed to do it, but it was time consuming and stressful.

On install:
I kept the hub cap off for a couple of days so I could watch the axle nut and make sure it didn't move.

***

I picked off a nice rebuilt axle from ebay for $300, which makes the job go really quick. A couple of hours tops.
 
Just for those now thinking about doing it themselves: The description above is a very short draft of the labor involved. :)
 
On my "oldest" 91 NSX, the splines were really rusted. And this is a garage queen! I can't imagine using a puller. I beat the things out, as use to be the preferred method:wink:.

If beating, make sure to not use hammers:rolleyes:....., but if you do, use safety glasses.

Not sure why the pic shows the intermediate shaft out as well. Don't have to do that to change the boots.

Newer style wheels will not accomodate some sockets through the hubcap hole, so I used older style wheel which has more room.

Even a cheap impact wrench removed the nuts on my car, no prob.

I take it you no longer need a copy of the article?
 
NSXBill2 said:
Not sure why the pic shows the intermediate shaft out as well. Don't have to do that to change the boots.
Click to expand...

The pic should just show where to loosen the suspension arms instead of pulling the ball joints. :)
 
NSXBill2 said:
On my "oldest" 91 NSX, the splines were really rusted. And this is a garage queen! I can't imagine using a puller. I beat the things out, as use to be the preferred method:wink:.

If beating, make sure to not use hammers:rolleyes:....., but if you do, use safety glasses.

Not sure why the pic shows the intermediate shaft out as well. Don't have to do that to change the boots.

Newer style wheels will not accomodate some sockets through the hubcap hole, so I used older style wheel which has more room.

Even a cheap impact wrench removed the nuts on my car, no prob.

I take it you no longer need a copy of the article?
Click to expand...

Well ... actually ... I do. LarryB's email was bigger than the 10meg limit at work and it didn't come through.
I hope there's no size limit on an AT&T/Yahoo accouts. I have one of those.
:redface:
 
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