CV boot leaking but not ripped

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

If the CV grease is already leaking, that means the grease has broken down and your boot is getting old and hardened even though it may look fine.

It’s not the boot band getting loose but it’s the rubber boot getting set where the band sits and no longer allowing the band to make tight contact against the joint housing.
Once this happened, there is no point in re-using the OEM band because you will get the same result.

For a temporary measure, you can use aftermarket stainless cable reel of boot band using double loop method.
If you buy the OEM boot repair kit, it comes with this double loop style boot band.

You could try cleaning as much old grease as possible without taking the drive shaft out but considering the mess and awkward position that you may need to take during the process, I would rather take the shaft off the car and do it properly.
Some examples; http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=37

Kaz

 

[AEROBUFF]

Thanks for the help. Sounds like the best course of action is to remove the axle and replace both the inner and outer boots.

 

[jwmelvin]

I'm regreasing my cv joints and now that I go to put the new bands on, I don't see how the free end of the strap stays secure once folded over. I have the tensioning tool but the bands that came with the boot kits from Honda don't have locking tabs.

Any advice would be most appreciated.

 

[Jinks]

Are the doorman half boot kits worth the money saved without axle removal? I recall seeing a for sale thread with doorman half boots which couple together. Any thoughts on these? Or should one just pony up. The aftermarket ones are electric blue which is kind of a turn off but if it saves buckets of cash, why not? I feel though, it may not be worth it?
Any opinions on this? TIA

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Double wrap the new band. After the band is through the end, tighten it by pulling it through an additional 3/8 inch, using the tool, then fold it over. I use a small hammer to crush the loop, then cut the band. There is a TSB from Honda on this process, I may be able to locate it. Also in the WIKI KAz posted a repair process that is very complete.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[jwmelvin]

Double wrap the new band. After the band is through the end, tighten it by pulling it through an additional 1/4 inch, using the tool, then fold it over. I use a small hammer to crush the loop, then cut the band.

Thanks Larry. So the free end, once folded over and hammered down, just sits on top of the hammered-down loop? If that's it, then I'm good to go. I thought I looked at Kaz's posts but will go back and see if I missed this detail.

Edit: here is the post where @Kaz-kzukNA1 shows the process. I just felt uneasy about having the folded over end sit on top of the loop without some tabs holding it down. I guess that is okay.

 

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Not the best photo so please try to zoom into it.
Hope you can see what I mean below....

After using the hose band tool to tighten the band, you will point the end 90deg up.
Then, use centre punch to 'stake/lock' the free end.

Now secure the free end by folding it over the clip and tapping it down with the hammer.
This is important especially for the inboard joint of the right drive shaft otherwise, you will get metal to metal contact noise while rotating the wheel as the folded hose band over the clip is too thick for the small gap against the heat shield.

Kaz

 

[jwmelvin]

Now secure the free end by folding it over the clip and tapping it down with the hammer.

Thank you Kaz and Larry. I was missing a few parts: double wrapping the band; center punching the loop; and that folding the end over is sufficient to retain it. I'm glad a took a break last night! You guys are great.

 

[ftuhy]

Are the doorman half boot kits worth the money saved without axle removal? I recall seeing a for sale thread with doorman half boots which couple together. Any thoughts on these? Or should one just pony up. The aftermarket ones are electric blue which is kind of a turn off but if it saves buckets of cash, why not? I feel though, it may not be worth it?
Any opinions on this? TIA

They can save a lot of work, but ----- you can't remove all the old grease, clean the joint, and pre-load the bearings with grease as you would with a full disassembly. So, unless the grease is very new and you are simply replacing a boot that was cut without any dirt getting into the joint, I'd recommend going the much more expensive route. Of course, if the grease is old or you don't remove all the contaminants, the inexpensive job could wind up costing even more money.:frown:

I've used the Dorman half-boot kits on front wheel drive cars nearly 30 years ago. I had the car for about another 5 years with no issues. They work well if you are essentially keeping everything surgically clean. The "glue" is actually a solvent that re-flows the boot material. It does a good job but the tiniest spec of dirt can mess up the bond.