CV boot leaking but not ripped

[hlweyl]

The right hand inside cv boot does not have any tears but is indeed leaking. A friend who is a GM mechanic confirmed this, he said that somehow the metal clamp has lost its tension and is letting grease spew out the fatter end of the boot.

He said that there are universal tensioners(i guess available at a local auto parts store) to deal with this and not to use a big hose clamp. I asked if there were any way to just tighten the clamp on there and he said no.

Anyone have experience with this or suggestions? I did a search and only could find threads with cv boot tears.

 

[j14nsx]

I have just had the same problem. One of the bands had snapped. I got a proper replacement part and put it on very easy. The Honda bands are the correct length and will be be the right tension. Also they come flat and simply fit round the boot so you don't have to remove the driveshaft to slip them over.

 

[hlweyl]

I have just had the same problem. One of the bands had snapped. I got a proper replacement part and put it on very easy. The Honda bands are the correct length and will be be the right tension. Also they come flat and simply fit round the boot so you don't have to remove the driveshaft to slip them over.

thx, did u have to buy a special tool to tension the band?

 

[chudson1549]

thx, did u have to buy a special tool to tension the band?

I had the same problem on my car. I did not buy the band that came with the car while using the same boot. The stock band has a fixed setting on it. We have a leaking boot because of the rubber shinking (per the honda mechanic)from 11 years of use. So. when I ordered the replacement band from honda, I was given an open band that uses the banding tool. This way we could tighten as needed and repacked the boot. No more leak. The tool was only about 6 bucks U.S.
HTH

 

[j14nsx]

For me, no, I did not need a special tool. I guess I got the standard band that just snaps in place.

Mine leaked because the band broke, rather than anything shrinking.

Good to know there is another type though in case of future shrinkage (my wife won't be pleased).

 

[John McCain Racing]

Is it possible to replace the boots without removing the drive shafts? My left rear is leaking a bit so I figure for the $50 that it will cost for the boots and clamps I'll just do both. I got my leak originally after 200 miles on the track

 

[hlweyl]

Is it possible to replace the boots without removing the drive shafts? My left rear is leaking a bit so I figure for the $50 that it will cost for the boots and clamps I'll just do both. I got my leak originally after 200 miles on the track

Not possible to replace the cv boots without removal of the shafts. I called honda and the parts girl said they do not carry any type of universal band for the cv boots (i don't have much confidence in her anyway) so i just bought one from salvo auto parts and installed it. I didn't need a special tool, just wire snips to crimp the band. The only problem i had was the crimped section kept rubbing against the heat shield so i just pried the heat shield several millimeters and that did the trick.... hopefully it will hold up!

 

[1TITENSX]

Not possible to replace the cv boots without removal of the shafts. I called honda and the parts girl said they do not carry any type of universal band for the cv boots (i don't have much confidence in her anyway) so i just bought one from salvo auto parts and installed it. I didn't need a special tool, just wire snips to crimp the band. The only problem i had was the crimped section kept rubbing against the heat shield so i just pried the heat shield several millimeters and that did the trick.... hopefully it will hold up!

Just noticed my inner driver's side boot is torn and I'll probably go ahead and maybe replace all four for preventive maintenance. I found out that someone makes a "split boot" for the NSX for only the outer CV boots. I am not sure if someone makes it fot the inner CV boot...has anyone used one of these before ? If these work, they can save countless dollars. I have never seen one of these before and I started reminiscing that I wish I had known about these during my Honda Prelude days

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The reason the boot leaks although the band and boot are intact is due to the grease braking down after so many years. The grease pours out like warn ice cream. Actually the boot is OK. But once you remove the shaft just get a boot kit 42017-SL0-000 (about $20), it comes with new grease, new band, and new axle nut. Yes there is a tool, it is a KD 3191 and is pretty cheap, Got it at NAPA out here. It is worth it since you can set the tension of the band properly and the band will lay flat and not interfere with the heat shield.

BE CAREFUL when you take the CV apart, do not mix up the three bearings, they should go back as they came out. It is a big greasy mess...........LOL. Nice to have a helper the first time. The bearing plates are chamfered and ONLY go back in one way, and it can be a real PITA the first few times.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[NsX_R]

Do I need to put more grease in if I just replace the band ?

 

[nsx24]

"Do I need to put more grease in if I just replace the band ? "

I think it would be a good idea to repack, once you tighten the band there is no getting back into it.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The kit comes with the proper amount of grease. Clean out the old grease and squirt all of the new grease in there, you will be good to go.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[1TITENSX]

Just noticed my inner driver's side boot is torn and I'll probably go ahead and maybe replace all four for preventive maintenance. I found out that someone makes a "split boot" for the NSX for only the outer CV boots. I am not sure if someone makes it fot the inner CV boot...has anyone used one of these before ? If these work, they can save countless dollars. I have never seen one of these before and I started reminiscing that I wish I had known about these during my Honda Prelude days

I just looked online and all four CV boots are the same. If this is the case, the "split boot" will work for all four. Still looking for someones experience on the usage of this type of boot.

More info:

SPLIT-BOOTS

A split-boot doesn’t require axle removal and can be installed with the shaft and joints in place. It’s a quick fix approach that saves a lot of labor and time. But the boot seam must be carefully glued to assure a leak-free bond, and the boot must not be disturbed while the adhesive cures (typically 30 to 60 minutes or more depending on the temperature and application).

There is now a new type of split-boot on the market with a "zip-lock" type seam. This boot is sold under various names in the aftermarket, including the "CV Easy" boot. This type of boot requires no glue and is held together by the locking action of the seam. The only drawback is that the seam is rather difficult to squeeze together. But once joined, it holds very tightly and won’t come apart.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

1TITENSX,

Have you used this type boot before?

HTH,
LarryB

 

[hlweyl]

I'd be interested to see the success rate for the "split" boot.

 

[1TITENSX]

1TITENSX,

Have you used this type boot before?

HTH,
LarryB

No I haven't but I am very much interested in the one with the "zip-lock" seam.

Here are some comments on the split boot located on the link below. They introduce 4 drawbacks on why not to use it but don't seem very deterring. What do you guys think?

http://www.raxles.com/spitboot.htm

 

[Larry Bastanza]

My big question would be longevity. It is not very difficult to remove the axle and replace the boot, so for me, if someone brings me their car, I do not want to see it back again for a boot fix any time soon.

Seems like too much downside risk to me. Also it is not clear to me, lets say you are doing the inner right joint, how you are going to fill the joint with new grease, and keep it all together while it is perfectly clean, dry, and undisturbed for a hour to have it seal right.

I'll stick with the Honda part myself

JMO,
LarryB

 

[1TITENSX]

My big question would be longevity. It is not very difficult to remove the axle and replace the boot, so for me, if someone brings me their car, I do not want to see it back again for a boot fix any time soon.

Seems like too much downside risk to me. Also it is not clear to me, lets say you are doing the inner right joint, how you are going to fill the joint with new grease, and keep it all together while it is perfectly clean, dry, and undisturbed for a hour to have it seal right.

I'll stick with the Honda part myself

JMO,
LarryB

Totally agree, but I wonder if the "zip-lock" one will work This one sounds better than the one that uses glue.

 

[dlongo]

Hi everyone. I was getting the NSX ready for NSXPO and noticed my driver side boot is throwing grease. Not torn but the band is gone. To make things worse, the grease coming out seems broken down and almost watery, bleech! I'd like to regrease the joints and replace the boots before I leave for NSXPO. Is the CV boot kit unique for the NSX in any way, or is it a generic honda/acura part? I ask because my dealer typically does not stock NSX parts and I need it quick.

 

[John McCain Racing]

Hi everyone. I was getting the NSX ready for NSXPO and noticed my driver side boot is throwing grease. Not torn but the band is gone. To make things worse, the grease coming out seems broken down and almost watery, bleech! I'd like to regrease the joints and replace the boots before I leave for NSXPO. Is the CV boot kit unique for the NSX in any way, or is it a generic honda/acura part? I ask because my dealer typically does not stock NSX parts and I need it quick.

I know that Dali Racing keeps them in stock most of the time

 

[AEROBUFF]

I am trying to chase down a leak on the back passenger side of the engine. I crawled under the car today to check things out and believe that I could have this issue. I found some whitish/brownish grease/oil residue on the back side of the oil pan. The half shaft heat shield is also full of the same residue. I checked the boot and could not find any rips. All of the residue seems to line up with the fat end of the CV joint boot. Is the whitish/brownish grease/oil residue most likely grease for the CV joint? I cleaned the whole area as best I could, so hopefully that should help narrow it down. Is there anything else I should check? The drive shaft is throwing it everywhere, so I am having a little narrowing it down. In case it matters, I have a 1997 NA2.

 

[ftuhy]

The grease in the half shaft boots can degrade with time & temperature, to the point that it more easily leaks from the boot. Or, the clamp could have loosened or the boot can be degrading or cracked. From the color you describe, it sure sounds like that is your leak.

Is the boot/clamp factory original? The factory original boots on mine were starting to slightly leak this past year at 72,000 miles.

 

[AEROBUFF]

Thanks for the help. The boot looks like it is in really good shape, so I am guessing the clamp has come loose over time. Can the CV joints be re-greased and re-clamped without removing the axle?

The grease in the half shaft boots can degrade with time & temperature, to the point that it more easily leaks from the boot. Or, the clamp could have loosened or the boot can be degrading or cracked. From the color you describe, it sure sounds like that is your leak.

Is the boot/clamp factory original? The factory original boots on mine were starting to slightly leak this past year at 72,000 miles.

 

[JD Cross]

I finally replaced my pass. side boot after 105 k miles.
Even after rebanding, it just kept leaking.
Best to do the boot replacement before it's an axle replacement.

 

[ftuhy]

Thanks for the help. The boot looks like it is in really good shape, so I am guessing the clamp has come loose over time. Can the CV joints be re-greased and re-clamped without removing the axle?

Re-clamping without removing the axle can be done (but possibly tricky to stake the clamp for optimum tightness). Re-greasing without removing the axle means you don't get to fully inspect the bearings & races, and you don't remove all the old grease out of the bearings and grooves. While removing the axles involves a lot of grunt work prying things apart, its probably worth the effort.

In the next week or two I'll be changing the oil on mine. While its up in the air, I'll check to see if the new boots have leaked any grease after 5,000 miles.

UPDATE: A little slow on posting this, but all boots and surrounding areas are dry as a bone with the new boots.