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CT "True Tension" belt tensioner, fixes belt slippage!

Trev,
Don't cut the bolt!!!!!! :eek:

The hole is a 3/8" x 16TPI, it should be through tapped. I just checked and the last batch did not get completely tapped, the first thread is not a complete profile! All you need to do is run a tap through from the back side and clean out that first thread.

When the block is installed, the side with the round over detail should be facing away from the plate the block clamps onto(toward the engine, away from the belt!) This will give a flatter surface for the pulley step down bushing to rest against.

If you bought a tensioner block, and have a threading issue, and you don't have a tap, PM me and I will send one to you!

Dave
 
Trev has cut two bolts, one for me and one for best bud Ed.
Its simple and fun, reminds me of tinbashing and cutting 3/8" ready rod to hang out ductwork..........
I needed my block and its done, no problem.
Its easy and fast or one can go to home depot and get another cap screw or nut and bolt house.
I actually built new rotors for my whipple yesterday afternoon as well.
Now, for those not so mechanically inclined.......see Dave.
Trev
 
Question:

When installing with this fixed tensioner should I be setting the static belt tension the same (able to twist belt 1/4 turn by hand mid-way between SC and next idler) or a little looser?

I ask thinking maybe the recommended tension I've noted was higher than now necessary (with fixed tensioner) to keep the belt tight enough given the old tensioner's give. If anyone's done back to back dynos and found the line between enough tension and not-enough (with this solid tensioner) that would be great info.

Thanks.
 
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For tension, the real answer is it should be just tight enough the belt does not slip. That is a pretty esoteric answer though...and it takes some trail and error to get it right.

A good starting point is just less than 1/2 twist in the middle of the belt run from the crank pulley up to the idler on the alternator side. You could also follow the tensioning recommendations for the A/C belt, the tension should be the same for a starting point.
 
Dave did you make instructions for this? I am just handing this to my mechanic to do this and I don't want him to be confused about anything like tension. I realize there are pictures here but having a set of instructions they can refer to is certainly helpful.
 
titaniumdave said:
A good starting point is just less than 1/2 twist in the middle of the belt run from the crank pulley up to the idler on the alternator side. You could also follow the tensioning recommendations for the A/C belt, the tension should be the same for a starting point.
Click to expand...

I set my CTSC belt a tad looser than before this tensioner was installed...and my A/C belt is looser than that (with install of your damper shield I tried to set the A/C belt to about the same tension as before the install). After a test drive I'm pretty the A/C belt doesn't slip but I can hear the CTSC belt squeel with a large blip of the throttle (worse than with the old tensioner)...so I guess that was too loose.

If I find a tension that seems appropriate, and a good means to communicate such, I'll report back. I'm thinking it's probably "the same as with regular tensioner" if not "get on a dyno and measure/check."

BTW, it's pretty interesting watching the belt's dynamics when under load/acceleration and when not.
 
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Dave Dave Dave... you've been a bad vendor. :biggrin:
 
Pics side-by-side with removed tensioner...

(I'm not trying to show measurement, ruler is to illustrate difference in spacing between holes. Grime/dirt line in pictures makes it pretty clear how far the tensioner from CT was compressing regularly.)

2963864530_511438b29e.jpg

2963022527_d8c484feef.jpg

2963022841_481ce2b5d4.jpg
 
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If I get this do I need to get a new adjuster bolt? I noticed you guys are showing a different size bolt, mine is like 5/16" and yours looks like 3/8" with a different lock nut.
 
The block comes with new bolts, if yours is the oldest style CT set up, the bolts you have will work fine.

Either way, you are covered.

Dave
 
After all this time, it appears there are no instructions. Seems like a real customer service issue. How difficult could it be to post instructions. I also received no bolts with mine and don't know if I have the "oldest style CT setup". Mine is early but it has at least a second generation manifold.
I still have my block but never installed it. Do we have any concensus as to whether this mod really increases boost and is worth doing? If so, has Comptech fixed their latest design?
 
Dave, are you still selling these?

Is slippage ever an issue on the low boost pulley? I had some slippage before but I tightened it down and I can no longer hear the belt squeal but i'm not sure if it's because i've got it too tight. No idea if it's slipping still. Anyone had any issues on the low boost?
 
Hey all,
I have them in stock if you need a tension block, SOS usually has them too.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any issues, PM or e-mail.

Thanks,
Dave
 
ffffanman said:
Slipping no, never.
Make sure you get a Gator belt with the cross hatched grooves.
We feel its stickier, if you know what I mean.
Trev
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=3128
Click to expand...

Hey Trev,

You wouldn't happen to know the part number for that belt would ya? I have the Whipple High boost SC by Comptech which I think is the same as what you have.

I remember someone posting the part number in a different thread but for some reason I can't find it.:redface:
 
Tools for measuring belt tension:

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2787&location_id=3539
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiVtav7wz2U

or

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=4966&location_id=3006
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYEHvfo8t6A

or

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2265&location_id=2742

Has CT (or a mechanic/tuner with a lot of experience and after testing different settings) ever provided a tension spec in a unit related to on one of these tools...or is "quarter turn with your hands" the best we have?
 

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