Coolant Flush and fill issue HELP!!!

[HITMAN]

I just completed performing the steps within the Service Manual for Coolant Flush and fill, and followed them word for word including removing the cover plate underneath to drain the fluid. I just finshed closing all 4 bleeders, heater cap, radiator, firewall bleeder, and thermostat bleeder. Refilled with 50/50 water and
HONDA-RECOMMENDED antifreeze/coolant, and started engine at idle.

This is where the problem occurs, the radiator cooling fan does not run and the engine begins to smoke. I immediantly turn off the enigne and inspected the coolant tank, which was still at the max level. I could only assume that the thermostat did not open, but not sure why. Retracked my steps and checked the bleeders which had fluid coming from them when loosen again, and then retighten.

Please help if you have any ideas or suggestions.

Thanks!

 

[hlweyl]

Where is the engine smoking from and what does it smell like? Is it coming directly from the engine compartment or from the tailpipes?

 

[HITMAN]

it is coming from the engine compartment in the front of the engine. Does not smell like burning antifreeze, but very hard to tell. The smoke was white coming from the rear and it appeared after 3 to 5 mins running the engine on idle.

Thx!

 

[Briank]

Are you seeing any movement in the temp. gage. Can you feel any warmth in the heater hoses. Does the heater blow warm air.

 

[DanO]

1) do you remember how much 50/50 you were able to put in the system, in quarts?

2) Did you really close the bleeders and then fill, like you said? Or did you fill and THEN close the bleeders in order as the fluid came out like the SM says?

3) how did your engine temp gauge look when it started smoking?

my guess is that there is an air pocket around the water pump which is keeping the fluid from circulating and therefore causing your engine to smoke. You may need to bleed the system and refill the expansion tank several times to solve the problem.

When trying to figure this out, keep an eye on your temp gauge and shut down the engine before it gets too hot. If you're somking oil then it's WAY too hot! Hopefully (and most likely) it's spilled coolant that is burning. Burning coolant has a sweet smell; burning oil has a dreadful "i just fried my engine" smell.

Please keep us informed and good luck!!

DanO

 

[matteni]

Also - it helps to do this on an incline such that you don't have to do the 2 "tube" plugs and it is easier to insure their are no bubbles. Took me "several" hours to do and made a HUGE mess in front of my neighbors the first time I did it.

Thanks Mark B for the incline tip from way back when. Others may have good tips as well - like "bring it to a dealer"

 

[nsxbuilder]

Yo!

Refilled with 50/50 water and HONDA-RECOMMENDED antifreeze/coolant

Just checking, but the Honda Coolant is already mixed and needs no water added. Our all aluminum cooliing systems hate tap water, so if you did that - flush and fill with the good stuff! Even if you used distilled water, do it again. Also, throw in a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter while you're at it.

I had an air pocket at the track that caused engine water temps to soar and took hours to "burp" correctly. Now I do a full fluh and burp every spring just to avoid the problem.

-Ed
www.nsxbuilder.com

 

[HITMAN]

This is why I love this forum, thanks a lot guys for the suggestions. I plan to drain, and bleed the system again, as well play close attantion to the temp gauge after refilling since the last time I was not too concern that I would have a problem. The first bleeding did have a alot of air until the bubbles stop and just fuild came out.

I'll try going back in order:

1) radiator bleed plug.
2) heater pipe bleed cap.
3) water pipe bleed bolt.
4) engine bleed bolt on the thermo cover.

I follow-up on the out come!
Thx!

 

[Larry Bastanza]

HITMAN,

A few things:

As Nick mentions "incline", I get the back end of the car up on stands for this. This is well worth the effort.

No need to drain again, just open up the bleeders until each one runs solid.

Make sure you turn the heat on full. If by chance you do not get heat, then you have an air pocket in the heater core.


HTH,
LarryB

 

[matteni]

As Nick mentions "incline", I get the back end of the car up on stands for this. This is well worth the effort.

I should also note for future newbees reading this to get and always use good jack stands and wheel chucks. Don't want that baby rolling on you - do you?

 

[HITMAN]

That makes sense since I did not have the car elavated high when I bleeded the air out the first time. I'll put the rear up on the stands and chucks in the front tires to avoid explaining to the wife why the NSX is into hear car.

Just to make sure once fuild runs out of the bleeders to a certain point add fuild to max level and run the car on idle and check temp gauge. Also check blower and hoses.

Wife is shopping so perfect time to take over the garage, Thanks!

 

[Taj]

What incline angle or height difference are you talking about?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Taj,

It is beneficial to have the rear end of the car higher then the front for easy bleeding. You want the radiator to be the lowest point. This will make the bleeding process easy and insure you can get the air out, most of the time, without an air pocket.

If you are starting from the beginning, ALWAYS have your climate control set to 90 degrees first, so your water valve is fully open. Turn the car off in this state before you let it cool to do the flush.

In the case is has not been open you may find an air pocket in the heater core. I usually pressurize the system slightly, then open the valve(or rubber grommet on earlier cars) at the top of the heater core to let the air bleed out.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Taj]

Larry,

Thank for the reply.

What I really meant was how high do you actually raise the rear or what is the minimum incline angle? Is 10-12 degree enough?

 

[matteni]

Larry,

Thank for the reply.

What I really meant was how high do you actually raise the rear or what is the minimum incline angle? Is 10-12 degree enough?

I am on a 8-9 deg incline on my driveway and raise the back almost to the top of the jack stands. Basically until the front of the lip is about to touch the driveway.

Difficult part is then concocting a way to "collect" the coolant as you can not fit a pan under it.

BTW - other then the fact that it is poison to animals is auto coolant an environmental problem when it finds it's way into sewers or drains? No flames people - just the facts if you know them as I always try to collect it but always make a mess and end up hosing it off.

 

[DanO]

BTW - other then the fact that it is poison to animals is auto coolant an environmental problem when it finds it's way into sewers or drains?

I don't know about sewers or drains, but when it finds its way into my beer, that really makes me mad!

DanO

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I put my stands up about 15" or so. The same height as if I was working on the car.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[HITMAN]

Sorry for the late reply, laptop went on the fritz! Well I want to thank LarryB, DanO and everyone else that help out with suggestions. Bottom line after elevating the rear of the car and re-bleeding I started to get a lot more air coming out of the bleed caps. LarryB was correct about the thermostat being possibly stuck open, because it took at least two to three hours before I was able to get hot air coming out of the heater and solid fluid running from all bleeders.


Re-added Redline Water Wetter and took it for a spin. Everything looks great.

Thanks again for the help!
HitMan