Clutch is not smooth. What could it be?

Y

ysoslow

Experienced Member
Joined
12 November 2008
Messages
374
Location
Houston
I replaced both the master and slave because the slave was leaking. While I was at it, i also replaced the oem line to SOS steel line. Bleed it correctly with no air. At first the clutch felt good and no more leak. After a few miles in, The clutch got really hard and no longer smooth. It "stutter" going down and up. I sat the car while trying to find out what the problem could be on prime. Through a few threads, some people said it could be air in the there. I drained all the fluid and redo it. Same result after a few miles. The next day, before starting the car, i stepped on the clutch and it felt good. However, right after I started it, it started stuttering as i press down on it. I have no idea what it could be. It was working just fine before replacing the three items.

I also notice that after a few redlines in 2nd or 3rd, the clutch get really soft for awhile.


I'm thinking that one of the 3 items i bought is not good. I will go back with the OEM clutch line first and go from there. What do you guys think?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
 
I doubt it's the new stainless steel line or it's components. If there is no leak from any of that area, then they will not cause the problem you're talking about. Sounds like you still have air in the system. How is the clutch being bled? Also what year is the car and is the clutch stock? When you installed the new slave cylinder, you didn't alter the fork connection or pivot point by accident did you? Again check all your hard line connections are not leaking. I'm betting on air in the system. JMO-ICBW

Al
 
I bled it twice. i used the quick bleeding thingy. i used half the bottle just to make sure there is no more air.
the car is 91 and the clutch is stock but were changed bout 20k ago. I took out the slave again a few days ago and reinstalled to make sure it was correct. Same result. There is no leak at all.
 
Please explain your clutch bleed process in detail.

What's a "quick bleeding thingie"?

Now since you installed the new M/S there is tons of air in the system.
 
i used the speed bleeder.

i sucked all the fluid out. pumped it til all is out. Refilled it and pump til fluid come out. I then install the speed bleeders and start pumping. every 3-4 pump, I check and refill the fluid on the master. I kept on going until half of the tall bottle is used to make sure i bled enough.

- - - Updated - - -

clutch always feel so good when the car is off. when i start it, it's stiff and not smooth anymore. I'm really confused at this point.
 
Hi,

as Larry said, new Master (and Slave) gets you air in the system even after some bleeds,
where you don't see air comming out....

Think of this: The new Master is empty of any oil, and when you first bleed, it will throw out
any air in the path the oil takes, but there will be air in some pockets that are not affected
by the flow... but as you press the pedal, that air will compress and get you erratic clutch
work....

at least this is how i think of it (right Larry?)

Nuno
 
Installed the OEM line and bled it again. Work great so far. An hour work in this chilly weather, but well worth it now that the nsx feel great again
 
Last edited:
I would flush the SOS line with brake parts cleaner and then put some compressed air through it, from both directions, and see if there seems to be any restriction in the line.
Brad
 

Similar threads

jsullyboy
Clutch Pedal Switch A
Replies
2
Views
130
jsullyboy
jsullyboy
jsullyboy
Bleeding Clutch
Replies
2
Views
126
TANTO
TANTO
Fabunoz
Issue going into gears
Replies
7
Views
342
drew
drew
e9coupe
Clutch damper delete - what's your choice?
Replies
11
Views
1K
hkz286
H
jsullyboy
Low Engine Power before 4k RPM
2
Replies
29
Views
678
NSX78__
NSX78__
Back
Top