Clutch interlock

Joined
29 October 2004
Messages
3,026
Location
San Diego, CA (formerly Portland, TX)
It was only a matter of time. I went to start Lucille today and got nothing when I rotated the key to start.
Since I’ve replaced the brake and cruise bumpers, I figured it was the bumper for the clutch interlock. I pulled out the lower panel and removed the interlock wiring connector. I jumpered it and, of course, she cranked and started right up.
I will say a novena before attempting replacement of the bumper button.

May God have mercy on my soul!
 
We love St Ann...
 
Unless you are younger and flexible. I might be inclined to just fashion a more permanent form for the jumper and be done with it. A matching plug that is shorted would be the ideal sanitary arrangement.

All of the Euro cars that I have owned with standard transmissions did not have clutch interlocks. When I purchased the NSX it was the first more modern standard transmission Japanese car that I had driven. I don't recall a clutch interlock on early '70s Datsun 510s or the 240 Z. I remember that when I went to take it for a test drive I could not get it started and the salesman said ' have to disengage the clutch'. Then I remembered that my '80s vintage Honda VF 750 F had a similar interlock on the clutch lever which I by-passed rather shortly after purchasing. None of my earlier motor cycles had this feature. The other clutch and brake switches have mission critical functions that you cannot eliminate. No operational down side to by-passing the clutch starter interlock switch unless you want to remain 100% OEM.
 
Unless you are younger and flexible. I might be inclined to just fashion a more permanent form for the jumper and be done with it. A matching plug that is shorted would be the ideal sanitary arrangement.
That's a great idea. Is there such plug available or perhaps information relating to the parts required to make one? Thx.
 
That's a great idea. Is there such plug available or perhaps information relating to the parts required to make one? Thx.
For the immediate need, I fabricated a short piece of paper clip wrapped with electrical tape, and once inserted into the connector, wrapped all of it with electrical tape to cover any exposed metal. If I go this route, I’ll either tape or zip tie the connector to the switch so that it isn’t moving around.
 
For the immediate need, I fabricated a short piece of paper clip wrapped with electrical tape, and once inserted into the connector, wrapped all of it with electrical tape to cover any exposed metal. If I go this route, I’ll either tape or zip tie the connector to the switch so that it isn’t moving around.
Will I be able to unplug it without taking off the panel? I had difficulty removing the panel years back. thx.
 
Will I be able to unplug it without taking off the panel? I had difficulty removing the panel years back. thx.
I took the lower panel out before even trying. I removed my knee bolster a long time ago, so all I had was the lower panel screws and the thin metal bracket from left to right in the area.
I think the 2 screws to remove the lower panel would give sufficient room to get to the connector. But it is easier to see with everything removed.
 
That's a great idea. Is there such plug available or perhaps information relating to the parts required to make one? Thx.
Try using the contact link at Cycleterminal.com. They specialize in wiring for Japanese motorcycles; but, he is an NSX owner and member on Prime. Tell him what you want to do and he may be able to supply you with the correct plug body and terminal.
 
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