Check engine light

captngaryr

captngaryr

Experienced Member
Joined
27 July 2009
Messages
425
Location
East Greenwich, RI, USA
OK, so it's a nice day and I'm out for a spin in my "new to me", 03 NSX. I go into a very tight corner at moderate speed, and the check engine light comes on in the middle of the corner. Yikes! There goes my nice day. The performance of the car did not seem to change in any way. So my questions are:

1. Where is the connector to read the codes?
2. Is there a DIY way to read the codes? (LED is series with a resistor, etc.)
3. Any guesses as what I should do next besides taking the car to my local Acura dealer and bending over.

I'm an electrical engineer, so you can talk technical concerning things electrical and I am quite proficient mechanically.

Thanks for any help you can provide...

Gary
 
Gary, I just resolve my CHECK ENGINE LIGHT today. I borrowed the code reader from O'Reilly Auto Parts or other autoparts stores should have it and read the code on my NA1 NSX. A place in the NSX to read the code is left side under the glove compartment. Once you get the code, you should be able to find some answer on prime here.

Here is the code I received:

Check Engine Code: P0420
Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

I hope this help lead you to resolve your NSX issue :smile:
 
Gary,

There is also a no tools needed route, see: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/trouble_codes.htm

While the ODBII reader is nice, its just as easy to read out the codes using the MIL light as described above. As a EE, you are qualified to strip a piece of wire instead of using a paper clip to short out the blue connector.:biggrin: (as a EE myself, I can make that wise-guy remark.)

The readout is one or two digits. The first digit is slow flashes of the light. The second digit is faster flashes. The pattern will repeat. The FAQ above and the manual refer to the two digits as a code & sub-code.

A search should have gotten you to the above link. However, the Acura/Honda jargon is MIL not CEL, so if you searched on CEL you would not have found it.
 
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Frank,
Great! I thought there ought to be a way to read the code by blinking a light, but didn't know the paper clip trick. Is the MIL light the "Check Engine Light" on the dash cluster?

I can't imagine what going around a sharp corner can have to do with a "Check Engine Light", but perhaps it's just an incredible coincidence.

Thanks,
Gary
 
Gary,

MIL = CEL light. On my '96 its yellow & in the classic shape of an engine, but the lettering in it says MIL, not CEL. Just a Honda nomenclature for the same thing.

If you go to the Wheels & Wings in Connecticut on Sunday (9/13), I can even show you how to do it. (just bring the trouble code list from the FAQ)

Frank
 
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Frank,
The Wheels & Wings event sounds very cool! Unfortunately, I have other committments and probably won't be able to make it. I'm not sure it's a great idea to drive that far with the CEL light on, anyway. I'm coming from RI. I think I can figure out the MIL stuff. I'll give it a try tonight and let you know how I make out.

Gary
 
OK, so I did the paper clip thing! Yes, I really did use a paper clip! I'm so ashamed! I'll probably loose my EE license! Now I got a bunch of blinky lights. Hmmm! Here's what I see.

The CEL light blinks 9 long blinks
then repeats
The ABS light blinks 1 long then 2 short
followed by 1 long and 7 shorts.
then repeats.

I don't know how that corresponds to the list of trouble codes provided. Can anyone help?
 
Apparently the two lights are unrelated. I think the 9 blinks on the CEL indicate a bad or intermittent CYP (camshaft) sensor. That doesn't sound very good (at all), especially since it is under the timing belt. The blinks on the ABS indicate two intermittent wheel sensors. Do I have that right? At this point, should I just reset the codes and see what happens? If the sensors are intermittent, will I do any damage driving the car? The car will be due for a timing belt replacement next year. Should I just advance the process and get both done now (uggh)? What is the likelihood that the problem is an intermittent connector or cable rather than a bad sensor? So many questions!

Gary
 
If it was me, and the car is running as it should - as you stated, I would pull the clock fuze and reset the ECU. Then I would go out for that spirited drive again and see if it comes back. It could be just a gremlins last breath and be over. Ah, The Audacity of Hope - sound familiar? Good Luck!
 
GAry,

Definitely try the reset first.

If that doesn't work, try the following as a start:

For the MIL (engine Malfunction Indicator Light) = 9 (crankshaft position sensor), I'd start with checking connector C155. Disconnect and re-connect it, making sure it clicks in place. According to the '96 ETM manual, its an 8-pin gray connector just to the right of the red +12V cable on the top of the alternator.

I think your ABS code is a 7 - 2 (there is no 2 - 7), which is indicating problems with the ABS solenoid for the left front wheel. See pages 19-46 and 19-57 of the '96 service manual. But there should be 1 to 3 Ohms resistance between pins 1 & 2 and between pins 2 & 3 of connector C310. There are 4 ABS solenoid connectors below and in front of the ABS reservoir. Viewed from the front of the car and looking under the hood, C310 is the left rear solenoid. I'd do the electrical check plus make sure the connector is seated with a click. Make sure the other three connectors are also firmly seated.

There is also a fail-safe relay that could be defective. (pg 19-58).

As a WAG, did you hit a bump going through the corner? That could have bounced a relay contact and caused a trouble code.

In any case, I hope the simple reset works. But, I'd also try disconnecting and re-seating the above connectors as an extra measure of possible insurance.

Check the manual on line (access had been flaky recently). If needed I can scan a few pages from my paper manual. (PM me scanned pages are needed)
 
Hi Frank,
Yes, as I recall the corner was kind of bumpy, so I was also thinking about checking for intermittent connectors. The problem is finding them and you have been a big help getting me started there. I did the reset this morning, and when I started the engine, the CEL did not return, so that's a good sign. I didn't take the car out for a spirited drive as the weather here in RI is rainy and lousy, so I don't like to take my baby out in the rain. Perhaps tomorrow, I can take her out for a spin.

The ABS codes were 1-2 and 1-7, which are (2) intermittent wheel sensors. the way I read them. They, of course could be loose or corroded connectors as well.

I bought a Acrobat copy of the service manual on E-Bay. I gave up trying to download a copy from the link on NSXprime. I haven't been able to find a copy of the electrical manual yet, so I may have to tap into your resources, if I am unable to find one.

Thank you for all your help, and I will keep you all abreast of my progress. As an NSX newbie (3 weeks old), I'm a little intimidated about taking things apart, especially when I don't know where half the stuff is.

Gary
03' NSX-T, Silverstone, Cantrell Headers, ACR Exhaust, etc.
 
Hi

I have seen the check engine light or was it the cat light sometimes. Well something lit up.

There are two reasons for this. The car has been washed or parked in wet gras and there is moist on the O2 sensor. The car goes into "safemode".

I have also seen the light come on where the engine is not into "safemode".

What I have done to get everything back to normal is to pull the main fuse for approx 30 seconds.

I have a 91. But maybe you have the same thing on yours.

Regards
 
Well, as Paul Harvey would say "Now the rest of the story"! As mentioned in Post #8 I had 9 blinks. I assumed a code of 9. Notice I didn't say I had 9 long blinks or 9 short blinks, just 9 blinks. That's the key! It occurred to me that a code of 90 would have 9 blinks also (9 long and 0 short). Guess what? 90 indicates a pressure leak in the tank or evaporative emission system. So I checked my fuel cap. It was loose! I feel like a dummy, but a happy one. I'd much rather have a loose fuel cap than a bad camshaft sensor. Thanks for all your help, even if it was wasted on a stupid assumption. Arrrgh!:rolleyes:

Gary

'03 NSX-T, Silverstone, Cantrell Headers, Arc Exhaust, etc.
 
This is not the first time I've had this happen on a Honda, and I still didn't get it. Embarrassing! It takes a while before the computer registered the loose cap. I guess it might be waiting for the pressure to build up in the tank over time, and when it doesn't, it lights the light??? All I know is I just went for long ride (100+ miles) and the CEL didn't return. Halleluia!

Gary
'03 NSX-T, Silverstone, Cantrell Headers, ARC Exhaust, etc.
 

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