My car started missing at various RPM, but mainly when applying a fair amount of throttle. I read that it may be the coil packs and wanted to trouble shoot them. I removed and cleaned them, reinstalled and still had the same symptoms. I did the resistance check per the manual and they all were within speck. I put in a new fuel filter, air filter and new plugs and now the car won’t start at all. It acts like it has no spark. The car wouldn’t start after installing the plugs and before the new fuel filter. Any help would great be appreciated.
Car Wont Start
- Thread starter Michael Barlin
- Start date
OK,
It can only be two things, fuel or spark missing. Listen to hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds when you first turn the key to "On" If you hear it, Do you smell fuel after cranking a while? If you pull a plug do you see or smell fuel on the end?
If so, most likely you are having spark issues. I would remove one coil and use a spark tester to test it, or pull the fuel pump fuse, install a plug in the coil end and ground the plug threads. Crank it over and see if you have spark.
If spark is fine, then you really need a fuel pressure gauge to evaluate the fuel system, but I would review the service manual in this area, since there are a few different ways it can screw up, you will need to check a few electrical things, like main relay, etc.
HTH,
LarryB
It can only be two things, fuel or spark missing. Listen to hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds when you first turn the key to "On" If you hear it, Do you smell fuel after cranking a while? If you pull a plug do you see or smell fuel on the end?
If so, most likely you are having spark issues. I would remove one coil and use a spark tester to test it, or pull the fuel pump fuse, install a plug in the coil end and ground the plug threads. Crank it over and see if you have spark.
If spark is fine, then you really need a fuel pressure gauge to evaluate the fuel system, but I would review the service manual in this area, since there are a few different ways it can screw up, you will need to check a few electrical things, like main relay, etc.
HTH,
LarryB
I am not hearing the fuel pump or smelling fuel.
- Joined
- 7 March 2004
- Messages
- 120
Just had these problems. Replaced relay and car worked for a week. Problem started again. Would crank but not start.
This time it was not the relay, it was the ignigion switch.
How to diagnose:
Placed a friends known working relay in.. no change. (Should carry a spare).
Sprayed carb cleaner into TB opening. Car started and died. Knew it was lack of fuel. Next, bypased the fuel resistor with paper clip would not start. (it is located on top of the engine on pass, side by fire wall. I believe this would not matter anyway since resistor is bypased during starting.) Questioned fuel pump allthough I knew it was rare to go out. Ran lead from 30 amp keyed fuse box terminal in engine bay to fuel pump side of resistor plug. Car started right up. Knew no power was the problem. I drove home and changed out the ignition switch (20min) fixed problem. All this was diagnosed in a parking lot at night in dress clothes where I had to leave it after lunch.
I now believe the ignition switch was the original intermitent problem. and messing with the relay (banging on it) caused it to go out. 112k miles ready to replace.
Remember if car won't start two main things everybody talks about are relay and ignition switch. Thanks NSX Prime!
This time it was not the relay, it was the ignigion switch.
How to diagnose:
Placed a friends known working relay in.. no change. (Should carry a spare).
Sprayed carb cleaner into TB opening. Car started and died. Knew it was lack of fuel. Next, bypased the fuel resistor with paper clip would not start. (it is located on top of the engine on pass, side by fire wall. I believe this would not matter anyway since resistor is bypased during starting.) Questioned fuel pump allthough I knew it was rare to go out. Ran lead from 30 amp keyed fuse box terminal in engine bay to fuel pump side of resistor plug. Car started right up. Knew no power was the problem. I drove home and changed out the ignition switch (20min) fixed problem. All this was diagnosed in a parking lot at night in dress clothes where I had to leave it after lunch.
I now believe the ignition switch was the original intermitent problem. and messing with the relay (banging on it) caused it to go out. 112k miles ready to replace.
Remember if car won't start two main things everybody talks about are relay and ignition switch. Thanks NSX Prime!
The only other thing is a bad ECU. Reseat the connectors on the ECU.
Yellow Rose
Suspended
- Joined
- 22 November 2001
- Messages
- 2,256
Other Options
People are quick to point the finger at the main relay as the culprit, which is not always at fault. While this is a relatively inexpensive component to replace and easy to access, I have found that this "universal solution" to difficulty starting problems is not always correct. Ditto that for the ignition switch.
There are at least two other items that need to considered - igniter module and injectors resistor.
People are quick to point the finger at the main relay as the culprit, which is not always at fault. While this is a relatively inexpensive component to replace and easy to access, I have found that this "universal solution" to difficulty starting problems is not always correct. Ditto that for the ignition switch.
There are at least two other items that need to considered - igniter module and injectors resistor.
Well it was a bad fuel pump. Thanks for the advice.
That makes total sense...glad you were able to find out that is was the fuel pump...where and how are you getting it fixed? I have heard some people are directly "hot-wiring" the fuel pump to the battery in order to give the max amount of juice available to the pump.
I have heard some people are directly "hot-wiring" the fuel pump to the battery in order to give the max amount of juice available to the pump.
I think you have been mis-informed. This would not be a very good thing to do. There is no more "juice" to be had, just elimination of all the safety features Honda built in, not a very good idea. Now if the car is FI, then other mods to the fuel system may prevail
.
HTH,
LarryB
I think you have been mis-informed. This would not be a very good thing to do. There is no more "juice" to be had, just elimination of all the safety features Honda built in, not a very good idea. Now if the car is FI, then other mods to the fuel system may prevail
.HTH,
LarryB
- Joined
- 7 March 2004
- Messages
- 120
There is more "juice" to be had to the fuel pump, although it probably only makes it run rich. The fuel pump voltage is reduced during normal driving by the fuel pump resistor. It is 6 or 9 volts instead of 12. When I had mine hot wired to get home, it seemed to have more low end torque, but I don't know.
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