Camshaft Plug replacement

sorry about this dumb question... but what is the difference between a cam-seal and a cam-plug?

Not dumb at all, I understand the cam-plug on the left side, the cam-seal on the right side (TB) of the engine.

3 hours: it's maybe something like 3 hours if you've already demounted the TB.
 
Cam Plugs are about 3-4 hours(including valve clearance check/adjustment).

Cam Seals are much longer then that. As stated above Cam Seals require removal of the timing belt.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Cam Plugs are about 3-4 hours(including valve clearance check/adjustment).

Cam Seals are much longer then that. As stated above Cam Seals require removal of the timing belt.

Regards,
LarryB

Larry,

How do you change the cam plugs without removing the TB?

Regards,
Thomas
 
Larry,

How do you change the cam plugs without removing the TB?

Regards,
Thomas

Hi Thomas!!

You will only need to raise the cams about 12mm or so to get the cam plug out and a new one back in. I have a tool I made that goes across the four "cam holders" to hold them down. Once I mount the tool (crossbar) I remove all the bolts from the "cam pipes" and remove these. Then to raise the cam holders(and cams) I just slowly release the tool to allow the cam holders to raise up enough to get the cam up and the cam plugs out and back in place.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Hi Thomas!!

You will only need to raise the cams about 12mm or so to get the cam plug out and a new one back in. I have a tool I made that goes across the four "cam holders" to hold them down. Once I mount the tool (crossbar) I remove all the bolts from the "cam pipes" and remove these. Then to raise the cam holders(and cams) I just slowly release the tool to allow the cam holders to raise up enough to get the cam up and the cam plugs out and back in place.

HTH,
LarryB

Hi Larry!

Good idea! But I think it's too complicated for me especially because of the tool required. I think we do this on my engine as a preventative task during the TB job.
I know of a mechanic who did a single-ended (not double like the OEM) plug out of aluminium with one o-ring. Due to the single-ended design one plug can be changed within 5 minutes. But due to the same reason I don't trust them fully because a single-ended plug can fall off under vibration as the inner end is preventing that fully. A friend of mine has these installed and we'll see how reliable they are.
 
To Rob and all the contributed, very good write up and description.

Thanks! Too bad the pics dont show up anymore :redface:

RON98, send me those pics and I will host them no problem. Thx!
 
yes i need to take care of this pictures :(

i still got them up on my server just issues with some config stuff.
 
yes i need to take care of this pictures :(

i still got them up on my server just issues with some config stuff.

send me the pictures and I'll post them for u for FREE :D
 
I've offered but Mr RON98 is MIA again ;) *sigh*
 
I figure I will give this thread a bump since at least one of my cam plugs is apparently leaking at a measurable rate.

I was quoted ~$1200 by the dealer to get it done (fair price??). As usuall, this has motivated me to take a serious look at doing this myself in a couple of months.

So if I understand correctly:

-remove Valve cover and upper timing cover
-zip tie belt to cam gear (is this necessary with the Larry B. method?)
-use plate attached to VC bolt-holes or soemthing across the middle of the cams to keep them from coming completely out.
-loosen cam enough to get clearance to remove plugs
-reverse process, do not use goo on plug.
 
I figure I will give this thread a bump since at least one of my cam plugs is apparently leaking at a measurable rate.

I was quoted ~$1200 by the dealer to get it done (fair price??). As usuall, this has motivated me to take a serious look at doing this myself in a couple of months.

So if I understand correctly:

-remove Valve cover and upper timing cover
-zip tie belt to cam gear (is this necessary with the Larry B. method?)
-use plate attached to VC bolt-holes or soemthing across the middle of the cams to keep them from coming completely out.
-loosen cam enough to get clearance to remove plugs
-reverse process, do not use goo on plug.

Bump!
 
I figure I will give this thread a bump since at least one of my cam plugs is apparently leaking at a measurable rate.

I was quoted ~$1200 by the dealer to get it done (fair price??). As usuall, this has motivated me to take a serious look at doing this myself in a couple of months.

So if I understand correctly:

-remove Valve cover and upper timing cover
-zip tie belt to cam gear (is this necessary with the Larry B. method?)
-use plate attached to VC bolt-holes or soemthing across the middle of the cams to keep them from coming completely out.
-loosen cam enough to get clearance to remove plugs
-reverse process, do not use goo on plug.

That price seem high, and the reason I say that is because usually when an owner is having their water pump and timing belt done, they also have their valves adjusted and their cam plugs replaced. Once you're in there, get everything done. So, $1,200 for just the cam plugs seems high when considering the cost of the total package of TB/WP, and valve adjustment.

I had mine replaced when I did my major service. They weren't leaking, but I still had them replaced.
 
I had Barn Man do the cam plugs and it in no way cost $1200. That said, if you are due for a T-belt job in the near future, it'd probably be best to just knock it out then.

I had the SOS billet plugs installed (probably overkill, but whatever) and not a drip in the 5k or so miles I've put on the car since.

If you can find a private NSX-specialist mechanic near you, that's the way to go IMO (if you're not going to tackle it yourself). I'm afraid I wouldn't know who to suggest in or around Deutschland though.
 
... I was quoted ~$1200 by the dealer...

Was it Harper's? Those guys look at the book and multiply things by at least 4. They wanted $400 to flush my coolant!!!! I told them Honda will do it for $70 and that they could go (*&^ themselves.

My tranny is at Barn Man's as we speak getting a rebuild. His prices are so low it's hard to believe he is making any money on the deal. Great guy and I highly recommend!!!!!
 
Was it Harper's? Those guys look at the book and multiply things by at least 4. They wanted $400 to flush my coolant!!!! I told them Honda will do it for $70 and that they could go (*&^ themselves.

My tranny is at Barn Man's as we speak getting a rebuild. His prices are so low it's hard to believe he is making any money on the deal. Great guy and I highly recommend!!!!!

Yeah, I get along really well with the parts manager at Harper, but the service side definitely takes the "grab your ankles" approach to pricing.
 
I had my cam plugs replaced recently. They were "weeping", but not enough to create any puddles or anything. It was one of those things where I didn't HAVE to get it done, but I did anyway. My cost was $600 out the door which included parts, a valve adjustment, and a free oil change! Took it to Eiffel's Place just north of Atlanta. It was my first trip to Eiffel's and I was pleased with the service. They set me up with a loaner car and had mine done the next afternoon. Eiffel gave me a ride in his SC'd NSX - wow! :eek:
 
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