The entire control arm must be pruchased if you are looking for new ball joints. See the following thread.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37903
I will however start work on replaceable ball joint MOD R&D today.
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Camber Correction Hardware
- Thread starter Thom
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The entire control arm must be pruchased if you are looking for new ball joints. See the following thread.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37903
I will however start work on replaceable ball joint MOD R&D today.
EXCELLENT!!!
There is a real need, let me know if I can help.
There is a real need, let me know if I can help.
Thom,
Great product. You took the exact opposite approach as I did, but with proper results. My mod is already installed and functions well, so I am not on the purchasing list, but will play a bitof devils advacate for questions.....just for fun...
1. When returning the car to a higher ride height, must one remove ths mod to get back to factory specs?
2. When lowered, the upper tire enters the wheel well at an earlier point in the suspension travel, so the concern about tire rubbing might be credible. How much does the mod move the upper tire out (at it's maximum outter arc)?
3. Are you actually machining away material from the upper A-arm in this mod, or just replacing the bushing with a modified one? This is a concern for returnign to stock for resale at a later date...many of us do this?!?!
General note: when a car is lowered (and/or has modified sway, compliance, etc.,), it actually required less agressive settings to achieve similar grip to a stock cars aggresive settings.
Great out of the box thinking Thom, and great product. Again, sorry we missed each other on my visit to Texas....c ya next time!
Great product. You took the exact opposite approach as I did, but with proper results. My mod is already installed and functions well, so I am not on the purchasing list, but will play a bitof devils advacate for questions.....just for fun...
1. When returning the car to a higher ride height, must one remove ths mod to get back to factory specs?
2. When lowered, the upper tire enters the wheel well at an earlier point in the suspension travel, so the concern about tire rubbing might be credible. How much does the mod move the upper tire out (at it's maximum outter arc)?
3. Are you actually machining away material from the upper A-arm in this mod, or just replacing the bushing with a modified one? This is a concern for returnign to stock for resale at a later date...many of us do this?!?!
General note: when a car is lowered (and/or has modified sway, compliance, etc.,), it actually required less agressive settings to achieve similar grip to a stock cars aggresive settings.
Great out of the box thinking Thom, and great product. Again, sorry we missed each other on my visit to Texas....c ya next time!
John, your questions are in black and my answers to your questions are in red.
Great product. You took the exact opposite approach as I did, but with proper results. My mod is already installed and functions well, so I am not on the purchasing list, but will play a bit of devils advocate for questions.....just for fun...
1. When returning the car to a higher ride height, must one remove ths mod to get back to factory specs?
1 Answer: If returning the car to factory ride height the camber hardware would have to be removed and replaced with OEM bushings.
2. When lowered, the upper tire enters the wheel well at an earlier point in the suspension travel, so the concern about tire rubbing might be credible. How much does the mod move the upper tire out (at it's maximum outter arc)?
2 Answer: This is subject to the actual final camber adjusted with the lower control arm cams. When first installed adjusted to nearly zero camber the tire had more than a half inch of margin from the tire edge to the inner edge of the wheel-well. Once the camber was dialed out to ~1° the relief is now well over an inch by eying it. There is plenty of room left. Some NSXers have spacers and might be able to get away without spacers or less spacer material; a case by case bases.
3. Are you actually machining away material from the upper A-arm in this mod, or just replacing the bushing with a modified one? This is a concern for returning to stock for resale at a later date...many of us do this?!?!
3 Answer: There is no material removed from the upper control arm. The OEM bushings are pressed out and fitted with the Patent Pending Camber Correction hardware allowing for the return to OEM with the removal the hardware and re-insertion of OEM bushings.
General note: when a car is lowered (and/or has modified sway, compliance, etc.,), it actually required less aggressive settings to achieve similar grip to a stock cars aggressive settings.
Comment: I would generally agree; gaining a lower center of gravity would place the car in less of a roll characteristic. Additionally, less sidewall in tires, stiffer suspension and sway bars also reduce roll and probably the need for aggressive camber settings. I’ll leave the actual need of camber settings to the race prone.
Great out of the box thinking Thom, and great product. Again, sorry we missed each other on my visit to Texas....c ya next time!
C ya next time, and again thanks for the props.
Great product. You took the exact opposite approach as I did, but with proper results. My mod is already installed and functions well, so I am not on the purchasing list, but will play a bit of devils advocate for questions.....just for fun...
1. When returning the car to a higher ride height, must one remove ths mod to get back to factory specs?
1 Answer: If returning the car to factory ride height the camber hardware would have to be removed and replaced with OEM bushings.
2. When lowered, the upper tire enters the wheel well at an earlier point in the suspension travel, so the concern about tire rubbing might be credible. How much does the mod move the upper tire out (at it's maximum outter arc)?
2 Answer: This is subject to the actual final camber adjusted with the lower control arm cams. When first installed adjusted to nearly zero camber the tire had more than a half inch of margin from the tire edge to the inner edge of the wheel-well. Once the camber was dialed out to ~1° the relief is now well over an inch by eying it. There is plenty of room left. Some NSXers have spacers and might be able to get away without spacers or less spacer material; a case by case bases.
3. Are you actually machining away material from the upper A-arm in this mod, or just replacing the bushing with a modified one? This is a concern for returning to stock for resale at a later date...many of us do this?!?!
3 Answer: There is no material removed from the upper control arm. The OEM bushings are pressed out and fitted with the Patent Pending Camber Correction hardware allowing for the return to OEM with the removal the hardware and re-insertion of OEM bushings.
General note: when a car is lowered (and/or has modified sway, compliance, etc.,), it actually required less aggressive settings to achieve similar grip to a stock cars aggressive settings.
Comment: I would generally agree; gaining a lower center of gravity would place the car in less of a roll characteristic. Additionally, less sidewall in tires, stiffer suspension and sway bars also reduce roll and probably the need for aggressive camber settings. I’ll leave the actual need of camber settings to the race prone.
Great out of the box thinking Thom, and great product. Again, sorry we missed each other on my visit to Texas....c ya next time!
C ya next time, and again thanks for the props.
Just curious. Anyone know what appx. shop time this procedure should be needed to remove & reinstall the rear upper A arms?
And not being a mechanic, do the shocks/springs have to be removed? (noob suspension question I know.)
Just need an appx for overall cost estimation. (*alignment is assumed and not included in my question.)
Thanks in advance,
Sky
And not being a mechanic, do the shocks/springs have to be removed? (noob suspension question I know.)
Just need an appx for overall cost estimation. (*alignment is assumed and not included in my question.)
Thanks in advance,
Sky
Just curious. Anyone know what appx. shop time this procedure should be needed to remove & reinstall the rear upper A arms?
And not being a mechanic, do the shocks/springs have to be removed? (noob suspension question I know.)
Just need an appx for overall cost estimation. (*alignment is assumed and not included in my question.)
Thanks in advance,
Sky
Anyone have an R & R process on the rear arms? I guess having a dealer do this would not be the best idea since the car would have to sit on stands until the arms came back, more of DIY in my garage where the car can sit for a few days? I found on page 18-35 (pg678) in the shop manual describes this, going to have a closer look.
I'm going to have to figure out how much down time i'm going to have on my car, that is taking the arms off and sending them out? My car is still in storage here in Canada, util the weather gets better, now might be a good time to send these in!?
Thom: Are you expecting to still have a one day turn around from the shop after recieving the upper arms?
Thanks,
Richard
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Thom, Thanks for a great product for the NSX community. It is clear that your effort has produced a much needed product – just look at the list of interested people (43 as of this post.) I applaud your hard work and dedication. Thanks and Congrats!
Shop manual: The upper control arm is very easy to remove, maybe because I've done it a few times.
- The shock does not, or should not have to be disconnected.
- Once the caliper, caliper housing, and rotor are removed the ball joint can be separated. All that is remaining then is to merely unbolt the upper control arm from the chassis (4 bolts).
The hardest part is separating the ball joints from the hub. Once you loosen the ball joint nut, unscrew it so it covers the threads at the end of the stud, DO NOT FULLY REMOVE NUT. This nut will protect the threads and retaining pin holes when separating the ball. Use the correct tool as described in the manual.
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does anyone know how much new upper arms cost?
anywhere from about $700-900 for each rear upper, it seems
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I paid $850 for my rear passenger side
Same clearances, Airbag style strut......Like Mr.Brandons NSX:biggrin:
We should get togther, I'd like to examine your NSX set-up.
First person to have their kit installed and running in their car that's on the list, PLEASE LET US KNOW THE RESULTS!!!! :biggrin:
I think there are local guys(local to Thom) that are already running the camber kit. I can't wait to get mine done!
UPDATE
Parts are still not in.:frown:
Parts are still not in.:frown:
Put me on the list Thom. I live close!
I just want to let everyone know that I'm not holding things up. If anyone understands manufacturing... the lead time of parts can delay final dates. I'm still waiting for the remaing parts to come in. Manufacture gives date mid April, just as everyone is ensuring there taxes are done.
Keeping you guys informed, Thom; which by the way, I'd rather go by Ayotte (a- yacht, pronounced like "I belong to 'a yacht club' ")
C ya, Ayotte
Keeping you guys informed, Thom; which by the way, I'd rather go by Ayotte (a- yacht, pronounced like "I belong to 'a yacht club' ")
C ya, Ayotte
Hardware will be ready May 2nd, 2007. This is the most recent date given by the manufacture for the last item lead time.
Keeping you informed. Thom
NEWS ITEM... If anyone believes they have the ability to press out the OEM pivots or a shop that can press it out for them, I will sell them this kit directly. No need to send in your upper control arm.
Keeping you informed. Thom
NEWS ITEM... If anyone believes they have the ability to press out the OEM pivots or a shop that can press it out for them, I will sell them this kit directly. No need to send in your upper control arm.
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WOW.........If I'm reading this correctly you spent the 5-8k trying to get an open PATENT on suspension mounts
just for the NSX. You must have other kits for different cars or do you have other plans to recoup the money for the patent?
Or you could just sue every race car in the US? than get a patent in every Country...I would go Japan next they have lots of NSXs.
Please explain?
Thanks, Jeff
BTW: I have to deal with just DOD contract Patents and it's just sooo much money to try and protect I don't bother. After the lawyer gets involved we all lose :redface:
All in all, I did it for piece of mind. I’m not trying to make a living off selling this part, “breaking even” is fine for me.
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