BUNCH of Codes- any help on where to start?

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8 September 2005
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Atlanta, Georgia, United States
This may be a while so Ill start from the beginning.
last year go out to eat, no issues, get in the car and go to start, car idles for a second, then stalls.... HHMMM maybe its bc i parked on an angle and fuel pump was starved? start it again-- starts right up.... with a check light.

Pull the code with a friends code reader when I get home. P1607 (ECU Internal Circuit Failure)? well thats just weird. lets reset it and see what happens. Ill drive slow and close to home for a while.

2 Months go by- no issues. All the sudden same exact thing... go out to eat, stall, start up again... CEL (same issue)

So I reset again and again same issue...... no one can tell me what to do with this though except change the ECU and I figured if it was a really an ECU issue it would cause more issues than just a quick shut off.

Fast forward a bit and now I have a battery issue..... (Odyssey PC 680) just a small Dry cell and it needs to stay on the trickle charger otherwise it needs to be jumpstarted.

En route to GF house to meet up and on the way stopped off for something (might have been food LOL) but I need a jump start bc car doesn't crank but you can tell its different bc the lights dim as if the batt was weak.

now i get on the road again.... car goes into limp mode....

I limp it to my destination.... park it....

Pull the batt cable over night..... then go to work on it the next day.....

put batt cable on--- car starts right up - no issues (what happened to the dead batt??) but the CEL is on right away.

So i pull codes with a jumper and here is what I get.

Check engine flashes 6 long and 6 short.... so im guessing 66 P0141 (Rear O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2)


Whats wierd is this part.... the ABS flashes a code as well.
From the ABS light i get codes 12, 15, and 61

where do i find where these correlate

thank you so much---
By the way this is for an OBD II 2000 NSX-T

thanks
 
Sounds like you have multiple problems. 1)Get the battery issue resolved (get it tested or get a new one). 2)If the car runs OK then forget about the O2 sensors for now because they shouldn't cause the car not to start. 3)Main Relay is a known "won't start" intermittant problem on these cars (not sure if the problem carried over to later model cars - listen for the fuel pump to hum for a few seconds when you turn the key to ON position).
The problem seems too intermittant for a good diagnoses - from me anyway.
Good Luck!
 
I have the service manual notes P1607 is Engine Control / Module Internal /Circuit Failure A. I agree with pgilliam1 get the battery tested and make sure it doesn't have a bad or weak cell causing your problems. I also have a '00 NSX-T if the ECU does not see around 9.6v it starts doing weird stuff. I recall when my battery died a couple years back I thought I had a bad main relay so did some digging and found the battery to be weak.

I would do the Battery Test from manual: Test Load Capacity (#1) Apply 300 amp load for 15 seconds to remove surface charge. Allow 15 seconds recovery period. Apply test load (see Test Load Chart). Record voltage at the end of 15 seconds it should be over 9.6v. I would also check for bad grounds this sometimes solves 90% of weird electrical problems ask me how I know this? :rolleyes:
 
Thanks but how about the ABS light giving me a signal?

I've never seen that before or even read about it. Can the abs light give codes in the same way as the check engine light? Why is it doing so?

Thanks
 
The sequence of trouble shooting steps, found in the "Retrieving Codes using the Service Connector" pages, states in step #4 to "Record the blinking frequency of any dash indicator light." That leads me to believe there may be more than 1 indicator light that blinks. Bottom line is, I don't really know either :confused:.
 
Before you change the ecu, test the charging system on the car. A weak charging system can give you abs codes because voltages need to be at a certain value. Maybe the alternator is undercharging/overcharging depending on what the regulator is doing.....my .02 cents
 
So ideally change the battery first, then reset the codes.

If something shows up again test te charging system Whig is basically the alternator??

Sound ok??
 
So ideally change the battery first, then reset the codes.

If something shows up again test te charging system Whig is basically the alternator??

Sound ok??

You can easily test that the alternator is charging before you do anything. Put an ohm meter on the battery terminals and it should read 12vdc. Then start the car and re-ohm the battery. It should read about 14vdc with the engine running. The increase in voltage is from your alternator (your dash guage should show around 14vdc when running too) :smile:.
Good Luck
 
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I just replaced a battery that failed (after 10 years) with a "high" internal resistance between cells. With the engine off, the headlights were reasonably bright. With the engine cranking, which was extrmely slow, (or the solenoid simply clacking), the voltage dropped to 3 to 4V at the battery posts. (I measured at the posts to check the true battery voltage in case one of the cable clamps had corrosion or poor contact) When running, the voltage jumped up to 14.5, so the alternator was good. A new battery fixed the problem - 11.5 V when cranking & 14.5 V when running.


I mention all of this because I had no codes generated with the dying battery. That could mean that interim codes clear if the car starts and the battery gets up above 12V. So, as pgilliam1 suggested, check the battery voltage with the car running. If its not above 14V, fix that before doing anything else. If your meter on the dash is good, that should suffice. But, if you have a hand-held voltmeter, that's an extra sanity check.
 
Update:
I reset the ECU, cleared out codes-- turn the car on - 3 seconds, another Check engine light

Ran over to ADvance Auto parts-
CODE P0141 - O2 Sensor - Bank 1 Sensor 2.

This is the remaining code- the rest are from the bad batt i assume. we shall see

gonna order a new batt and a new O2 - see what happens after that
 
i just had that code.got both sensors on that bank to be on the safe side,and it was a good thing because the second one turned out to be bad,too.the little suckers are expensive,though,$250 or so.
 
Do a search on Prime. Replacement O2 sensors, even from the OEM supplier(s), are under $100 with the specific connector & cable length, even less so for the generic cable length. Prices are outrageous for the sensort shipped in an Acura/Honda parts bag.

Note that the code is for the sensor heater malfunction. Virtually any brand O2 sensor with a pre-heater specified for the NSX will work.

I have a distinct lack of loyalty for the OEM part because I lost both primary sensors for a heater malfunction with less than 50kmi on my NSX (But it was covered by warranty). I have a basic 1995 Ford sedan with a 3 liter V6 with 141 Kmi , same 4 sensors and not one has failed in all those years/miles.
 
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