Both mirrors and windows stop working... I'm really lost.

Joined
12 November 2008
Messages
374
Location
Houston
I have no idea what the problem could be or how to fix it. Yesterday, both were working perfectly fine. woke up this morning and both just stop. All fuses relays are working fine. Oem alarm. only thing I did on the inside is a double din unit, which I doubt could be the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Right now I have absolutely no idea what the problem could be.

car is a 1991
 
Last edited:
Trung,

Did you try both doors.....the switches? Maybe the connection to your drivers side door came loose and wasn't connected fully and came out enough to disturb the connection.

Also, last I recall, I believe the passenger side could be the issue as well, because they are linked? Don't quote me on that....but give that a try as well. I think they are linked....but I'm getting old and I could be an idiot. :wink:

- Z
 
All this is from the '95 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, so it most likely applies to your '91.
I assume this is the drivers/left door (no mirror control in passenger door).

Power windows use fuse 34 (under hood,hot at all times) + relay. Ground is G401. An integrated control unit turns the power on/off
Power mirrors use fuse 4 (under dash, hot when ignition is on). Ground is G401.

So, as Zishan notes, you may have disturbed a connector(s) on the harness to the door. Or, you disturbed ground G401, which is under the left kick panel, near the under dash fuse box. But, that would affect a lot more circuits.

Do your power door locks work? They use Fuse 35 (under hood) and G401. Again, problem most likely is a driver's door cable connector or ground G401.
 
where is ground g401 locate at?
Both locks work. This is frustrating.
I messed with the ground on the back of the seats panels and got the windows to roll down half way. I tighten it and now it is stuck. mirrors and windows are still not working. Took both panels off again to make sure connections are good. all fuses are check.

My guess is the ground, but have no idea where everything is at.
 
ETM picture 46 shows it as a bolt near the side of the under-dash fuse box. I appears to be on the side wall, not the firewall. The picture is titled "Left Kick Panel (Dash Removed)" That would be the under-dash panel, not the entire dashboard removed. I haven't crawled under there recently, so I'm sorry I can't give you any better directions.

PM me if you want me to scan the picture and email you a copy.

If the bolt is loose, then just tighten it. If there is corrosion between the bolt and the aluminum body, go to an electrical supply place and ask for the paste that is used when joining aluminum and copper wire. (I think it was called No-Ox or something like that). Put some on the bolt threads and on the ground terminal fitting to prevent future problems.
 
update:
I ran a few tests and figured out the problem. It was the grounding issue. Now the fun part is tracking that bad ground down. All of the grounds are secured so it have to be a corrosion in the wire somewhere. This is going to suck because I might have to take my interior apart beside the dash to find it. Hopefully this isn't needed.
 
If its a gounding issue and you can't find which wire it could be...instead of taking half the car apart, just splice into the ground wire on the window switch panel and make a new ground which will inturn ground everything in that circuit since they are connected.
Hope this helps.

Rahim
 
This. Nothing wrong with splicing a ground wire, I'd much rather that than a pos wire.
If its a gounding issue and you can't find which wire it could be...instead of taking half the car apart, just splice into the ground wire on the window switch panel and make a new ground which will inturn ground everything in that circuit since they are connected.
Hope this helps.

Rahim
 
I got it to work. :) both are back to normal now. Mirrors and windows are working like a charm. Also, I accidentally made going up auto too lol.
 
Outstanding. What was the fix?

The main ground was the issue from somewhere of the main harness to the driver side switch was not working. So like Rahiem said, just make a new one. I didn't feel like like taking the interior apart and making a new one only took me 5 mins once the door panel was off. While at it, i made a relay just to be on the safe side. Somehow..... and I dont know how.... that got the window to go up on auto too. so now i have both down auto and up auto.
 
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