Bose Amplifier Rebuild DIY Video

There was a peripheral reason I went off on the capacitor voltage rating tangent. An acquaintance mentioned the Tektronix TDS500 - TDS700 series of digital scopes that came out in the '90s. These were a really nice 4 channel, 500 Mhz digital scope which were $$$$. You can now find them for less than $200 on EBay, not because they are out dated; but, because they have a bit of a reputation for croaking. Since I have never set eyes on one, I can't verify; but he claimed that they suffer from the leaky electrolytic problem which was brought on by Tektronix using marginal voltage ratings on the capacitors (strikes me as odd as this would not have been a price point product for Tektronix when it was released). He says that techy people in the know buy these things and do the capacitor replacement with next voltage step up rated caps (switched fro 10 v to 16 v) because new 500 Mhz 4 channel scopes are in the $4000+ range. Apparently Tektronix knew they might have had a problem because they did a lot of switching to tantalum caps on their high end scopes. Again, all anecdotal.

The voltage rating thing got me thinking about the C19 and C25 capacitors on the Bose amplifiers which anecdotally seem to be common failure points. C19 and C25 are on the power supply side and others have pointed out that their 16 v rating might be marginal. Typically the running voltage on a car is around 14- 14.2 volts which gives a 13 % margin with a 16 volt capacitor. If there is any construction uncertainty in the capacitors voltage rating or the capacitors withstand deteriorates as it ages, that margin may disappear. As such, I was thinking that rather than trying for a 16 volt higher temperature / longer life rating it might be useful to try a step up in the voltage rating (next would be 20v or 25v). I recognize that may be a problem because the real estate around those capacitors is limited and higher voltage ratings come with larger size. Higher voltage rating, all things being equal, also usually come with an increase in ESR which may or may not be a problem.

Anyway - just a thought.
 
I've also had a look for a substitute for the C19 and C25 with higher voltage. 820/25V is significantly higher. There are two 820/16V from Panasonic, one fits (13 mm), the other one is thinner but too tall. you have ot modificate the metal shield which acts as cooling shield.

25V would only be possible if the you choose a lower value than 820, 680 or maybe 470. As C19 and C25 act as a buffer only it might work but I would not do it. If you really want to add a good buffer you can add an external board with extra caps. But is it really worth it, I doubt it. If the seals are the culprit there's nothing gained by a higher voltage rating. If a better cap holds 15-20 years I'd be happy with it and leave it as is.

Excursion: until the last centory engineers were allowed to produce quality, after that the man with the red pencil forced them to shorten the life of the products. That's the only reason I can see that the caps are placed in the hottest area of the board of whatever home electronic you buy these days. They are designed to fail. This is completely in contradiction to the golden age of home electronics (we talked about vintage hifi already). I'm a child of that time and have to get used to more 'modern times'.

People throwing away grandmas 40 years old electric mixer for the newest and fanciest one (which is designed to fail after a year) soon recognize that they made a mistake...
 
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Is it reasonable to install very long leads on the caps to isolate them and facilitate replacement?

How long of a lead and exactly how much isolation are you talking about?

Depends on which capacitors you are talking about. You have to be able to fit the circuit board back under its RFI metal shield. Right now, clearance to that shield is probably established by the size of the inductors; but, if you get creative with C19 and C25 you may have a fit problem. The smaller capacitors might be doable.

The other thing to consider is that in the world of electronic components, electrolytic capacitors represent a fairly large mass attached to some rather scrawny leads. Mounting the capacitor up off the surface of the board on longish leads is going to make them more susceptible to fracturing of the leads due to vibration of the capacitor mass are the car is driven over the normal road bumps. That is why all of the larger electrolytics are mounted right on the board surface with the shortest possible leads and in some cases have secondary securing with what looks like hot melt glue.
 
Is it reasonable to install very long leads on the caps to isolate them and facilitate replacement?
As Old Guy said, no not really. Considering the caps last 10-20 years (and should last even longer with the the better replacement caps) I don't think ease of replacement later is worth the drawbacks.

Also I love the discussion in this thread, loads of good info preserved (hopefully) for future owners.
 
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I'm envisioning a few inches of stranded wire to clear the PCB and fit "remotely" somewhere in the speaker housing. They can vibrate all they want with the stranded wire. It would not add much time to the repair and make future repairs a snap while protecting the PCB from additional damage.

I can envision this implementation on the speaker amps only due to all the extra space in the speaker housing. The SRS and stereo, not so much.
 
You could do that; but, remember that you have 11 capacitors on the amplifier board so if you extend the leads and remotely mount all of the capacitors you are going to have a mess of wires coming off of the board. Another thing to consider is that soldering an extending wire directly onto a capacitor lead is problematic. First the actual connection is difficult to make and second the attachment of the wire is going to subject the capacitor lead to flexing at the base of the capacitor which may result in fracture. The sanitary way to remote mount the capacitors would be to solder them directly on to a piece of proto board (just as they are currently soldered on the amp board) creating a daughter board which is mounted outside of the amp enclosure and then run the leads from the proto board to the amp board. However, that is a level of effort that I personally would not be inclined to do.
 
The redesigned units (97 in my case) seem to hold longer than the former one. 20 years and no big failure.

Besides that I've also noticed that the Targa with 60k miles had a lot of more dust behind the interior pieces (ECU, TCS unit etc.) than my 91 with double miles.
 
Hi everyones, interesting thread because I own my 94 NSX with 42k miles and last year I started to hear poping/distorsion noises I think from the center speaker. It is a problem make by the sub amp under the passenger floor side ? Thank you !

JF
 
Hi everyones, interesting thread because I own my 94 NSX with 42k miles and last year I started to hear poping/distorsion noises I think from the center speaker. It is a problem make by the sub amp under the passenger floor side ? Thank you !

JF

Yes......
 

Parts List
Current as of 11/2017, parts will likely be unavailable in a few years and new ones will need to be selected.


Capacitor, 10uF, 35V
Door Board P/N: C31, C172, C183, C203
Footwell Board P/N: C31, C172, C183
Suitable replacement: Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/rubycon/50YXJ10M5X11/1189-2322-ND/3562914

I tried to order the caps for this repair today but ran into an issue.

It looks like this 10uF 35V cap is out of stock at digikey. I'm a newb for this electronics stuff...could somebody more knowledgable suggest a suitable replacement part?
 
Yes, thanks for the bump......does anyone know if the Bose chips for the subwoofer amp are available anywhere?

Maybe they could possibly be common to other 90's Honda/Acura products?
 
The Bose ICs are the same in every speaker of the NSX. They have also been used widely in the Corvette C4 and potentially other cars, too. One of the Bose chips is sometimes seen on Ali Express - the other one hasn't been spotted yet.

Here's my write-up on the repair of the amplifiers, in case anyone is interested: http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?2678-Speaker-Repair
 
The capacitors are mostly the same in all build years but differ between subwoofer and door speaker. Bose did change the layout slightly over the years. Proposed way is to take out your amplifier boards, check each one against the list in the write-up and order accordingly.
 
I always forget about this thread and am embarassed everytime it comes up.

I lost all the footage before I could edit/upload it. So this thread sits here as a monument to my failure to deliver.
I wouldn't be so hard on myself - the write-up and images are very good - even without the video :)
 
The capacitors are mostly the same in all build years but differ between subwoofer and door speaker. Bose did change the layout slightly over the years. Proposed way is to take out your amplifier boards, check each one against the list in the write-up and order accordingly.
My passenger door speaker crackles on cold days but sound fine on warm days. Typical of capacitor issue?
 
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