I've started road racing and need a rollbar/5-pt harness to eventually move up in classes. I've done searches and see that Mugen made exactly what I am looking for, but can't find one for sale. Does anyone know of other options that bolt in with no cutting or welding on the car and still able to use stock seats. I want to be able to remove it when I am done with no damage to the car.
Bolt on Rollbar options
- Thread starter 21acres
- Start date
There's a mugen for sale a while back by Scorp965.
There's also a Carbing cage sold by STMPO.
There's also a Carbing cage sold by STMPO.
See this http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138824&highlight=roll+cage also you may want to put roll cage into the search feature like I did and read up so you get a better feel for whatever way you decide to go.Btw what racing organization allows you to "road race" with stock seats
Thanks for the input. STMPO makes great stuff, but not what I need. I just require a simple behind the seat rollbar for 5-point attachment. One of theirs requires taking out the back glass and the other is a full cage which I feel would be a bit difficult for the wife on date night, not to mention banging my head around if I wasn't wearing a helmet for day to day driving.
The Mugen was already sold, but I would love to find another as it appears to be the only simple bolt in design I could find in any searches on NSXprime.
If I can't find something simple I'll just keep my tech speed under 120mph and go with stock setup.
Stock seats/belts are OK for the Nebraska races where your target speed is 95mph or less with a DNE speed of 120mph.
The Mugen was already sold, but I would love to find another as it appears to be the only simple bolt in design I could find in any searches on NSXprime.
If I can't find something simple I'll just keep my tech speed under 120mph and go with stock setup.
Stock seats/belts are OK for the Nebraska races where your target speed is 95mph or less with a DNE speed of 120mph.
Do you really care about safety or are you just wanting to pass something? That Mugen rollbar is a piece for show. Ask any cage builder to look at that thing and they will tell you. It will rip out of the floorboard in a second, its mounting points are extremely weak. It does not attach to the frame.
If you don't care and want to pass the inspection only then I suppose it will work. There is NO WAY to get an effective rollbar into an NSX without taking out the rear glass.
If you don't care and want to pass the inspection only then I suppose it will work. There is NO WAY to get an effective rollbar into an NSX without taking out the rear glass.
If I thought there was any chance I would drive the car hard enough to roll it I wouldn't be in the race. I just want to move up to the 140mph top speed in the straights, so the Mugen/harness will allow me to do that.
Or I just stay at the 120mph group, it's really not that big of a deal either way to me. I am only in all this for the fun, never expect to finish anywhere in the top end as I never use a computer or even a stop watch. I just drive and smile a lot.
Or I just stay at the 120mph group, it's really not that big of a deal either way to me. I am only in all this for the fun, never expect to finish anywhere in the top end as I never use a computer or even a stop watch. I just drive and smile a lot.
so it sounds like you are doing a time distance event like open road challenge ect.. If a cosmetic bolt in cage will pass thier tech then so be it just scoure the for sale section,over the last year there have been some guys selling premade cages.
I think these events already have lax rules, and ignoring their already weak recommendations is really taking risks with your life. You want to get into the ONE HUNDRED AND FORTY mile per hour class, yet you don't believe there is any danger.
Well, I am not anyone's dad... I just hate to see anyone get injured or die. What you are doing isn't what I would do.
I do have a solution for you. Contact member BioBanker. Send him a PM and email him, as he may not be on this site that often anymore. He has a fully modular bar/cage that you can configure into many different combinations, and it is safer than the Mugen bar. It is a bolt-in. He wants to sell it as he is no longer racing so he will give you a great deal on it. WAY WAY less than what you will pay for just the Mugen bar.
Well, I am not anyone's dad... I just hate to see anyone get injured or die. What you are doing isn't what I would do.
I do have a solution for you. Contact member BioBanker. Send him a PM and email him, as he may not be on this site that often anymore. He has a fully modular bar/cage that you can configure into many different combinations, and it is safer than the Mugen bar. It is a bolt-in. He wants to sell it as he is no longer racing so he will give you a great deal on it. WAY WAY less than what you will pay for just the Mugen bar.
Henry, we have been discussing this issue for a while now, I am assuming you did not read the STMPO rollbar thread.
You can use a harness bar like many have/do. Comptech, TiDave (which is no cut unlike the Comptech, plus he has an ASM bar that goes under the factory seat), and a couple of other bars. These are not rollbars, they are just harness bars.
I believe these and a harness will protect you a lot better in MOST crashes. In a really serious crash however where the chassis is stressed, the lower mounting points of all the harness bars are very weak. I have seen what they attach to. It is an aluminum tin can. It will simply rip out of the floorboard and come loose, and a loose bar is not what you want in the cabin. The chances of this happening in most accidents is low... just know that it is a possibility.
This is why I had STMPO make a real rollbar for me. This attaches to the frame and has a real main hoop. I've spoken to a lot of people on this and was convinced this is the way to go. The benefits are two-fold. 1) this bar as a "harness belt" will not rip out of the floorboard. 2) the rollbar itself gives extra strength to the B-pillar above your head and keeps the roof from caving in (it also adds some extra support to the A pillar, although not nearly as much as a cage would). This greatly lessens the concern of being strapped into a harness with neck restraints of some sort and the roof caving in and snapping your neck. This is a very low percentage scenario, and not the main reason I am adding a rollbar. The main reason is that the harness will be attached to something that is attached to the frame rails of the car. Talking in the past to racers like John@microsoft, he felt a main hoop was really a great thing to have. For this, you will have to change the rear glass with Lexan.
Every design has a compromise of some sort.
Dave, this is one of your most reasoned post on this issue; you have finally seen the balance - discussed many moons ago by Tedro on these forums with pictures offered by yours kindly - even though you still show some bias re the impact of what you are doing to the A pillar in an NSX-T. But if that eases your mindset of being safer, then by all means :wink:
Not to necessarily dispute your concern regarding where the harness bar bolts, but have you seen or come across anyone/picture where harness bolts ripped off during an incident. Or for that matter if their OEM seats were ripped off their OEM rails?
Not to necessarily dispute your concern regarding where the harness bar bolts, but have you seen or come across anyone/picture where harness bolts ripped off during an incident. Or for that matter if their OEM seats were ripped off their OEM rails?
All I've done is ask questions and present information that I have found after lots of research. I am not sure what is "unbalanced" in anything I said in the past. Point it out if you feel something isn't right please.
The A and B are connected. If you strengthen one, you add some amount of strength to the other. That is all I have said. How much more is up for debate and it depends fully on the type of impact. What part of that is "biased"?
I am not sure why you feel I would in the smallest way be biased. We are talking about real important stuff that can affect someone's life or limb. I am sure that you would not want me hurt.... and I sure wouldn't want you to be hurt... biases and the desire to "be right" don't belong in these discussions. I am always open to hear what you or anyone else has to say.
No, I haven't... but how is that proof that they won't? How many NSX's have you seen with harness bars in serious accidents? Can you think of one? I haven't seen any.
Ask a local cage builder what he thinks Hrant, you may be surprised of what kind of answer you get. I have a guy localy that has been building cages for 20 years look at my car. I showed him the harness bar attachment points. He took a long hard look at the car inside, underneath, took out some sort of device I did not even recognize, took measurements and said he did not feel that was a good idea. I trust this guy a WHOLE LOT more than our guesswork.
Perhaps it is fine for certain impacts. We don't really know. We don't know the type of accident that one may have, nor the forces exerted on the bar. But we do know one thing.... attachment to the frame rails and strut towers is DEFINITELY stronger.
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You are connecting the A and B pillar in your targa? How is it being done, and how intrusive is it to the cabin? I'm very curious now...
No, I meant that when the roof is on, they are physically connected. Hrant feels that connection is very weak because he sees it being made with what he calls "pins"... lol... I think those steel bars that slide in and out are probably strong enough not to seperate even in a rollover. I seriously doubt that Honda engineers made that a weak point to where you roll and the Targa comes flying off. I've seen targa cars roll and the A bend and the T roof still stays in place. Unfortunately it does allow a minor amount of movement, hence some small amount of "flex", but that doesn't mean it is going to seperate and cave in on your head. That would be pretty poor design by Honda and I have never seen that happen in any of the NSX accident photos. Hrant's concern is with the A especially... for someone that sits closer to the A than to the B (I do not). It's a legit concern in a REAL MAJOR crash where the car goes airborne and lands on one A for example. We have seen these crush (on a coupe). My point was that having a rollbar at the B will help the B not crush, and therefore it will help hold up the A to SOME DEGREE. That degree depends on the type of accident, we don't really know. No one knows. But we do know that a real rollbar at the B won't hurt the A any.
If you are looking for more of a connection, the Targa can be welded in place. Talk to Downforce. I know they have done it on one of their builds.
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I flipped my first NSX with a harness bar in it. though, it wasn't a SERIOUS accident. it was one flip onto the roof but the impacts leading up to it were pretty hardcore. but my harness bar remained intact and planted =]
Dave, your post #15 summarizes the issue well. But I wouldn't characterize my position as the "pin" connections are "very weak." They are however the "weakest link" but haven't caused me sufficient worries to stay at home :wink:
Good to know. Thanks.
What kind of harness bar was it? Do you have any photos of the carnage? I would love to see how the vehicle holds up, understanding that every accident will be unique and I can't really tell anything from one specific wreck.
