- Joined
- 5 April 2005
- Messages
- 220
Regarding a post earlier today from RacerX-21:
It's such a shame you choose to post such irresponsible information to the community.
What's funny is how much this sounds like FactorX's previous lines of crap on the subject - blaming failures on everything other than the core root of the problem (the person sitting behind the keyboard). I keep thinking back to a turbo NSX a while ago that had a MAJOR block failure (company is mentioned in this thread) - fortunately I was able to connect to the EMS post-wreckage only to find huge timing advance numbers blanketed throughout the RPM range in fairly moderate 12 - 14 PSI boost regions (the boost levels at which the car was running). The computer will do what you tell it to do.
Chewed up bearings on the previous build were blamed on everything but the tuning. The fact that the block vomited chunks of metal from the bottom end certainly couldn't be the result of nasty and irresponsible tuning techniques. It's nice to take a look at those calibrations from time to time to remind me what NOT to do to an engine.
Here is what I see has happened...
1) Shop brand X has no real tuning background or solid experience.
2) Shop brand X builds some cars and unfortunately uses the customer's wallet for training purposes.
3) Shop brand X blows some engines up.
4) Shop brand X likes to tell customers that it was the engine management’s fault.
5) Shop brand X starts to learn just a little bit about tuning. Get’s training from other good tuners.
6) Shop brand X learns to use other engine management products.
7) Shop brand X decides to blame “the other guy” for previous failures. Easy to do since they’ve learned to tune a little better now and can push other brands.
Your claims are completely bogus and ignorant to say the least. By the way, your "spark deviation" theory is a load of crap.
My personal project runs the same exact NSX EMS by the way.
It's such a shame you choose to post such irresponsible information to the community.
What's funny is how much this sounds like FactorX's previous lines of crap on the subject - blaming failures on everything other than the core root of the problem (the person sitting behind the keyboard). I keep thinking back to a turbo NSX a while ago that had a MAJOR block failure (company is mentioned in this thread) - fortunately I was able to connect to the EMS post-wreckage only to find huge timing advance numbers blanketed throughout the RPM range in fairly moderate 12 - 14 PSI boost regions (the boost levels at which the car was running). The computer will do what you tell it to do.
Chewed up bearings on the previous build were blamed on everything but the tuning. The fact that the block vomited chunks of metal from the bottom end certainly couldn't be the result of nasty and irresponsible tuning techniques. It's nice to take a look at those calibrations from time to time to remind me what NOT to do to an engine.
Here is what I see has happened...
1) Shop brand X has no real tuning background or solid experience.
2) Shop brand X builds some cars and unfortunately uses the customer's wallet for training purposes.
3) Shop brand X blows some engines up.
4) Shop brand X likes to tell customers that it was the engine management’s fault.
5) Shop brand X starts to learn just a little bit about tuning. Get’s training from other good tuners.
6) Shop brand X learns to use other engine management products.
7) Shop brand X decides to blame “the other guy” for previous failures. Easy to do since they’ve learned to tune a little better now and can push other brands.
Your claims are completely bogus and ignorant to say the least. By the way, your "spark deviation" theory is a load of crap.
My personal project runs the same exact NSX EMS by the way.
RacerX-21 said:That question is more complicated then it appears!
The easy answer is about $350 but the tune quality will depend on your local talent.
And your definition of “Street able”. To some that means the car will start and will get you home. To others that means perfect “Drivability” typical of the hundreds of hours dedicated to tuning at the Honda factory. 100 x $100 = buy your own dyno.
I think the $600 figures seen in the replies are related to most owners needing to go back to the tuner as soon as they run into the first new condition that causes the car to be hard starting, or stall at an intersection. Every temperature change, altitude change or barometer change, etc. can cause a different map requirement and why it takes hundreds of hours from the factory to get you car to run so flawlessly.
Another variable is the quality of the new components like sensors; blow off valves, or intercoolers, etc. If these parts aren’t tested, good quality and proven, then your conditions will be variable and difficult for the ECU to chase and stay consistent. Part choice is part of those hundreds of hours dedicated by the OE manufacturer.
Engine safety is another notable subject: Most tuners learned from a previous tuner and we now have an industry overloaded with aftermarket ECU’s and tuners that send your car home somewhere between 11:1 and 12.5:1. I have been meaning to write an article about this and maybe this is the time.
12:1 is safe for the tuner so that the broad strokes of their tune doesn’t get your engine in trouble in future untested conditions. This is safe but far from that perfect “drivability” that Honda strides for. The main problem is that 12:1 is so far from stoich (Perfect burn) that you are dumping raw fuel. Much of that raw fuel washes the oil off your cylinder walls and quickly deteriorates your ring seat. This causes blow by that deteriorates your ring seat even faster. If you have ever worked on your car and got grease and oil deep in the crevasse of your hands, what is the perfect solvent to wash away that oil? Gas! The over rich condition besides the deterioration of you ring seat is getting in your oil (Smell it) and why many of you are spinning bearings.
The NSX runs at stoich or around 14.6:1 and will even peak off throttle at 16:1+. No average tuner would let that out the shop door but that’s how it should be until under a heavy load. The other (maybe) less important part of “drivability” is fuel mileage and emissions standards. Both can be achieved, my 600 whp car gets near OE fuel mileage on the highway, typical street dyno tunes can cut your mileage in half. There are so many variables with “Drivability” tuning, for example; Mike at FactorX uses a secondary map sensor to compensate for the drastic altitude changes seen in his region. Your average expert AEM tuner knows full throttle and how to get it to idle after only a few trips back to the dyno.
SO I stand with my $350 until you realize you want more and will spend until your satisfied or decide to settle.
The last issue is “severe duty”, or if you track the car, how hard you track the car, and the conditions of that day and location. If the AEM is you choice and based on your post it is… then “severe duty” should include engine-building costs. I could hardly impress on you how many problems have been caused by the spark deviation and the flaky noise issues that cause faulty sensor outputs. AEM has chosen not to address this problem, they do recognize it but are not willing to do the engineering changes because of the small NSX market. Before any AEM experts decide to retort… first talk to AEM about the problem and they will confirm the problems (If you sound like you know what your talking about). Another simple test for any AEM/NSX owners- Start your car and just let it idle, look at your laptop and watch the live temperature or a number of other sensors like throttle position. Even at idle they bounce all over the place, in some cars I have seen bouncing as much as 10-20 degrees at idle! Do you know what a variation like that does to your map? The NSX harness makes a lot of noise but the OE ECU can handle it and so can other aftermarket brands. I know it’s political suicide to bad mouth but I have seen well over $100,000 worth of damage at multiple shops directly related to the AEM/NSX combination… so the comments are warranted and good advise for the NSX community. If you beat your car and are not just show, then buck up for a more expensive aftermarket ECU. Sorry AEM but if you didn’t cost us so much money or even solved your own issues then I wouldn’t be spilling.