Will do
Blown Head Gasket
- Thread starter toe222
- Start date
Will do
And away she goes
Yep,confirmed.....blown head.
While the engine is dropped I'm taking the liberty to also do timing belt and water pump.
My question to you guys is, I eventually want to get the car up to 400-450 with a Ctsc (seems to be more reliable from everything I'm reading.
What other engine upgrades should I do while the engine is out?
While the engine is dropped I'm taking the liberty to also do timing belt and water pump.
My question to you guys is, I eventually want to get the car up to 400-450 with a Ctsc (seems to be more reliable from everything I'm reading.
What other engine upgrades should I do while the engine is out?
Wouldn't assume that CTSC is the MOST reliable from reading. Quite a few turbo setups without issues. Issues were primarily from going for too much HP. You should decide on FI based upon what you want out of the car, not based upon reliability since too much boost with inadequate tuning can blow any engine. My advice is to contact others and ride / drive cars with turbo and CTSC and then decide.
Otherwise, things to address:
1 New oil pump gears increase flow
2 Replace lost motion assemblies (SOS has a nice replacement kit)
3 Upgrade the radiator if you are planning on any track events
4 Replace ALL of the hoses
5 Consider a new harmonic balancer or the shield for piece of mind
6 Clutch if you are really planning on more HP
7 Headers if you are sure about the CTSC. If turbo, some of them will include new headers.
8 New brake lines if they haven't already been replaced
9 Make sure that the cylinders are not damaged since they can get "washed" with antifreeze in which case there can be scoring of the cylinder walls. If you need any engine work, then decision time REALLY hits home regarding low compression vs a full rebuild.
Otherwise, things to address:
1 New oil pump gears increase flow
2 Replace lost motion assemblies (SOS has a nice replacement kit)
3 Upgrade the radiator if you are planning on any track events
4 Replace ALL of the hoses
5 Consider a new harmonic balancer or the shield for piece of mind
6 Clutch if you are really planning on more HP
7 Headers if you are sure about the CTSC. If turbo, some of them will include new headers.
8 New brake lines if they haven't already been replaced
9 Make sure that the cylinders are not damaged since they can get "washed" with antifreeze in which case there can be scoring of the cylinder walls. If you need any engine work, then decision time REALLY hits home regarding low compression vs a full rebuild.
Thanks jorligan.....will definitely look at this list
I sure would. The advantage of the CTSC is that there are several hundred NSX installations, with only a few variations, so they have had the chance to get the bugs out based on lots and lots of real-world experience including all conditions (driving, weather, usage, etc). No turbo installation has very many basically identical installations running around, so each one is rather unique and there hasn't been a chance to correct those problems that arise only in limited conditions.
Roger if you have plans for boost then I recommend going with a MLS head gasket. You can use either the OEM one for the 3.2 or the aftermarket one from Cometic. Also, you really ought to consider the ARP head stud kit.
I would disagree since the "hundreds of CTSC" were based on the rising rate fuel pressure regulator and otherwise used the factory ECU for tuning. With the standard boost system, they would run well but were essentially tuned for safety, tending to run on the rich side. The "high boost option" ran terribly rich. The cars would be tuned to local conditions and could vary considerably with altitude, ie tuned to 5000 ft vs sea level. There are now hundreds of turbo setups with basically identical installations. Boost is Boost with the difference only in whether the engine is built or running stock. The real issue is how hard you are willing to push the engine, ie the maximum RWHP reported by any SC is around 600 with a low compression high boost motor and it used a programmable ECU. The turbo motors which have had issues, mine included, were pushing over 800 RWHP on a built motor. The turbo cars now are running programmable ECUs or piggy backs units. The first turbo NSX actually used a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (Bell Engineering) which is essentially the same unit used in the first Comptech superchargers. In regards to variability, the current Comptech superchargers, CT engineering SC, or S0S SC are actually different compared to the first Comptech supercharger. They are actually more efficient, ie better although the design is similar.
Ultimately, for ANY FI, reliability is all about how far you want to push your engine. Plenty of threads about "safe HP" and it is probably around 350-550 RWHP depending upon the engine build. The CTSC produced around 360 RWHP which is relatively low boost so if that is your goal, it can easily be achieved with a turbo setup or SC setup, real issue is that they drive differently (exception may be with twin turbo setup by DDozier).
Absolutely NOT true. Not even remotely close. Not on NSX's, anyway.
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400 to 450 isn't a good idea with ctsc the SOS blower might be more inline with those goals.
If you are referring to identical turbocharger itself, correct. If turbocharger with similar setups (Single turbo) except for turbocharger model itself, then hundreds between the various builders. Kinda like Comptech, really HUNDREDS of original Comptech or hundreds of the whipple style twin screw chargers since again the new is different than the old. Done with discussion
First of all, there aren't even a hundred turbocharged NSX's in the country. So your claim is absolutely, totally NOT TRUE.
And each setup is different. A FactorX turbocharged NSX is totally different from a Lovefab turbocharged NSX. And each has maybe, what, ten installations or so? I'm pretty sure it's fewer than twenty for either one, and those are the two big ones.
Whereas there are over 300 Comptech/CT superchargers that have been installed, all basically the same. Heck, Acura of Brookfield alone has installed them in over forty NSX's.
And each setup is different. A FactorX turbocharged NSX is totally different from a Lovefab turbocharged NSX. And each has maybe, what, ten installations or so? I'm pretty sure it's fewer than twenty for either one, and those are the two big ones.
Whereas there are over 300 Comptech/CT superchargers that have been installed, all basically the same. Heck, Acura of Brookfield alone has installed them in over forty NSX's.
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So basically the safest route is 360-400 with CTSC
I don't know about safest. It is the easiest, but I would think a proper tune would be safer than just the increased fuel pressure comptech uses. But the most set it and forget it is the CTSC.
You're talking crank horsepower, not wheel horsepower...right?
RWHP for Autorotor CTSC kit will be in the neighborhood of 310/330 rwhp (355/375 crank) for na1/na2. With different tuning (F/IC, 550cc injectors, fuel pump, OEM FPR, smaller pulley) I'm familiar with an NA1 at 365 rwhp (420 crank). You need a bigger blower (like SOS SC) to hit the 400 (or 420) rwhp mark (420 rwhp ~ 480 crank).
Stock is around 236/253 rwhp (270/290 crank).
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Why not go Turbo?
Also, what cause your HG to break on a stock engine?
Also, what cause your HG to break on a stock engine?
Either way, what could cause this on a stock engine?
I'll have more answers once the engine is dropped
Got some info from Mitch. Let me know about previous work done to the rear end which I knew.
Main cause on overheat was that half of the rear cylinder head bolts were just hand tight which caused the loss of colant.
Main cause on overheat was that half of the rear cylinder head bolts were just hand tight which caused the loss of colant.
So, the motor had already been previously rebuilt?
Also found that the crank shaft pulley was way over torqued
do you know who did the previous repair/work? might be good for the community to know since they apparently did a terrible job of it...
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You would have to ask Jose Macias to find out which body shop did the work
