Has anyone used a K Sport big brake kit? Good or bad? I have a 2000 Nsx, and track it about 12 days a year. Looking for a trouble free big brake kit that I can use at the track and on the street.
Big brake kit
- Thread starter gsommer
- Start date
Don't know anything about KSports BBK, but they are know for making crap stuff.
Stick with the big names - Stoptech, Brembo, AP
You don't need a BBK for the track. I am running stock (NA2) brakes, with OEM rotors, lots of ducting and Carbotech XP10/8s and I ran with some Porsche GT3s Cayman S today and out braked them going into the corners. Now that I have lots of ducting front and rear, no fade. We did open lapping yesterday and I ran 62 laps in a row, full out with no fade during a 94 degree day. If fact my water temps were the problem, not my brakes.
Don't think you need a BBK to track the car. I run in the instructor & advanced groups and with good pads and good ducting <---- the key I don't see the need to go BBK.
Stick with the big names - Stoptech, Brembo, AP
You don't need a BBK for the track. I am running stock (NA2) brakes, with OEM rotors, lots of ducting and Carbotech XP10/8s and I ran with some Porsche GT3s Cayman S today and out braked them going into the corners. Now that I have lots of ducting front and rear, no fade. We did open lapping yesterday and I ran 62 laps in a row, full out with no fade during a 94 degree day. If fact my water temps were the problem, not my brakes.
Don't think you need a BBK to track the car. I run in the instructor & advanced groups and with good pads and good ducting <---- the key I don't see the need to go BBK.
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Of course you did. The NSX is to a Porsche like a Cray Supercomputer is to an abacus.
CL65captain are you using the Porsche ducts? are they as large as anyone else's aftermarket for the NSX? Can I walk into a porsche dealer and ask for these? are they from a 911? thanks.
LOL Hugh... no man I am not talking about hose. I am talking about the deflectors. I think he found a cheap porsche one now I can't find the thread.
Dali has deflectors. I even have them on my car. However for track use, the hose would be a much better solution. Do a search, there are several threads out there showing DIY installations of cooling hose.
I thought the hose had to be used with the deflectors.
From what I understand, the deflectors are nice but they are not the most significant improvement. The ducting is what gives the largest improvement (which makes sense). That being said, I would probably do both when I'm ready to do that mod as the deflectors are cheap and can't hurt IMO.
The deflectors won't do much good with the hose in front of it.
They both mount in front of the a-arm.
Later,
Don
So deflectors alone then? Man I am so confused... problem is I have never looked in there myself so I have no idea. Captain, how about some info on those porsche deflectors? You said they were like $6/each? I can't believe Porsche sells anything for $6.
Just get the STMPO deflectors.
LOL.... "just spend $75 more".... is that what you are saying?
Just got the alu bumper beam, 8.6 pounds and the front bar at 6.2. Nice looking stuff. I didn't make a package deal with the defelectors dammit.
Plus if I go to Porsche I can always test drive a new GT3. Me likey those center lock wheels!
Don, I have the Dali deflectors and attached the 2" hose to my modified splash shield in the rear of the rotor. So yes, I have both.
This is before I put the Dali deflectors back on and trimmed off the extra from the splash shield, but you get the idea.
The rear rotors I am running 2" duct hose.
Running Carbotech XP10/8 and my rotor temps are now a very consistent 320F front / 380 rear after a cool down lap and pitting in.
Just ran 62 straight laps in a row Fri during our Instructors open lapping day in 93F weather with no fading. Water temps ~ that was another story.
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You can get them from Pelicanparts.com there is a thread about ducting here on prime with a link to them.... they are for the 993. Yes, $12 each. I already had my Dali aluminum otherwise I would use the 993 deflectors.
My setup is Slightly different. I pulled the AC condensers I am using 3" ducting.
I would like to do something for the rear. I suspect my car is to low to hang the hose under the car.
Later,
Don
Eventually (when I get bored) I want to make a rear undertray and use a NACA duct to collect the air for my rear ducting. That way nothing is hanging down into the airstream.
But for now, this seems to do the trick ~ 80 to 100F lower temps in the rear.
Don it is cheap to give it a try and see if it will fit, if it rips off then you aren't out much $.
$50 of ducting and the tops of 2 qt of Mobil 1, some zip ties and some Mighty Putty.
But for now, this seems to do the trick ~ 80 to 100F lower temps in the rear.
Don it is cheap to give it a try and see if it will fit, if it rips off then you aren't out much $.
$50 of ducting and the tops of 2 qt of Mobil 1, some zip ties and some Mighty Putty.
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Those are pretty good temps on OEM sized rotors with all the cooling and 62 laps! But I can see some hot spots on your rear rotor.
Just as an FYI, with the Stoptech BBK/XP10s and just the Dali street deflecter on the front (an no splash guards fronts/rear), I get about the same temps with a passenger in some 20-25 minute sessions, in the paddock after a mild cool down.
As for the water temps, welcome to the club for those who keep the RPMs near redline :tongue:
Short of short shifting, I tried oil cooler which gave me about 10-15F cooling; and now have gone into vented hood with radiator duct which should also help as I can feel the hot air coming out of the vented hood even on regular street driving. If that is still not enough, then an upgrade of the OEM radiator would be the next step.
But I try to avoid tracking on days above 90F ambient temps; the car is able to handle it, I just don't need to sweat it out with her :wink:
The pic was from when I was running HP+ and they just couldn't handle even a 20 min session.
I am not a big fan of the vented hood look. So I think I am going to an oil cooler first. Then radiator if I must. It doesn't hurt my ego to back off for two laps, but it usually happens when you have a clear track and are knocking out consistent laps and getting faster each time.
I am surprised that an oil cooler didn't help more. It seems like since the OEM oil cooler is tied in to the water that once you heat soaked the car that even a better/2 pass radiator would be fighting an uphill battle.
Try some rotor paint or caliper temp strips. Measuring rotor temps AFTER a cooldown lap is irrelevant. Rotors can easily get over 800*F under operation and calipers up to 350*F+.
The effectiveness of a cooling system should not be dictated by how well it cools the system on a cooldown lap, but rather during operation.
0.02
yea, I know. But the $80 for the paint goes towards new pads.
Going to try to find some other locals to split it with me, as none of the local NSX Buttnuts track their cars. They keep saying they will, or that 2-1/2 hrs is too far to drive to the track ~ yet they drive 2 hrs to go to Cars & Coffee to sit around looking at cars. :tongue:
Since my previous pit in temps were CONSISTENTLY around 400+ and now they are CONSISTENTLY around 320, the cooling isn't hurting. :smile:
But yes, Billy as usual you are correct.
Just as an FYI, I have a CTSC. the 10-15F on water temp is quite significant. That is the difference between running close to the red bar with ambient temp in the 95F (I am guessing about 215-220F as that gauge is now disconnected in favor of a spa gauge) and prior to CTSC, to now no more than about 205F depenmding on ambient temp.
As for the oil temps, I am finally no more than 255-260F with the vented hood when I am really hooked and pushing it, and often with a passenger. Before the vented hood, I would back off so as to not exceed 260F. I have no weight reduction either.
Oh, OK. I am still N/A. This weekend while running my hour long open session marathon trying to catch the ZR1 (which I never was able to do
) the OEM water temp gauge went from one line below 1/2 to one line above 1/2 so I backed off for two laps and then could get a couple more charges in before having to repeat. Normally, it's rock solid at one line before the 1/2 mark. I think I am going to go ahead and add the SOS oil cooler. I normally don't run more than 25 min sessions, but with temps in the 90s I don't want have to worry about what my oil temps are doing (no gauge).
Bigger brake kits do offer the benefit of allowing the owner to use one set of brake pads on both street and the track under moderate conditions rather than having to switch between street pads and race pads with the stock brakes or running a race pad that puts a lot of dust down.
The first question is what wheels do you have or want to run with? That will tell us what brake kits are available for your application.
-- Chris
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