I have not been able to buy the rings only. They have sold me the complete rotor.
My initial break kit had the G88 rotor 44 slots per side. The replacement rotors I have purchased have about a dozen spiral groves.
I prefer these over the G88.
Big brake kit cost benefits?
- Thread starter skyline23
- Start date
I have not been able to buy the rings only. They have sold me the complete rotor.
My initial break kit had the G88 rotor 44 slots per side. The replacement rotors I have purchased have about a dozen spiral groves.
I prefer these over the G88.
Old hubs should be fine. You may want to replace the mounting hardware.
I suspect the rotors come with hubs.
Rotors are hubs and rings.
They wouldn't sell me the rings separately, maybe the will now? The $578 price is about what I paid for a full set of 4 rotors a few years ago. rings and hubs fully assembled.
Maybe this is what is required to be TUV compliant in Europe?
I suspect the rotors come with hubs.
Rotors are hubs and rings.
They wouldn't sell me the rings separately, maybe the will now? The $578 price is about what I paid for a full set of 4 rotors a few years ago. rings and hubs fully assembled.
Maybe this is what is required to be TUV compliant in Europe?
I road race in NASA. I have raced 2 different FD rx7's, NSX stock, NSX modded, c5 vette, 996tt, 997tt and 240 z. You really have to setup brakes based on your driving and the cars setup. I race the FD's the most. Before I was good enough to need more, stock brakes with upgraded pads worked fine. As I became better and added Hoosier R6's, the brakes with the correct pads worked fine but would go through a set of front pads in 2 track days, rear pads in 8 track days. Front rotors in 4 track days and rear in approx 16. So everyone suggested BBK. I was prepared to buy front and rear. After talking with the Mazda experts at Tripoint Engineering, they said get the fronts only. "It's what works on these cars." I thought I could add rears later if they were wrong. The pads I use now are Hawk HP plus (aggressive street). The car out stops all other cars in the same class. Has set numerours records in NASA. The front pads now have to be changed 1 time per season. The rears can run for 2 years. If I had not experienced this, I would not believe the 1 change made such a difference. All the forum suggestions were buy buy buy.
On the vettes (c5), we find proper pad upgrades makes the car stop great. Pad and rotor life are ok. 3 pad changes per season in the front upgrade to 2 piece rotors for better heat dissipation (longer life). BBK work ok but only improved a litte. Most run stock.
In the 997tt stock w good pads is awesome. In the 996tt, brakes are horrible looking for the solution.
In the NSX, the stock brakes w better pads are not enough. However, I just bought a NSX with 6 piston wilwoods up front and 4 piston wilwoods in the rear. It is horrible. Too much front. Locks up. The stock one will out stop it.
What my long post is saying is go test yours out. Feed back the problems. Address them and go. Be aware most places will say buy it buy it! Not the right answer always. If I would have bought big rears in the FD, I would have to proportion down to reduce the rear and have the same effect. Good luck. I have to figure this modded NSX out too.
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I road race in NASA. I have raced 2 different FD rx7's, NSX stock, NSX modded, c5 vette, 996tt, 997tt and 240 z. You really have to setup brakes based on your driving and the cars setup. I race the FD's the most. Before I was good enough to need more, stock brakes with upgraded pads worked fine. As I became better and added Hoosier R6's, the brakes with the correct pads worked fine but would go through a set of front pads in 2 track days, rear pads in 8 track days. Front rotors in 4 track days and rear in approx 16. So everyone suggested BBK. I was prepared to buy front and rear. After talking with the Mazda experts at Tripoint Engineering, they said get the fronts only. "It's what works on these cars." I thought I could add rears later if they were wrong. The pads I use now are Hawk HP plus (aggressive street). The car out stops all other cars in the same class. Has set numerours records in NASA. The front pads now have to be changed 1 time per season. The rears can run for 2 years. If I had not experienced this, I would not believe the 1 change made such a difference. All the forum suggestions were buy buy buy.
On the vettes (c5), we find proper pad upgrades makes the car stop great. Pad and rotor life are ok. 3 pad changes per season in the front upgrade to 2 piece rotors for better heat dissipation (longer life). BBK work ok but only improved a litte. Most run stock.
In the 997tt stock w good pads is awesome. In the 996tt, brakes are horrible looking for the solution.
In the NSX, the stock brakes w better pads are not enough. However, I just bought a NSX with 6 piston wilwoods up front and 4 piston wilwoods in the rear. It is horrible. Too much front. Locks up. The stock one will out stop it.
What my long post is saying is go test yours out. Feed back the problems. Address them and go. Be aware most places will say buy it buy it! Not the right answer always. If I would have bought big rears in the FD, I would have to proportion down to reduce the rear and have the same effect. Good luck. I have to figure this modded NSX out too.
On the vettes (c5), we find proper pad upgrades makes the car stop great. Pad and rotor life are ok. 3 pad changes per season in the front upgrade to 2 piece rotors for better heat dissipation (longer life). BBK work ok but only improved a litte. Most run stock.
In the 997tt stock w good pads is awesome. In the 996tt, brakes are horrible looking for the solution.
In the NSX, the stock brakes w better pads are not enough. However, I just bought a NSX with 6 piston wilwoods up front and 4 piston wilwoods in the rear. It is horrible. Too much front. Locks up. The stock one will out stop it.
What my long post is saying is go test yours out. Feed back the problems. Address them and go. Be aware most places will say buy it buy it! Not the right answer always. If I would have bought big rears in the FD, I would have to proportion down to reduce the rear and have the same effect. Good luck. I have to figure this modded NSX out too.
- - - Updated - - -
I road race in NASA. I have raced 2 different FD rx7's, NSX stock, NSX modded, c5 vette, 996tt, 997tt and 240 z. You really have to setup brakes based on your driving and the cars setup. I race the FD's the most. Before I was good enough to need more, stock brakes with upgraded pads worked fine. As I became better and added Hoosier R6's, the brakes with the correct pads worked fine but would go through a set of front pads in 2 track days, rear pads in 8 track days. Front rotors in 4 track days and rear in approx 16. So everyone suggested BBK. I was prepared to buy front and rear. After talking with the Mazda experts at Tripoint Engineering, they said get the fronts only. "It's what works on these cars." I thought I could add rears later if they were wrong. The pads I use now are Hawk HP plus (aggressive street). The car out stops all other cars in the same class. Has set numerours records in NASA. The front pads now have to be changed 1 time per season. The rears can run for 2 years. If I had not experienced this, I would not believe the 1 change made such a difference. All the forum suggestions were buy buy buy.
On the vettes (c5), we find proper pad upgrades makes the car stop great. Pad and rotor life are ok. 3 pad changes per season in the front upgrade to 2 piece rotors for better heat dissipation (longer life). BBK work ok but only improved a litte. Most run stock.
In the 997tt stock w good pads is awesome. In the 996tt, brakes are horrible looking for the solution.
In the NSX, the stock brakes w better pads are not enough. However, I just bought a NSX with 6 piston wilwoods up front and 4 piston wilwoods in the rear. It is horrible. Too much front. Locks up. The stock one will out stop it.
What my long post is saying is go test yours out. Feed back the problems. Address them and go. Be aware most places will say buy it buy it! Not the right answer always. If I would have bought big rears in the FD, I would have to proportion down to reduce the rear and have the same effect. Good luck. I have to figure this modded NSX out too.
Go for the Brembo front, or Stoptech Front & Rear.
If you want THE BEST setup, Performance Friction's 14" front and rear 4-piston multi-pad monoblock caliper, while hard to find, is arguably the best kit ever made for the NSX. FXMD uses it in their Unlimited class, record-breaking NSX.
If you want THE BEST setup, Performance Friction's 14" front and rear 4-piston multi-pad monoblock caliper, while hard to find, is arguably the best kit ever made for the NSX. FXMD uses it in their Unlimited class, record-breaking NSX.
I had to make a move with Tarox as there is no one in the US to sell these parts and I needed replacement pieces for my kit. So as a result the shop I tune out of is now the mid-west and I believe only TAROX dealer. If you need parts for your existing kit or are interested in a new kit contact me and I will get you taken care of.
You can replace just the Disks, the hubs should last forever unless you damage one somehow. The hardware to connect the Disks to the hub should be reusable as well but should be replaced if there is any sign of stress cracking or thread damage. I had to rebuild my front and rear calipers and decided to replace all the disks. This is after an unknown number of track days but it is a very large number of HDPE's. I know I have run the same disks for over 7 years now mostly street but they had a few years of track use before I took a break then just between this year and last year the disks have over 25 days and even after all that they measured out at 25.2mm front and 24.9mm rear from 26mm new. The Disks wear like nothing I have ever used on any track car. Pad wear is noticable if you run any compound other than the 116 full track pads. I tried the 115 pads and found the wear to be similar to most other track pads, but the 116 pads are at 15 track days and counting. The 116 squeal loud for street use so that is why I ordered the other set of disks, I am planning on running the 114 or 115 pads on the street with the still servicable old disks and the new disks with 116 pads for track season.
If you want the disks alone they are list price 460.00 euro a pair, hubs only are 278.00 euro a pair, pads are 235.00 euro a pair, pistons for caliper rebuild are 8.00 euro each. Exchange rate has a big effect on our prices so if you want replacement parts or pads watch the euro and when it takes a dip to the dollar then buy. It takes about 10 days to get just about anything here from TAROX. They make everything to order so a 10 day turn around is really not bad considering you loose three days to DHL. It can be a challenge to get through the language barrier and the time change but so far I am very impressed with what TAROX has done.
If you need parts for a TAROX kit the caliper bracket has a three digit number engraved onto it, this is the key to getting the correct service parts. Along with a few pictures and the three digit number all service parts as still available for any TAROX product ever made.
Dave
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Don and Dave,
Since you both are running Tarox in a full kit (both front and rear), do you know if the rear set up comes with e-brake as well?
Do you know what is the model/part number for the rear setup?
Thanks,
-Nat
Since you both are running Tarox in a full kit (both front and rear), do you know if the rear set up comes with e-brake as well?
Do you know what is the model/part number for the rear setup?
Thanks,
-Nat
My kit did not come with an ebrake. When I inquired with Tarox a few years back they recommended using the Brembo ebrake setup but at a $1,000+ I declined. I believe they have an ebrake setup. If you are interested I can inquire for you to Tarox.
Dave
Dave
I don't have an ebrake ether. Not sure the Brembo will work as the offset of the rotor face may be different?
The offset is easy to adjust for. It's the rotor diameter and the corresponding bracket and to some extent the rotor thickness that ends up being more tricky. I had to machine a custom set to fit a 14"/355mm rear rotor. You can sort of see it here. (DDozier, I PM'ed you)
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Here's the ebrake I used. It's lighter, smaller, and much cheaper then the Brembo package.
As mentioned earlier.. the bracket is trickier. Here's a 14" I made for myself. The 13" is for my buddy who has the CT Brembo setup.
Shad installed Stoptec front brakes for me last year. Huge benefit, much more confidence when campaigning the car in the Chihuahua Express road race in Mexico. Much later braking, much happier driver.
My Brembo front BBK with PFC01 pads are bullet proof. Never had a problem with them, they never overheat and stop incredible. Rotors last a very long time. I took the plunge to a BBK several years ago because I was going through about 4-6 sets of stock rotors per year. This was with air deflectors as well. The stock rotors just couldn't keep up with driving on R comp tires on certain tracks like Cal Speedway and Laguna Seca. I would get stress cracks that eventually would go all the way through the rotor. I would crack a set of new rotors in two weekends at Cal Speedway. It was a pain in the ass taking it in to my shop to change rotors. That in of itself is expensive.
If you end up doing any type of serious tracking, you are quick and you run r comp tires, you more than likely will start going through stock rotors quickly. If you are a casual tracker then the stock brakes actually may be fine. They do stop suprisingly well as long as you don't push them too hard for too long. If you do, you will eventually need to upgrade to a Brembo front BBK with PFC 01 pads (and stock rear caliper with XP8 or XP10 pads) or Stoptech Front/Rear setup. My .02
If you end up doing any type of serious tracking, you are quick and you run r comp tires, you more than likely will start going through stock rotors quickly. If you are a casual tracker then the stock brakes actually may be fine. They do stop suprisingly well as long as you don't push them too hard for too long. If you do, you will eventually need to upgrade to a Brembo front BBK with PFC 01 pads (and stock rear caliper with XP8 or XP10 pads) or Stoptech Front/Rear setup. My .02
Decision made : this is the end of my stock brakes. I still have one set of new rotors to use and then I will go with BBK. I cannot make more that 4 trackdays before they crack. They brake hard and I have no fading with the deflectors and the XP10/XP8. But changing the rotors so often is no more bearable.
Thank you for the post and all the details here.
Thank you for the post and all the details here.
Interesting topic. I personally feel that it completely depends on your driving style. I have a track sorted 98 NSX and all I did was upgrade pads, fluids, SS lines, and front brake ducts. IMHO you need to be on Hoosiers and in the top run group before you upgrade to BBK. BBK is more confidence inspiring but it teaches a bad habit of "charging corners" and reduces RWHP(Per DAL motorsports web article).
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