BBVNSX 93 EDM NSX - From Portugal!

[goldNSX]

http://jp-carparts.com/honda/part_d...ype=NSX&cartype=26921&fig=B&fig1=3740&fig2=59

According to this side it's 77230-SL0-Z00ZB. It's rare but the fitment of the carbon is off-center and it isn't even 100% carbon, just a overlay.

The price of the complete carbon panel is listed at $15'000. A price set so high that nobody ever should order one. For that price you could order 30 units from Tamoske and one of these might fit better as long you receive them.

 

[BBVNSX]

Well time for some updates!

As you know the direction of my build is towards weight reduction and NA responsiveness!

Since my clutch was not feeling too good (I think because of the master cylinder becoming sticky), and I always wanted to try Lightweight flywheel or lighter/bit more aggressive clutch, after some research I decided to go with OS Giken STR2C twin plate kit, that includes the Movement Alteration Kits to allow use of OS Giken push-type clutch on our NSX, that is factory equipped with pull-type clutch system. I also replaced my old and tired master cylinder with a new OEM one. The slave cylinder is not needed as the OS Giken kit comes with specific one.

After removing the transmission here is the OEM Clutch:

Out with the old clutch, time for some cleaning and replacing the oil sealing:

before:

After:

Time for the new clutch:

As usual some weight comparision (Kg):

Flywheel:

OEM:

OSG:

<a


-6,99 + 5,21 = - 1,78 Kg (-3,92 lbs)

Clutch and flywheel:

OEM:

OSG:

-16,19 + 11,85 = -4,34 Kg (-9,57 lbs)

 

[BBVNSX]

Out with the slave cylinder, flexible lines and clutch damper:

I Replaced all with direct line (since I decided to go with direct line and eliminate the clutch damper, the line that came with the OSG slave on the first picture below had to be replaced with a longer one):

Final result:

weights:

OEM:

OSG:

-2,24 + 1,15 + 1,51 = +0,42 Kg (+0,93 lbs)

OSG vs OEM with all the parts and lines final math is: -4,34 + 0,42 = -3,92 Kg (-8,64 lbs) and big part of it is rotational weight :biggrin:

 

[BBVNSX]

As suspected the master cylinder was in pretty bad condition:

So new OEM one to replace:

One more picture of the clutch installed:

And here you can see the new OSG clutch release fork:

 

[BBVNSX]

At the same time RFY Oil Pan was installed for some extra oil capacity and baffle plate:

How it came from Japan:

The OEM unit:

And RFY unit with the Spoon heat barrier installed to protect from front exhaust headers:

Will take some better pictures next time I have the car on a lift!

Now the weight math:

OEM:

RFY:

-2,59 + 5,51 = + 2,92 Kg (+6,44 lbs) but the extra weight is low on the car and the extra oil and bafle will offer extra protection for the engine! So I'm happy with the trade

 

[BBVNSX]

Since I didn't have the time before, I removed the Cruise control CPU unit for some free weight savings:

-0,34 Kg (-0,75 lbs)

I already had a DF intake scoop, but replaced it with a CF unit, so ended up saving some weight even when compared to the smaller OEM resonator unit:

OEM:

CF scoop (looks so good ):

-0,57 + 0,49 = -0,08 Kg (-0,18 lbs)

 

[BBVNSX]

To finish in beauty some tribute photos: :

Will do a review on the OSG clutch later and will come with some more news... here is the clue:

 

[goldNSX]

Really looks good, esp. the new oil pan.

 

[Honcho]

Looking great! We have the same goal in mind.

 

[Mac Attack]

[MENTION=14824]BBVNSX[/MENTION]

Looks great!

I have to give you a hard time though - With your focus on weight reduction, why didn't you get the cross-drilled rotors that will weigh less than those heavy, slotted rotors? :biggrin:

A few words of caution on the brakes:

1) I see you haven't bedded in the pads yet. When I did mine recently, the repeated hard braking tore up my old front suspension bushings and now I need to replace them :frown: It looks like I'll be installing the Prothane polyurethane bushings or changing everything to monoballs (don't want to do) or buying new OEM ($$$$). Just something to be careful of. I could immediately tell when they tore. I was pissed and should have known to expect that....

2) I installed the same Stoptech Trophies on mine and if your front caliper adapting brackets were manufactured in the last 2 to 3 months (the date is on the packages), then you may have an issue. Stoptech acknowledged that they had a bad batch of these front brackets where the studs pull out when torquing down the jet nuts to their recommended 40 to 45 ft-lbs. They had to send me replacements, and the correct fix is to make them out of steel (that they are doing and sending to me). Just a word of caution. Hope yours weren't made during the last 2 to 3 months. My rear brackets torqued down fine.

 

[BBVNSX]

Really looks good, esp. the new oil pan.

Thanks gold! Oil pan is a great product from RFY!

Looking great! We have the same goal in mind.

Thanks Honcho! I follow your thread... What your doing is amazing my friend!

Looks great!

I have to give you a hard time though - With your focus on weight reduction, why didn't you get the cross-drilled rotors that will weigh less than those heavy, slotted rotors? :biggrin:

A few words of caution on the brakes:

1) I see you haven't bedded in the pads yet. When I did mine recently, the repeated hard braking tore up my old front suspension bushings and now I need to replace them :frown: It looks like I'll be installing the Prothane polyurethane bushings or changing everything to monoballs (don't want to do) or buying new OEM ($$$$). Just something to be careful of. I could immediately tell when they tore. I was pissed and should have known to expect that....

I have bedded them already, other than my eye globes popping out I had no other major problem

2) I installed the same Stoptech Trophies on mine and if your front caliper adapting brackets were manufactured in the last 2 to 3 months (the date is on the packages), then you may have an issue. Stoptech acknowledged that they had a bad batch of these front brackets where the studs pull out when torquing down the jet nuts to their recommended 40 to 45 ft-lbs. They had to send me replacements, and the correct fix is to make them out of steel (that they are doing and sending to me). Just a word of caution. Hope yours weren't made during the last 2 to 3 months. My rear brackets torqued down fine.

Lets say I'm a bit off on the schedule updating my thread so my trophy setup is at least from June.... so should be ok! But thanks for the heads up!

 

[Kozuchowski]

What about terrible metallic sounds when you press the clutch?
They bother me. I tried to fight them through own solutions but they didn't help.

You could have ordered a light flywheel for better engine response and weight saving.

 

[BBVNSX]

Sorry missed your post...

Well when I bought the OSG clutch I knew it would produce some noise, so for me it doesn't bother.

The OSG Flywheel is already lighter than OEM (5,21 Kg vs 6,99 Kg) so I decided not to go more extreme with that, as street driveability could be a problem...

What about terrible metallic sounds when you press the clutch?
They bother me. I tried to fight them through own solutions but they didn't help.

You could have ordered a light flywheel for better engine response and weight saving.

 

[MrHugo]

Any new updates? Still one of my favorite build thread.
What spec are your wheels and what center caps did you use? I would like to replicated what you did using honda caps.

Thanks,

 

[BBVNSX]

Hey MrHugo!

Yes... I need to update my build... Thanks for the kind words!

The Wheels are Prodrive GC-07J 17x7.5 ET+34 (Front) 18x9.5 ET+36 (Rears). I used the original Prodrive caps ans filled the engraved Prodrive characters, repainted, applied a vinil honda sticker and applied clear coat over it.

Any new updates? Still one of my favorite build thread.
What spec are your wheels and what center caps did you use? I would like to replicated what you did using honda caps.

Thanks,

 

[Honcho]

Any new updates? Still one of my favorite build thread.

Agree- this is one of my favorite builds on Prime. So tasteful!

 

[BBVNSX]

Thanks guys for the kind words! Picture of the car how it stands today:

Agree- this is one of my favorite builds on Prime. So tasteful!

 

[MrHugo]

Agree- this is one of my favorite builds on Prime. So tasteful!

So is your build. You and BBVNSX are my top 5 favorite build.

Thanks guys for the kind words! Picture of the car how it stands today:

Cannot wait for your updates.

 

[Honcho]

So is your build. You and BBVNSX are my top 5 favorite build.

Thanks guys for the kind words! Picture of the car how it stands today:

Cannot wait for your updates.

Thanks!

I can't get over how good those Prodrives look. Definitely my favorite non-OEM wheel.

 

[BBVNSX]

Will do a review on the OSG clutch later and will come with some more news... here is the clue:

Been a long time since my last update, so here goes the promised review on OS Giken STR2C clutch.

Pros:

- Light pedal effort, even when compared to OEM clutch
- Lightweight flywheel allows happier engine revs and easier to rev match when going through gears, but by no means is it a very light flywheel (I think there is still a margin to go lighter there)
- Much more on/off than OEM, but for me it is perfectly drivable, I just need to remember I'm driving my NSX for the first miles, after that my chip reprograms and I find the clutch very nice.
- Given the narrower engagement point of the clutch, and since there are no clutch springs on the friction discs, rev match is absolutely mandatory when driving the car, but for me that enhances the driving experience of the car. Drive the car the way it should (always rev match), and driving experience is really rewarding with this clutch.
- Building quality of this clutch looks great and it bolts to the car Like an OEM part!
- Clutch is almost chatter free and easy to modulate

Cons:

- Noise! there is noise when you depress the clutch pedal (only when fully depressed), a metallic rattling noise, that is not too high but is very audible outside and inside the car when the car is stopped. Once you start to drive the car you will not notice it as engine sound and road noise will not let you listen to it, also when driving you depress the clutch pedal for a small amount of time and that makes it even less audible.
- This is not a clutch for DD car, clutch is performance oriented and you can feel this whenever you drive the car. Driving the car on traffic roads would not be nice! Luckily I almost never drive my car on high traffic conditions!
- You need to rev match even If you are cruising the car at low speeds, or you will be rewarded with a good shake inside the car, going slowly and relaxed in to gears will not help as engine speed drops quickly and you will get the shake inside... releasing the clutch slowly will help though...


Conclusion:

Very happy with the clutch and would not go back to OEM, but I use this car on weekends and for driving pleasure, so my experience is based on the way I use the car. even If I think clutch is very drivable, I would not recommend it to someone daily driving the car, or using it for relaxed cruises... because this clutch is one of those parts that makes you a better driver, therefore it will ask you for more engagement while driving, more compromise and more "work" driving, but if you do so, it will reward your senses with more information, more feeling and more performance! And my NSX is all about that! Driving sensations and feeling behind the wheel!

 

[tomatoto]

I need the same helmet

 

[BBVNSX]

Time for the Stoptech BBK update!

Let me start by saying that there is nothing wrong with the OEM NSX brakes, they do their job quite well and much better than you would expect looking at floating calipers and rotor sizes, even if they are vented Front and Rear.

My main goals when deciding to go on a full BBK were:

- I wanted to reach the next level on pedal feeling and modulation, so fixed calipers was mandatory.
- I wanted to mimic NA2 NSX-R brake Bias, which is the same as any 1997+ NSX (forget the myth about R having the front 1991-96 Calipers with the rear 97+ calipers, it just is not true, the R has the exact same piston sizes as any 1997+ NSX). Stoptech, through its racing department, was the only company willing to work with me on a customized piston size setup, to mimic almost perfectly the desired bias.
- Some weight savings would be plus if possible, but it was clear for me that such a jump on rotor sizes would make it hard to happen. That also lead me on the direction of the trophy setup from Stoptech.
- Filling my 17/18 Prodrive wheels would also be a big improvement in looks in my opinion, and for me, the anodized Trophy setup just looks amazing!

The install:

Picture of the Calipers and Rotors out of the Box:

And a picture for size comparison on the front axle:

Install was carried by a friend who also is experienced mechanic, It came out to be quite straight forward, fast and trouble free, with all the parts fitting like OEM parts, showing that the kit was very well engineered for the NSX.

First we removed the OEM Parts, including the shields and did some cleaning:

Ready to start the assembling process, Front first then rear:

Installed Front:

Installed Rear:

Wheels on and ready to go bedding those bad boys:

As usual will share weight comparison for the parts and give my review!

 

[tomatoto]

Nice post, as usual !
can't wait to see the weight difference

 

[BBVNSX]

Nice post, as usual !
can't wait to see the weight difference

Thanks tomatoto! Before going to the weight difference, let me just give a bit more information about this:

- I wanted to mimic NA2 NSX-R brake Bias, which is the same as any 1997+ NSX (forget the myth about R having the front 1991-96 Calipers with the rear 97+ calipers, it just is not true, the R has the exact same piston sizes as any 1997+ NSX). Stoptech, through its racing department, was the only company willing to work with me on a customized piston size setup, to mimic almost perfectly the desired bias.

The reason I wanted to mimic the NSX-R bias was because I already had the NSX-R ABS upgrade, and I decided to also get the NSX-R specific Brake booster and master cylinder!
I know NSX-R is RHD but after looking at some pictures and diagrams of the booster and master I was quite sure it would be possible to fit the parts in a LHD NSX with minimal to no modifications, as long as you get the booster and master together.
Please be advised that it won't be possible to upgrade only the booster or the master alone, because each of those two parts are made to work together and won't work with the regular NSX parts.
With booster and master in, I realized that I was not wrong, all that was needed was to modify one of the terminals from a brake line that attach to the master cylinder (change the fitting nut for a bigger one - I could find one that works on my old brake lines from old ABS unit).

I didn't take pictures from the install itself, but here the final product:

Here a before picture for reference (you can see the master bolts to the booster on a different postion when compared to the NSX-R):

Here you can see the modification needed on one of the brake line terminals to make it bolt to the master cylinder (bigger nut needed):

In the end I was a happy guy! :biggrin: Finaly I finished my brake project! Full NSX-R setup, with costumized Stoptech BBK, with more rear bias to match the 97+ (and NSX-R) bias!

Will also share the weight savings when upgrading to NSX-R master and booster! I was not expecting weight savings... but there are!

 

[BBVNSX]

Ok! Lets start the math! :biggrin:

Stoptech upgrade - Front Axle:

OEM (per wheel) - 13,48 Kg (29,72 lbs)

Stoptech (Per wheel) - 11,11 Kg (24,49 lbs)

Stoptech upgrade - Rear Axle:

OEM (per wheel) - 11,57 Kg (25,51 lbs)

Stoptech (Per wheel) - 14,25 Kg (31,42 lbs)

So when doing the math you will get:

Front Axle (two corners): 2x(-13,48 Kg + 11,11 Kg) = 2x(-2,37 Kg) = -4,74 Kg (-10,45 lbs) Quite impressive, having in mind the upgrade in size to 328 mm rotors!

Rear Axle (two corners): 2x(-11,57 kg+ 14,25 kg) = 2x(2,68 Kg) = +5,36 Kg (+11,82 lbs) If you're wondering why the weight gain, well most of it comes from the dedicated parking brake caliper - 2,66 Kg (5,86 lbs) per corner, here:

Here some weight comparisions for reference:

OEM Front Rotor / OEM Rear Rotor / Stoptech Rotor (they are the same front and rear) - You will notice that in the front the stoptech rotor is lighter than OEM despite the massive increase in diameter:

OEM Front Caliper / OEM Rear Caliper / Stoptech Caliper (they are the same front and rear) - big weight savings here:

So in the end the full Stoptech Trophy BBK upgrade (4 corners with parking brake dedicated calipers) comes at:

F(-4,74 Kg) + R(+5,36 Kg) = +0,62 Kg (+1,37 lbs) But I think it is more than worth it, especially if we take into account the massive increase in the size of the brake discs!

And remember I still have to do the math on the NSX-R Booster and Master!