BBSC Boost Problems

coldhammer said:
So now the car is running 8 lbs of boost successfully. But alas there seems to be a new problem. Well this isnt actually a new problem so much as revisiting one of the original problems.

It seems im getting a lot of random variations in driveablity between drives. Keep in mind that the car is now running an AEM unit.

For instance during one drive the car will stutter noticibly at low throttle, like its not getting enough fuel or something to that effect.

Then the next time i drive the car the stuttering is "almost" completely gone but when sitting still the idle fluctuates widly, sometimes to the point of stalling out.

I had similar problems, although it wasn't as bad as you describe. One of the culprits was a bad splice job on the MAP sensor (my fault). Cheers,

-mike
 
Back to the belt problem have a set of COG pulley's built. No more slippage. Then spend the money on tuneing. I hope it works out for you. I will let you know who builds my COG pulley's.
 
I wanted to give an update on my car and get some feedback from you guys. First I would like to give a special thanks to Devin for all his help and taking a look at my maps and making some suggestions. All in all the car runs well enough. I think the maps could still use some further fine tuning on the drivability side of things but unfortunately the shop I have been going to is so overbooked now they just don’t have the time to tweak the maps any further.

With that said my last dyno pull showed 368 whp with 234 torque at 7.8 psi. The shop did not have the a/f monitor hooked up so I didn’t get a read out to go along with the chart. However my A/F is running a steady between 11.5 and 12.

Given my current setup:

Basch Boost Supercharger Kit (NOVI 1000 version) w/ 8lb boost pulley
550 cc injectors
AEM
AEM Wideband sensor
DC Sports exhaust
JE Forged Pistons 9.5 Compression Ratio with floating wrist pins.

Do you guys feel that the results are inline with expectation?

I cant seem to figure out how to insert an image so I amlinking to the dyno map here: http://www.rune-interactive.com/nsx/dyno_8psi.jpg


On a second note it has now become time for me to invest in a cooling solution. I am also considering implementing cryo cooling in addition to a good I/C or A/C setup. I was looking at either the sprayer version of the air intake version. You can see them here: http://www.carstyling.net/features/products/deicry02.php

Does anyone have any suggestions for an I/C or A/C solution that maintains a low profile once installed (I don’t want a big box sticking up out of the engine bay).

The current setup I am looking at is the liquid to barrel intercooler located here: http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm (3rd one down) with possibly using the air intake version of the cryo cooling to go along with it.

Let me know what you guys think.
 
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Looks like it is running MUCH stronger. That must be a lot more fun to drive.

TQ still looks low to me. Andy has a dyno on his with 8lbs and it made 383 and 260TQ. You are pretty close. I think with a little more work, you could be there.
 
I think the difference may lie in that I am not getting a full 8lbs of boost. But I wouldnt think that 7.8 would result in that significant of a difference.
 
yone have any suggestions for an I/C or A/C solution that maintains a low profile once installed (I don’t want a big box sticking up out of the engine bay).
What's wrong with a setup like Woody has?
 
No matter what you choose for your intercooling/aftercooling option. Do NOT use the PWR barrel liquid to air aftercooler. We have tried this unit on a drag car and it is useless. Mainly because of the tube and fin design. It flows a lot of cfm... but cools nothing.

As far as intercooling or aftercooling goes... The link that KGP posted shows a good option for aftercooling with a liquid to air. Otherwise you can do an air to air underneath the car. We did this on a customers car and it worked out very well for him.

BTW, where are you located?
 
With that said my last dyno pull showed 268 whp with 234 torque at 7.8 psi


I hope you meant "383"???? 268 is less than stock! BTW my IC works great. I have autotap and I have never seen my IAT > 130 even in the summer. I am currently at 9bs boost (I will let you know the temps at 11LBS soon!
 
WOODY said:
With that said my last dyno pull showed 268 whp with 234 torque at 7.8 psi


I hope you meant "383"???? 268 is less than stock! BTW my IC works great. I have autotap and I have never seen my IAT > 130 even in the summer. I am currently at 9bs boost (I will let you know the temps at 11LBS soon!


dyno shows max 368 rwhp and 234 rwtq.

Not bad IMO for 8 psi. Looking briefy at the dyno plot, he makes less than me but ran his NSX to 8500 rpm, so his peak was higher.. kinda high for my tastes! one thing of interest is that he continues to make increasing HP with zero fall off in the curve, right up to 8500..

Is this the difference between a novi 1000 and 2000, or he makes less hp because of lower compression and no aftercooler?
 
I am located in the Atlanta area. Thanks for the heads up about the PWR intercooler.

I saw some pics of the air to air install you guys did. However I did not think that application would work for me as I do not have the rear diffuser like the car you installed it on.

I will take a look at woodys setup.
 
coldhammer,

Your car looks much improved! I wonder if the low TQ numbers are because of the 9.5 CR pistons?

Rite after I finished my blower install, before any tuning (just got it running good enough to drive around without a dangerous afr) I dynoed my car to get a baseline. It looks about the same until the afr goes really rich over 6k rpm at which point it starts breaking up. Until then however, I was recording more torque.... at the time the car was basically the same config, except I have the oem pistons/cr and the novi 2000.

I've attached a link to the dyno graph if it might help at all..
http://www.blazen.com/mike/flyingmonkey/dyno02-031805_orig.JPG

edit: i'm still running oem headers.

-mike
 
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