Did you check the DRW module located in the front (bonnet), this is connected to the throttle pedal via a cable. As it seem that you have checked everything else in the engine bay.
Just trying to help.
Bram
Do you mean the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor in the black box by the master Cylinder? i had that apart last night. Throttle cable felt a little slack, tightened it slightly. ensuring full closure.
I was hoping i could swap that with a tps sensor i have spare but it's a different module, bigger and more wires.
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Black spark plugs suggest an abnormal condition. If they are flat black (like soot) then you are running rich. If they are shiny (oily) black then you have an oil consumption problem. If you are running fine wire plugs (iridium, platinum, etc) the insulator nose on the sparkplug would typically be a very light tan to almost whitish appearance (but should not look glazed or like white sugar - very bad!). This assumes stock heat range on the sparkplugs and an unmodified engine. Are you running sparkplugs with a heat range that is significantly colder than stock? This would result in a darker colored spark plug than normal. Assuming your sparkplugs are sooty black, suggesting a rich fuel/air mixture, an obvious candidate is a blocked air filter, which is not on your list of replaced items. Higher than specified fuel pressure will also cause a rich fuel/air mixture. I am not particularly familiar with the error codes on the pre OBDII EMS systems. If there is an error code for fuel mix out-of-range then you should be getting that code if your mixture is off enough to cause black plugs. Check the on-line service manual to find out whether there are any mixture out of range codes. The drive by wire system is a pretty simple servo motor. I have never touched mine; however, you should be able to find the test procedure in the on-line service manual. However, I don't expect that the drive by wire system is the cause of what you describe. My comments about wiring problems with the TPS could relate to a bad or loose connector at the TPS or a broken wire or intermittent connection in the wiring harness that connects the TPS to the EMS. However, given what you describe, I am thinking that the TPS is not the problem. Final question, is your engine and EMS stock or has it been modified? If it has been modified, then all bets are off!
I will take some pics of the spark plugs tonight, i don't recall any white on them. They would of been supplied by SOS and i would have purchased correct heat range as i double check with them before placing orders. I will check part numbers tonight. The new plugs i fitted are the Iridium IX and heat range as recommended. Still plays up with them.
All the internals of my engine are currently stock. I have bolt ons like intake, headers, system etc.
Funny enough, the garage pulled out my filter and said it was filthy, they cleaned it and replaced it. I do have a spare, i could swap out. It's the downforce filter which i recall is oiled, i don't think they would have oiled it after cleaning. Not sure if that matters?
Where are the earths for the DBW system? I will check and clean them.
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Oh and another perhaps important update.
I had to drive it this morning, as i'll see the mechanic tonight again.
The engine light tripped again, the problem happened exactly 4,000 revs every time. I have a different final drive, so my 4,000 revs may be the same as someone elses slightly higher or lower. It usually happens around the 4,000 mark but when it really plays up you can't use the throttle any where in the rev range but this morning it was persistent at 4,000 revs.
Also the throttle is very snappy when you back off, release your foot off the throttle the car doesnt feel to smoothly reduce revs of speed, the initial release off the pedal is jerky (snappy) once it's snapped once it will gradually reduce speed.
Also if you was to down shift even when the problem is bad it will down shift without no problems at all. i mean down shifting at high revs. It does that with no problem at all. i think it's because your off the throttle pedal and allowing the engine to do it's thing.
I did have the car compression tested and all came back good.
I did notice when removing the spark plugs there was oil up couple of the threads of the spark plugs and a couple of the coil packs had a little oil on their stems.
I have also noticed, one of the lines coming from the Vacuum box has been blanked off at the metal tube part on top of the throttle body, this vacuum comes from the control box and goes to the Dashpots which i believe have been removed or just not connected.
I would like to say, i do really look after my car. I replace the oil more frequently than required both engine and gearbox, i replace parts before they are needed to be replaced, i replace any parts when i see a horror story on prime about certain parts failing. the spark plugs get changed yearly. I never run it on anything but high grade pump fuel mainly from only Shell.
I think it's odd how it's got progressively worse, and some times it's really bad, some times it's bearable and drivable and other times it's completely fine with no issue at all. When i say progressively worse i mean happens more frequently. When it's bad it will play up the entire day stopping and turning the car off and on and if it's a good day you can turn it off and on with no issues. But like i say i used to have more good days than bad but now it's more bad days than good. I hardly ever get a good day now.
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Just had a thought...
The sensor up front for accelerator pedal position is also for the cruise control?
Well... I removed my cruise control ages ago!! fitted a hub kit supplied by SOS, the wheels had cruise control, what if... the cables inside the hub have broke down because it's tight in there?
Where is the cruise control module on the bulk head? could i unplug it? or pull a fuse to bypass the cruise control? to rule it out?
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Just had a thought...
The sensor up front for accelerator pedal position is also for the cruise control?
Well... I removed my cruise control ages ago!! fitted a hub kit supplied by SOS, the wheels had cruise control, what if... the cables inside the hub have broke down because it's tight in there?
Where is the cruise control module on the bulk head? could i unplug it? or pull a fuse to bypass the cruise control? to rule it out?
Batman, have you removed your oem wheel? might make sense why yours only happens while turning left.
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