Average Joe's First Project Car & Childhood Dream Log

To bleed the clutch, I did some reading here on nsxprime and watched a few youtube videos. I also used the service manual and this website http://www.c-speedr.com/howto/nsx/clutchmasterslave/nsx_clutch_master_slave_change.php.

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I first removed the old fluid from the clutch master reservoir using a syringe that I had politely asked for at a pharmacy. I knew they give them out for free with kids medications, but I asked if I could purchase one. Surely enough, they gave me one free of charge! After I removed the old fluid, I used q-tips (aka cotton swabs, cotton buds) to remove the crud that accumulated at the bottom of the reservoir. I know I missed the corners but I didn't want to run into the house again, take off my shoes, take off my coverall, and wash my hands again to get toothpicks from my kitchen.

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I cut a segment of an old hose that was used on my fish tank and attached it to the bleed nipple. I filled an empty water bottle with some brake fluid. The bleed nipple was rusted and I had trouble unscrewing it, so I got my dad involved. He pumped the clutch pedal but still no dice. I gently knocked on it with the wrench and it started flowing. I didn't use the gravity bleed method, instead I used the technique where one person pumps the clutch pedal, then holds it down. After the second person opens the bleed nipple to bleed and closes it while the pedal is still down. My dad also monitored the reservoir to not let it run dry and refilled when the fluid level was low. We did this until the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple was clear. Not sure if this was the right way to do it but the pedal felt firmer after the flush and I read that the system will over time bleed the air out - provided that there isn't too much air introduced into the system.

I didn't take any pictures while I was under the car because I had brake fluid dripping down my arms and into my coverall from the unexpected initial flow. It was dark out by the time my dad and I finished.

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Here are the battle scars or battle bruises I should say? The whole process probably took 6 hours for both the transmission and clutch fluid from buying the hose to jacking up the car and moving the concrete blocks to underneath the four tires.

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The next item on my punch list was the passenger side door lock mechanism. The issue with it was that the doors couldn't be locked/unlocked from the passenger side. This was disclosed to me by the previous owner when I first went to see the car.

I prepared myself by going through the service manual and watched these two videos on youtube on the disassembly of the door panel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0Y4V6sTk_E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW51BtfPnYQ

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I used a tongue depressor to carefully remove the two top trim pieces and the trim plate behind the handle.

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The trim plate behind the handle was probably the most difficult part to remove for me.

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Finally removed the entire panel to discover that aftermarket Kappa door speakers are installed, along with bits and pieces of duct tape and masking tape holding up the weather seal. I'll probably install a brand new oem weather seal down the road but not now. Might also consider getting oem speakers or something better in the future.

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I tried to make some sense of what I was looking at and how the entire mechanism works.

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Turns out the lock rod came apart from its joint. I noticed the rod was coming out of the joint orifice with the slightest pressure, so I applied crazy glue to the tip of the rod and inserted it back in. Worked like a charm and hasn't given me a problem since I put it back together over a year ago. Maybe when it becomes a problem again, I'll look into replacing the joint with a new unit from Honda.

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Luckily, my hands were able to fit in there without too much force.

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I found an odd looking fastener, so I am guessing whoever disassembled the panel before probably lost the original screw. Therefore, they just used another screw that was similar in size. I ordered a new one from Honda to keep it consistent.

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Awesome progress man!<script>(function () { var pb_blacklist = 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Thank you!
 
Doesn't it suck how much those oem screws cost? Lol
 
Getting to those door locks are a pita especially when trying to replace door lock sensors. There are a few plastic lock clips that can break, but thankfully all are still available from the dealer. whew!
 
Since the AC doesn't work, so I need to rely on the windows and fan sometimes. Therefore, I thought it would be a good idea to add a cabin air filter as the NSX did not come with one from the factory.

I went through the two following thread:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/191706-Cabin-Filter
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-instructions*-cost-10?highlight=cabin+filter

There's one available from SOS but it's really pricey (starts at $650), so I went with the options that people had suggested in the above two threads.

The following filters were suggested:
-Fram CA9115 (Toyota Echo & Scion XB air filter)
-Napa 6646
-Purolator A34717


I went with the Fram CA9115. It's a bit longer than the length of the opening but it still fits snuggly if you fit it between the filter slit, the width was perfect. There is a noticeable reduction in the air flow from installing this filter.

jNHN3hI.jpg



I removed the clips that hold this rubber lining and cowl down. I applied force directly up with my fingers on the bottom of each clip and they popped right off. Then I removed the rubber lining on the edge.

bJqMOCc.jpg


dUuVdU0.jpg



I'll probably lift the cowl up again to do some cleaning when I install the new clips.

PBpv37j.jpg



Most of the cowl clips snapped into pieces as soon as they popped off. Instead of purchasing each one for $6 from a Honda dealership, I ordered 20 for $6-8 on Ebay. Lead time for the Ebay clips were about 2 months as I had selected free shipping.

mnam3sH.jpg
 
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@PhAnToM I can imagine haha. Are the door lock sensors prone to failure?

I don't think it's very common. There are only a handful of threads discussing the topic, but the manual from the wiki helped once I made sense of what was what.

Oh, and btw my weather seal plastic looked a whole lot worse than how yours were. lol I just don't get how someone would use duct tape on it.
 
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I don't think it's very common. There are only a handful of threads discussing the topic, but the manual from the wiki helped once I made sense of what was what.

Oh, and btw my weather seal plastic looked a whole lot worse than how yours were. lol I just don't get how someone would use duct tape on it.

Good to hear that you were able to fix the issue. Actually I removed the old duct tape and neatly applied new bright yellow duct tape haha.
 
Around this time last year I had fractured my left big toe from volleyball, so I didn't get to work on the car nor did I get to drive it either since I had to wear one of these to immobilize the toe:

NMdqMFk.jpg


The doctor told me it would take 2-3 months to heal, however I believe after a week I had already stopped wearing it. A month and a half later, I was already back at the gym and playing in a soccer league.

Not much was done to the car since it was getting cold out and it got dark quick, so I just drove it a bit before the arrival of the first snow fall.

5PFoJ2j.jpg


0SfE218.jpg


Fh9qZNW.jpg


ybkD65W.jpg


iTdLRQp.jpg


It's nice having your car parked and seeing people take pictures of it, really shows that some people appreciate these classic cars. I have also had people come up to me at parking lots and chatting me up on it.

BylbXgs.jpg
 
Time to continue and catch up on my journal since I'm a year behind...

So to prepare for the first winter hibernation (December 2016), I did some cleaning and also read some of the winter storage threads on prime.

I have the oem car cover that came with my car but I ordered a new nsx specific cover from CarCoverDirect (Covercraft Custom Fit Car Covers Block-It Noah Gray) since I wanted to preserve the original one.

RZm2UAf.jpg


The fitment is perfect and the material is strong, waterproof, breathable and seems to be very durable. I am using it for the second year now and it still looks like new from the box, given that I don't leave it exposed directly to the sun and precipitation.

v4xU3ky.jpg


I did have an issue with CarCoversDirect since they overcharged me on the cover and couldn't provide me with a detailed breakdown of the cost when I requested for it. The attendant told me it was from the currency difference (USD to CAD), however, I responded that even if the exchange rate was taken at the peak, it couldn't have been that high of an amount. Therefore, the attendant took the exchange rate of that day and refunded me the difference. Took some time but the attendant was responsive and took action quickly.

I also gave the car a quick vacuum and discovered a large stain in the carpet and a toonie ($2) under the passenger seat!

eeRWWtu.jpg


I gave the car a good wash and wax and left Bounce sheets inside the car. I used bricks as wheel chocks so I can disengage the handbrake and leave the car in neutral. All of this just days before the first snow fall.

mi8qAvY.jpg
 
Very nice write up and detail. I wish I had taken more pictures of my build but I suffer from getdoneitis.
 
Time to update my thread since I am a year behind...

So summer of 2017 arrived and I was getting the car out of winter mode. I had forgotten to disconnect the battery since I had intended to start the car periodically during the winter months but that didn't happen.

To nobody's surprise the car didn't start. I tried jumping the car but that didn't work. Left it charging for 10 minutes and still no dice.

I finally decided to just replace the battery. It wasn't too difficult to take the old battery out, I just had to unfasten and remove the spare battery bracket first to gain access.

i4adxkE.jpg


Spare tire bracket out!

Z9QPuGR.jpg


Found a huge pebble wedged under the spare tire bracket.

CsAfEiy.jpg


Battery out.

EXJHsHE.jpg


I discovered that my car had the group-24F battery in it, which is the larger battery found in the automatic variation. The manual ones came with the smaller group-35. After calling Honda, I was quoted $180-190 for the group-35 so I decided to go with non OEM.

rdB5bxA.jpg
 
After researching and reading a few threads on nsxprime, a lot of members had recommended the Costco batteries since the warranty was so good and the manufacturer for the Kirkland brand is actually a very reputable battery manufacturer.

The smaller and lighter group-35 battery I got from Costco only cost me $115 + 13% tax = $130. Comes with free replacement for the first three (3) years and reduced amount there on after for seven (7) years.

R912okh.jpg


I also did some brief wiping of the front bay while I was at it since it was filthy.

JoiGphb.jpg


After connecting the battery, the car started right away on first try. I also left the spare tire bracket out since I was unsure if I was going to take the battery out and store it inside the house when winter comes.
 
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Most of the cowl clips snapped into pieces as soon as they popped off. Instead of purchasing each one for $6 from a Honda dealership, I ordered 20 for $6-8 on Ebay. Lead time for the Ebay clips were about 2 months as I had selected free shipping.

mnam3sH.jpg

Do you have the part# for these clips?
 
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