Auto/Manual conversion begins

[SweetChuck]

Its one thing to dismantle such a thing , "IT'S ANOTHER THING TO RE ASSIGN AND
RE-ASSEMBLE "

Was it worth it ?? HELL YES !!!!!!!!


Wow how dead easy is the NSX engine to pull out . I spent a few hours last night pulling the manual engine out of the half Cut I bought ( Air Tools help)
I wont be so Gung-Ho Going about it when I do my car though :biggrin: During the week I will strip the rest of the bits off the chassis and scrap metal it , I should get about $2 a Kilo for the Aluminium.

Having so much fun with it despite having cuts all over my knuckles .
Will post pics and procedures as I go .

The 94 model manual engine has 20k miles on it , should I even bother checking the clutch out ???

 

[nsxot1c]

Very cool!! I would definitely check out the clutch while it's out, definitely can't hurt and would almost IMO be worth replacing at this time with it out...

 

[SweetChuck]

My thoughts exactly , but I was hoping someone would would tell me what I wanted to hear and say Nah it will be fine :wink: Bit broke ATM but I suppose I should do the right thing and do the timing belt as well hey

Very cool!! I would definitely check out the clutch while it's out, definitely can't hurt and would almost IMO be worth replacing at this time with it out...

 

[HYPERTUNE]

Definately do the timing belt, as although it has low k's it may have been sitting around for a while. The clutch will most likely be fine, but it may be worth putting a new release bearing in it for the same reason....

 

[ak]

Nice...good luck with the project You should replace all rubber gaskets in addition to the timing belt as mentioned above. It'll be so much easier while the engine is out.

 

[whrdnsx]

Though I might add to this thread since I'm in a silimar situation.

I have just installed an Automatic interior Harness into my Manual Nsx. (Only one could Find)
I haven't tried to start the car yet but I'm wondering If something in the Harness needs to be modified in the way of the Neutral/Park switch on the Auto Models to allow the Engine to start on the Manual now.

I did a search & one member mentioned changing the harness to put the switch on the Clutch Pedal. But no details as to what connector/pins etc are used.

As wiring is not one of my strong points if someone could shed some light on this it would be appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

 

[SweetChuck]

OHHH look I'm nearly there , I can pretend anyways :tongue:

Something you don't see everyday

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

should I even bother checking the clutch out ???

I would if it was mine. Why it's out go over everything.

During the week I will strip the rest of the bits off the chassis and scrap metal it , I should get about $2 a Kilo for the Aluminium.

A shame to let it go to waste. Maybe the living room? I could see the trunk as a planter and the front... seat and a playstation :biggrin:

... Maybe a new head board for the bedroom? :smile:

 

[SweetChuck]

A shame to let it go to waste. Maybe the living room? I could see the trunk as a planter and the front... seat and a playstation :biggrin:

... Maybe a new head board for the bedroom? :smile:

I was hoping the panels,bumber tail lights and boot were in tact , it would have made a great Barbeque , lift the trunk to flip your steaks.

Like this http://freshome.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/holden_monero_grill_3.jpg

 

[MJK]

This is a cool project, thanks for posting.

Any chance you would be willing to document the engine removal as sortof a DIY?

 

[SweetChuck]

This is a cool project, thanks for posting.

Whats cool , the Barbeque or the conversion ???? :tongue:


Oh I took the half chassis to the recyclers and guess how much it weighed ??? 94 KG's ,,, WTF !!! why did it have to be so light I made 120 bucks , what a waste of time , they would only give me $1.30 a kilo .

 

[OLDMNSX]

I would disconnect the transmission from the engine and at least measure the two clutch disks and compare to the specs in the maintenance manual and then decide what you want to do.

I agree on the timing belt. Look real close at the weep hole on the water pump for signs of any leakage. If not, only replace it if it is the old style pump otherwise let it go. It will go till the next belt change with clean anti-freeze coolant. Don't forget to check the valves while you have the covers off too.

I hope that you have the CV axles for the manual transmission, cuz I think that they are different from the automatic. The transmission upper mount is different also.

Good Luck on the retro fit. Keep us up to date.

Brad

 

[SweetChuck]

I would disconnect the transmission from the engine and at least measure the two clutch disks and compare to the specs in the maintenance manual and then decide what you want to do.

I agree on the timing belt. Look real close at the weep hole on the water pump for signs of any leakage. If not, only replace it if it is the old style pump otherwise let it go. It will go till the next belt change with clean anti-freeze coolant. Don't forget to check the valves while you have the covers off too.

I hope that you have the CV axles for the manual transmission, cuz I think that they are different from the automatic. The transmission upper mount is different also.

Good Luck on the retro fit. Keep us up to date.

Brad

Right you are , clutch ,valves lash etc , I have everything for the conversion except pedals and the gear shifter mount and clutch line . I do have clutch master cyl and dampener , cv axles etc

 

[SweetChuck]

HUMmmm , Snag number one , its gonna be a real PITA if not impossible to get the stock hydraulic clutch hard line through the body . I think it acually passes through the chassis rail cavity
So forget that! I will have to get some flexy teflon line and re route it , No real biggie , if this is my only major problem , thats ok .

One more concern is I think the manual driveshaft CV may have been damaged in the wreckage , again no huge deal , just annoying .
Everything seems to be going to plan for next weeks effort . Wish me luck :smile:

 

[KANE]

HUMmmm , Snag number one , its gonna be a real PITA if not impossible to get the stock hydraulic clutch hard line through the body . I think it acually passes through the chassis rail cavity
So forget that! I will have to get some flexy teflon line and re route it , No real biggie , if this is my only major problem , thats ok .

One more concern is I think the manual driveshaft CV may have been damaged in the wreckage , again no huge deal , just annoying .
Everything seems to be going to plan for next weeks effort . Wish me luck :smile:

the clutch hardline from front to rear routes with the brakelines inside the passenger compartment next to the framerail.It goes through the body at the back of the passenger compartment and into the cavity where the gas tank is. Then it snakes up and out to the damper on the firewall.

I actually know this because I have done the complete auto to manual conversion(LHD) I had the same worry about that hardline at first. I used all used parts except for that line.

Let me know if you have any more questions

thanks

Ravi
www.umbrellaautodesign

 

[OzzieJohn]

Ricky I thought you were crazy with your plan to buy an auto and immediately start this conversion.... but it is fun seeing you prove me wrong! More pics!!

 

[SweetChuck]

So you didn't use the hard line ?? and opted for something else . I couldnt figure out exactly where it went studying the halfcut , for obvious reasons .

Yes John I am crazy! More pics when something more exciting happens. I am still prepping the M/T engine , Timing belt , clutch , valve lash etc.
The fun happens next week when "fingers crossed" the missing puzzle pieces arrive.

You know what is crazy though , by the time I'm finished this will have cost me no more a few scrapped knuckles . Think about it :biggrin:

the clutch hardline from front to rear routes with the brakelines inside the passenger compartment next to the framerail.It goes through the body at the back of the passenger compartment and into the cavity where the gas tank is. Then it snakes up and out to the damper on the firewall.

I actually know this because I have done the complete auto to manual conversion(LHD) I had the same worry about that hardline at first. I used all used parts except for that line.

Let me know if you have any more questions

thanks

Ravi
www.umbrellaautodesign

 

[MvM]

Oh I took the half chassis to the recyclers and guess how much it weighed ??? 94 KG's ,,, WTF !!! why did it have to be so light I made 120 bucks , what a waste of time , they would only give me $1.30 a kilo .

Too bad you already took the chassis to the recylers.
Would have been a nice opportunity to take some good pictures of the way the chassis of the NSX is made (chassis bars cross section etc.).

 

[Paul Days]

Chuck,

I'm being audience here, this is a project which maybe one day i'll do, so please try to keep notes so then hyou can do a decent write up for prime members to use.

Paul

 

[SweetChuck]

Will do

Chuck,

I'm being audience here, this is a project which maybe one day i'll do, so please try to keep notes so then hyou can do a decent write up for prime members to use.

Paul

 

[SweetChuck]

I would have taken some more shots , But seriously that chassis had to go ASAP . It was full of Huntsmans . For those who don't know what that is , think Spiders the size of your hand :wink:
For some reason they seem to love living in car bodies . They don't bother me at all , I just chuck them outside , but the Wife is petrified and spray paints em white with flyspray , it pisses me off

Too bad you already took the chassis to the recylers.
Would have been a nice opportunity to take some good pictures of the way the chassis of the NSX is made (chassis bars cross section etc.).

 

[Veleno]

What's that hole midway on the center of the firewall? It looks like it's for a speaker but I'm not sure... I'll look at mine to see if I have that as well.

 

[SweetChuck]

What's that hole midway on the center of the firewall? It looks like it's for a speaker but I'm not sure... I'll look at mine to see if I have that as well.

It for the fuel Float guage , which is really silly , as it would have been better suited for access for the fuel pump .

 

[SweetChuck]

Are both Drive shafts different for the auto/manual ?? Or just the one that connects directly to the Transmission , I think One of them was damaged in the smash , and I'm betting its the one I need

 

[SweetChuck]

I thought I'd posts some pics of the timing belt change while I'm at it .
A trick for young players , if your a cheap ass like me and don't want spend $$$ on the Pully tool . I bought a $5 , 46mm nut that fits perfectly and the 19mm socket fits right through the middle . It works , but HOLY COW !! it was on tight . I had to put my entire body weight on to crack it .