Anyone tried out the 2002 Type-R strut bar?

The tow hook can be retained. When installed, you remove the left bracket and the width of the bar's mounting holes are correct. You can see an illustration of that here:

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/focus.asp?product=epp-561

Note that the upper bar will contact larger sway bars like the Dali track bar.

Regards,
-- Chris

------------------
Revolutionize your NSX with ScienceofSpeed
www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520

[This message has been edited by ScienceofSpeed (edited 04 January 2003).]
 
I had both bars installed on my 96 with ct swaybars and no problems.I've only driven some highway miles due to weather and the only thing I notice is more squeaking behind me involving the leather trim pieces around my harness bar.I figure on a targa the stiffer you make the frame the higher up the frame the twisting forces will increase so my weakest link is the roof.
 
Originally posted by docjohn:
I had both bars installed on my 96 with ct swaybars and no problems.I've only driven some highway miles due to weather and the only thing I notice is more squeaking behind me involving the leather trim pieces around my harness bar.I figure on a targa the stiffer you make the frame the higher up the frame the twisting forces will increase so my weakest link is the roof.

While your battery tray is different (parallel bars are narrower in width than the 97+ tray), just curious, what sway bar hole are you using for the front, the neutral position or the stiffer? If it is the holes further from the edge of the sway bar tip, I assume this will raise the clearance to the battery tray no?
 
Hy Hrant,My bar is full stiff up front-I know this sounds like porno, but the nsx is sexy!
 
Just wondering guys, are the front bar mounting holes already there (for whatever reason), or do you have to drill (and tap?) new mounting holes to accomodate the bar?
 
Hi,

I installed both bars on my Zanardi with a jack and a set of rhino ramps. It took about 15 minutes for the bottom bar - nothing special just had to drop part of the battery tray to be able to snake the bar into place.

The front bar was a little more involved. I destroyed all of the push-pin "thingys" when I removed them to get the radiator shroud out. I guess you should order a bag or two of these before you begin :-)

I used an exacto knife to trim the shroud. My only point of dificulty was the tow bars. Apparently on the older cars the bracket is one piece. This allows for the front bar brackets to mount flush. The brackets on my car had a gusset welded to the side of the tow bar. This screwed up the spacing so I got a grinder and cut out the part of the gusset that interfered with the mounting. this took about 45 minutes. After I did this everything fit perfectly.

Can I tell a difference in handling? No way, I can't drive nearly well enough to tell a difference :-)

Hope this helps
 
I am still searching for an answer from the vendors ....

Has anyone installed the strut bars on a 97+ with Comptech aftermarket sway bars. I doubt very much that the sway bars and the strut bar that goes under it will clear the battery tray.

Does the Zanardi have the same battery tray as the 97+ ..... and the same brackets for the front bar?
 
Hi Hrant --

These are not strut bars, they do not link the upper mounts directly, and the NSX does not use struts. Rather, I believe the correct term is "chassis reinforcement bars".

The upper bar behind the radiator may rub against the Comptech sway bars, Dali "race" and "track" sway bars based on my experience and others. The clearance between these bars and even the factory bars are very tight. I do not believe this is a concern, however, you may hear some noise.

Since the battery trays of the 1997+ are shaped differently, I'll check fitment on the upper bar tomorrow at the shop. The front bar should not be a problem at all.

Regards,
-- Chris

Originally posted by Hrant:
I am still searching for an answer from the vendors ....

Has anyone installed the strut bars on a 97+ with Comptech aftermarket sway bars. I doubt very much that the sway bars and the strut bar that goes under it will clear the battery tray.

Does the Zanardi have the same battery tray as the 97+ ..... and the same brackets for the front bar?



------------------
Revolutionize your NSX with ScienceofSpeed
www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520
 
Bump - still interested in this...

Questions for those with experiance:

- Driving differences with just the easy to do front bar (less/more understeer, turn in response, steering feel, track vs street)

- Same question for those that did both

- Those with Dali bars - rubbing / clunking?

Thanks!
 
I installed the easy one and have Dali street bars. No rubbing there. No noise.
Noticed slightly heavier steering feel and improved tracking on high speed sweepers.
The whole car seems more solid. I can't wait to get the other one installed but it seems like a real pain in the ass to do.
Can anyone tell me do you install the second bar from the top of the car or from underneath?
With the price of those push pins I want to destroy as few as I need;-)
 
I now have one track event and more miles on the car and have both reenforcement bars up front.I have no unusual noises and no contact with CT sway bar.If you are really interrested in the fitment and proccess try contacting MJ,he sent me some nice stills of the proccess.My tech spent about 1.5 hours doing both.I think the car pushes less with this mod(subtle)and I think there is more flex at roof level for the reasons stated earlier in this thread.
 
Real strut bars

I just had installed real strut bars (should be the connection between the two shock/spring domes at the top) front and rear. They are both custom made by my techies. The rear has the same mounting points as the strut bar that is on stock T-models (I have a non-T '98 cp.), but is thicker and red powdercoated (looks nice).

The front bar has also 2 mounting points at each side and just clears the kinematic of the windshield wiper. It's also red but has a "screw" in the middle where you can adjust the length. Sorry - no pics yet.

I drove it on the track and had no big effect on flat parts but noticed a stiffer feeling while jumping over the curbs (or "kerbs"?) - sorry for my weak english...

If someone is interested in such struts - please mail me:
[email protected]
If there are enough potential clients maybe my techies can do a little serie. Only problem: It's in Germany so shipping to U.S. may be more expensive than the struts itself.
 
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