Anyone tried out the 2002 Type-R strut bar?

Ordered, awaiting delivery.

Tim
 
I saw the NSX-R front strut bar, and am going to order it, if it isn't too big a pain to install on a left hand drive car. Coming from a Porsche 911 background, I did some research into front strut bars. On the Porsche, the front flexed a lot. I was told that this is a good thing for a road car, it keeps the wheels planted to the road in a turn. On the track, a stiffer chassis is better. I was told that for street use with stock wheels and tires, don't get a brace. It will cause the car to plow sooner, and skip over bumps in a turn. If you track, or have an agressive wheel/tire combo, you should get it. How much of this applies to an NSX is for you to decide.

I just installed an aftermarket hood on my car, and the fit was perfect. After driving, I noticed that the hood sank 1/16th on an inch on the left side at the bumper. I thought that it just settled a bit, but it seemed to get worse. Then I figured out the problem. On the way to my home, I pass down the local street used for drag racing. The police had two big speed bumps installed to shorten the length of the strip. I slow down to 5 mph, and take them close to the curb on the left side of the street. My two left wheels miss the bump completely, while the right side wheels of the car go over the bump. This was causing the front of my car to shift in one direction.

Once I figured that out, I took the car over the bumps near the right side of the street. Bingo! The hood re-aligned itself, and I now take the bumps straight on with both wheels. I have been watching the gap between the fender and the hood as I go over, and I can see the flex. This is confirmed by the fact that now the gaps behind the headlight housings are bigger.

My thinking is that the NSX front strut bar is worth it, and I am going to get one. If you have an aftermarket hood, wheels, or shocks, or a NSX-T that sees the track, it is worth looking into-IMO.
 
It is not really a strut bar. More like a chassis bar, to strengthen the front chassis of the NSX. The particular part is not just for the 2002 type R, the older type R has this as well.

It is actually very simple, and we were able to make this our own.

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<A HREF="http://www.tracknutz.com" TARGET=_blank>www.tracknutz.com
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Join us Nov 24!
 
Hi guys,

I installed those 2 front type-r bars in my '91. One of them goes under the front sway bars and the other one goes infront of the radiator. Andrie is correct, they're more like chassis bars to strengthen the front chassis of the nsx.

note:
1. I had to remove my front dali race sway bar and replaced it with a type-r 21mm oem sway bar in order to fit the front lower type-r reinforcement bar.

2. In order to install the type-r radiator bar, you'll need to trim off some plastic covers in front of the radiator and you might even need to remove one of the 2 tow hooks.

Hope this helps...

Henry.
 
Andrie,

Interested in how you made your own. I would like to do the same and would love to hear (see via pics) what you did.

Anything to make the car feel more like a go cart in terms of steering is a good thing.

Thanks Andrie.

Jeff
 
Pushing topic back up to the top.

Jorligan: Have you got and installed yours yet?

Major Stoner: Pics???

I would like to make my own if I can.... I need a new project and I think I can probably handle this one. And would like to know what the attachment points are (pics are best) as well as the approximate size of the metal they use.

I looked under the front hood where there are 4 large bolts that attach to the suspension. I was pondering if I could put the type R bars on the bottom and fab one to go on top. The top however is covered in a mass of wires and I really don't want to mess with that.

Is there a TRUE front strut tower bar? I think Chris Wilson found one but it is only for LHD cars.

Any help is appreciated.
 
Mine just arrived in the mail, I will post some pics in a couple of days. MJ has a series of install pics (8 megs) which he is going to resize and create a pdf file from. Didn't forget about you:-)
 
Originally posted by MAJOR STONER:
I saw the NSX-R front strut bar, and am going to order it, if it isn't too big a pain to install on a left hand drive car. Coming from a Porsche 911 background, I did some research into front strut bars. On the Porsche, the front flexed a lot. I was told that this is a good thing for a road car, it keeps the wheels planted to the road in a turn. On the track, a stiffer chassis is better. I was told that for street use with stock wheels and tires, don't get a brace. It will cause the car to plow sooner, and skip over bumps in a turn. If you track, or have an agressive wheel/tire combo, you should get it. How much of this applies to an NSX is for you to decide.

I just installed an aftermarket hood on my car, and the fit was perfect. After driving, I noticed that the hood sank 1/16th on an inch on the left side at the bumper. I thought that it just settled a bit, but it seemed to get worse. Then I figured out the problem. On the way to my home, I pass down the local street used for drag racing. The police had two big speed bumps installed to shorten the length of the strip. I slow down to 5 mph, and take them close to the curb on the left side of the street. My two left wheels miss the bump completely, while the right side wheels of the car go over the bump. This was causing the front of my car to shift in one direction.

Once I figured that out, I took the car over the bumps near the right side of the street. Bingo! The hood re-aligned itself, and I now take the bumps straight on with both wheels. I have been watching the gap between the fender and the hood as I go over, and I can see the flex. This is confirmed by the fact that now the gaps behind the headlight housings are bigger.

My thinking is that the NSX front strut bar is worth it, and I am going to get one. If you have an aftermarket hood, wheels, or shocks, or a NSX-T that sees the track, it is worth looking into-IMO.


is this a serious problem? I sort of having the same problem too.

I sort of "not " understand what you saying.. hope that you could email me some details..

thanks



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the art of chasing down my friend's white 3000gt at com. ave


NSXCA # 1690 "Sabrina"
 
One bar goes just above the two 'beams' that support the battery tray. It should work with any hood. The other goes across the front of the radiator.
 
I just finished my install of the 2 Type R bars. The one that goes under the car by the sway bars is no problem to install, btw I have the Dail street/track bars, twin scoop hood.
The bar that goes in front of the radiator is a little more involved. You have to remove and trim a plastic shroud and work in tight spaces. The major problem was that the holes to attached the bars were not drilled in the correct place (any way not for my car) so I had to elongate them so they would fit. Not rocket science, but takes some time to do.
I will be looking forward to do some spirited driving to see if they make any difference.

Gary

[This message has been edited by Gary W (edited 16 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Gary W:
I just finished my install of the 2 Type R bars. The one that goes under the car by the sway bars is no problem to install, btw I have the Dail street/track bars, twin scoop hood.
The bar that goes in front of the radiator is a little more involved. You have to remove and trim a plastic shroud and work in tight spaces. The major problem was that the holes to attached the bars were not drilled in the correct place (any way not for my car) so I had to elongate them so they would fit. Not rocket science, but takes some time to do.
I will be looking forward to do some spirited driving to see if they make any difference.

Gary

[This message has been edited by Gary W (edited 16 October 2002).]

Good post Gary! Please keep us posted on street driving differences and performance differences.

Questions:

- What EXACTLY do you mean by elongated?
- How long did it take you to do it?

Thanks!
 
Questions:

- What EXACTLY do you mean by elongated?
- How long did it take you to do it?

Thanks![/B][/QUOTE]

The hole in the bar needs to be made more oval instead of round to allow for adjustment. One side of the bar is elongated already but not enough. I used a rat tail file to elongate it more and then used a grinder stone to elongate the large hole for the head of the bolt.
Hope this helps,
Gary
 
Thanks Major Stoner. Great Pics. Can I be a bum and ask you to take pics of them installed? Don't mean to be a bother. My goal here, besides being a cheapskate, is to tie the two bars together in a criss-cross pattern to make the connection even stronger. I am not sure this is even possible. I also need to see what the connection points are so I know for sure what bolts and structural pieces can handel the extra load. Thanks again all.

Now that that's over with, can you feel a difference? Steering sharpness, flex resistance? Any comments are appreciated.

Thanks again.

Jeff
 
I may not get around to installing mine for a couple of weeks. I may wimp out and just install the bottom bar when I do. I was going to have someone make a strut bar for me, but I decided to go with OEM, since I would've had to pay anyway. Here are a couple of pix that Mark Johnson sent me, hope they help. I am taking the liberty of posting them, since there is interest and the chance it may lead to some additional sales for Mark. Thanks to MJ for the pix, property and copyright Dali Racing.
http://home.earthlink.net/~lucy4/_uimages/dalistrutpix.jpg
 
Any impressions after driving before / after?

Please let us know for real how it performs on the street / track?

Also - how many hours to install with a floor jack and hand tools?

Thanks!
 
Also - how many hours to install with a floor jack and hand tools?

About 15 min. for the lower bar and 1-2 hours for the front bar. If you remove the toe hooks you should not have to elongate the holes as I stated earlier.

Gary

Thanks![/B][/QUOTE]
 
Thank's for the pics. I don't think I will be getting one now. Wasn't quite what I thought it would be.
Hope it works for you though.

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ALL NSX
92 RED/BLACK 5-SPEED
 
I had my bottom bar installed at the place I gas up. It takes longer to put the car up on the lift than installing the bottom bar. I drove through an industrial section with some bad roads, and I immediately noticed that the car feels more solid and sounds different when going over the bumps. For a silly little mod, or half a mod, it seems to do a lot.

My Zanardi prototype is the only one WITH power steering. My initial impression, after switching from my '94, was that the steering was too light. It now seems to be slightly heavier.

$250 doesn't seem like too much, even if you just install the one bar. I don't know if the front bar installs in a '02 model, or an earlier car with an aftermarket nose, without modification.
 
I installed the lower bar and also the NSX-R front sway bar, noticed slightly improved steering response at the track. I have to install the front bar to see what the overall effect would be.

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George W
Porsche 996 for sale!
 
Hi George, what was your starting point or reference point before the changes to notice the difference, I know you are not running stock .....
wink.gif


By the way, does the cross bar under the sway bar have enough clearance from the battery tray, especially on 97+ .....?

My Comptech sway bars barely clear the 98-T battery tray and do hit the corners of the battery tray just before the sway bar kink, we had to bend the tray a little. This is not unique to mine, it's common in 4 other cars with aftermarket swaty bars that we looked at on a tech day ..... At least now I know what that clunking noise was on heavy S turns on the track ....
 
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