I just did mine a couple of months ago as preventive maintenance. A few comments:
1) Yes you have to remove the tank.
2) The 6P (?) connector as shown in the manual is located behind the driver’s seat panel. Pull the panel behind the drives seat and you will see a round cut out. Pull the insulation back and you will see the fuel pump wires. Follow the wires to the connector. That is the 6P connector that they talk about in the manual.
3) Helpful tip…once you have disconnected the 6P connector, zip-tie the wire and connector together and place it through the 6” hole. You are probable thinking there is now way it will get hung up, but unless you have someone around who can sit in the car to make sure that it does not get hung up, then I would use the zip-tie trick.
4) Prior to placing the car on jack stands, you will want to disconnect all hoses from the top of the car. This is the hard part and the part that will slow you down. The hoses are going to be hard to get off, but if you use a very small flat head screwdriver, you can push it between the hard line and the hose to break the seal. Once you have broken the seal about 60% around, you should be able to grab the hose with your hand and twist it to free the hose from the hard line. Once you can twist the hose on the hard line it is very easy to twist it back and forth are work it off the hard line. After the install I went to the store and bought a set of hooks. They look like dental hooks with a screwdriver handle. If you have a set, they might come in handy too.
5) The hose clamps are kind of hard to access. You will need an assortment of different size pliers to help you get to them. Nothing special, just a few different sizes. The large pliers don’t fit real well in the tight space. I also remember that I had to slide the hose clamps towards the hard line and not further onto the flexible hose which I was trying to remove. Just play with it and you will figure it out. I also removed the Air Box and took that round black canister off its holder (but did not remove it) so that I would have a little more working room when removing the fuel fill hose.
6)
You will need 2 new crush washers for the fuel return line which will be removed at the fuel filter. If you have not replaced your fuel filter, do so at this time. When removing the fuel return line from the fuel filter you will find that the fuel filter will try to turn, a 21mm open end should be used to brace the fuel filter. If you look at where the lines connect to the fuel filter, and use your fingers to feel under the hard lines, but on top of the fuel filter, you will be able to figure out where the 21 mm open end goes. If you have a new fuel filter in your hands you will immediately see where it goes. You get the point.
7) If I remember correctly
you will also need two (maybe even 4) new crush washers when connecting the fuel line back to the new fuel pump?
8) Car up on jack stands now, drain the fuel tank. I put my car just high enough to fit a gas can under it with a funnel.
Be sure to buy a replacement crush washer for the fuel drain plug.
9) You will need a deep socket for the tank strap bolts.
10) You will get them completely removed and the tank will still be stuck to the car. Just push and pull a little and it will come free.
11) When re-installing, if doing it by yourself, use a jack to help hold one side of the tank in place while you are working on re-installing the straps.
In general it was pretty easy and strait forward. Like all bolts on this car, they come off like they are suppose to and go back on with no problems. You should not run into any trouble. Just don’t under estimate the time it is going to take…I love how the manual describes the procedure on one page in 5 steps, lol.
Hope this helps.
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