Alternator removal steps needed

[pt91]

I am half way through polishing my alternator on my 91. I have used my dremel with a variety of compounds. I works, but takes a lot of hours and my back is getting tired from leaning over.
I know if I take the alternator out, I can polish it on one of my grinders I converted to a polisher with 6" cotton pads.
I can also get to all of the surfaces and be done with it within an hour.
Any advice on removing and replacing the alternator?

 

[DanO]

It is detailed in the Service Manual. I do not remember it to be too difficult of a procedure. The only thing that takes some “guess work” is re-tensioning the belt after installation. The only thing I can say here is feel the belt tension before you remove the alternator and try to match that tension during the install. There are belt tension measurers and there is a tension spec in the Service Manual, but I found it difficult to find enough room to fit the tool on the belt when it was installed. All the mechanics I talked to just said to set it where it feels right—really helpful for a non-mechanic. If you set it too loose then it might squeal (no big deal), if you set it too tight it might burn out the bearings on the alternator so I’d set it on the loose side and tighten if it starts to squeal.

.02
DanO

 

[pt91]

Tks for the info. Guess I better buy that service manual.
Maybe I could do this before an oil change and hv the Acura tech check the tension when it is in for oil.
You are probably right on the tension test.

 

[hlweyl]

pt91, are you aware of the 91' service manual available for download on the main page of this site. Might save you some $$$

 

[nsxtasy]

I find that having a physical service manual - having the entire book in front of me, rather than a computer screen - is a lot more useful and user-friendly. It's really essential if you're going to work on your own car.

And it's actually very reasonably priced, compared with manuals for many other cars.

I'm sure you know that you can buy one here.

 

[Kinan]

I just print out the service steps I need before I do the work which I find easier to position at the job than a full size heavy manual.. but thats just me.

As far as belt tightening, an alternator engineer once told me that a good way to check belt tension is if you can turn the alternator pulley by hand (when it is not running) then its too loose. So tighten it up so that its just past the point of being too loose and you should be good on the bearings.

Another sure fire way to tell if the belt is loose or slipping is to read the battery voltage at idle with all the accessories off. It should be near 14 volts or more broadly, anything over 12.6 is charging the battery.

Anyway, if the voltage is too low at idle and then you gas the motor and see the voltage come up to normal, then its the alternator now coming up to speed enough to generate voltage even with the slipping belt.

 

[D'Ecosse]

I find that having a physical service manual - having the entire book in front of me, rather than a computer screen - is a lot more useful and user-friendly. It's really essential if you're going to work on your own car.

I have the hard manual but for most quick reference I actually like the soft copy - I have it downloaded on my drive so I don't need to wait for loading time. However, it should be noted that this is not a complete manual - I have found several processes that are not in the soft copy.
Printing off the pages from the softcopy for the shop saves the manual from getting oily fingerprints during the repair process!
Definitely a good idea to have both available.

 

[chumch]

Here is a CD rom of the service manual on ebay ten bucks:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34223&item=2454610799

 

[D'Ecosse]

Here is a CD rom of the service manual on ebay ten bucks:

$15 with shipping for nothing more than a rip-off of a download from the one available free right here on 'Prime - download it yourself overnight even if you don't have the fastest connection & burn your own CD Rom.

 

[mojo]

I am half way through polishing my alternator on my 91. I have used my dremel with a variety of compounds. I works, but takes a lot of hours and my back is getting tired from leaning over.

Can you let us know how this goes? I just got done polishing my BBSC (actually, the "snail" housing of the Paxton blower) before I install it, and I was looking to do the same with the alternator. I'm a little concerned that all the little slots will make things very difficult.

Take some pics!

 

[pt91]

Mojo,
I can't get back to it until next weekend, but I will let you know.
I took some pics 1/2 through to show the contrast. I will take pics when I finish.
Did you use the red rouge polish or another compound on your SC? I think a more aggressive compound (tripoli or the grey stuff) works better than trying to start with a fine polish. A fine polish is like using 600 wet/dry paper on a 2x4. Sooner or later you will get it smooth, but it will take forever.
If anyone tries this with the red dremel polish, be careful not to get any on your paint.
I accidentally got a few melted drops on the side of my fender from charging the wheel. I turned it away from the car, but that melted stuff found it's way onto the fender.
I am still trying to figure out how to get it off w/o smudging it and putting scratches in my paint.
Tripoli doesn't seem to melt as fast and fly around like the dremel rouge.
I want to remove the alternator to get to the tough spots. Still not sure if I hv the guts or not. I hv a week to figure it out.

 

[mojo]

pt91-

Actually, this was the first thing I've ever polished, so I'm not even sure if I did it "correctly" (if there is such a thing). The housing is sand cast, so it took a lot of wet sanding at 320, then 400, 600, and finally 1500 and 2000 grits. I looked around for rouge, but couldn't find anything, and all the tripoli at Home Depot was rock hard from sitting there for way too long.

I decided finally to try some Mother's aluminum polish that I had lying around (the white paste) with a felt wheel that I chucked into my drill press (don't own a grinder...), which worked great. I finally finished it up with some little felt drums on my dremel at the highest setting to buff out to a mirror finish.

It's not the best picture- the flash makes it look a bit scratched, but it's pretty close to a mirror- see the reflection of the table, and then remember that this used to be a sand cast finish:

If I could get my alternator like that, I'd be thrilled. But I want to know how you fared first with all those little slots!

 

[mojo]

If anyone tries this with the red dremel polish, be careful not to get any on your paint.

Oh yeah- I did try the red dremel polish after I used the Mother's, and it made it worse, so I had to go back to the Mother's- give it a try- it's like wiping away dirt when you buff with that stuff!

I am still trying to figure out how to get it off w/o smudging it and putting scratches in my paint.

What about taking it to a coin-op high pressure car wash place (the place where YOU do it), and wash it off from a distance? Or I suppose you could just try hot water first- anything to wash it away instead of dragging it over the paint.

 

[pt91]

Mojo,
Looks nice!
I will try the Mother's. I think the version I have is blue, star, magic something or other.
Good tip on the rouge removal. Something hot or a solvent should cut the wax. Maybe blue dawn in hot water. Not sure what solvent is safe on the paint. I tried a little tar and sap removal, but it didn't work the way I thought it would.
I printed out the 4 pages on alt. removal. Doesn't look hard, just not sure about tensioning the belt when re-installing it.
I may cut small sections of painters tape to cover the holes if I decide to take it out and polish it. I don't want to get any goop or fibers in there.