Have to disagree with @Old Guy , 2002-2005 are more valuable, but those frog-eyed headlights!
The OP specified up to 2001 so I did not include any comments applicable to the 2002 + cars.
I have never heard of material concerns with respect to the Evap systems. Sometimes, the later cars with OBDII will have problems setting the monitor for the Evap system; but, that may only be an emission compliance issue and in a lot of jurisdictions the regulator will give you an exemption if it is the evap monitor that fails to set; but, you may have to apply for that exemption every time you test. Setting evap monitors is a common problem for a lot of cars. The pre OBDII cars do not have this problem. My 2000 has never failed to set any of its monitors. Easy enough to check this on an OBDII car with a good scanner (do it yourself or make sale conditional on the car having no DTCs and all monitors successfully set).
A lot of people obsess over the timing belts; but, timing belt failures on cars that have not been on the race track is, as far as I can determine, a non issue and there are a lot of street use NSXs running way past Honda's recommendations for timing belt replacement. There have been more reported cases of engine screw ups from improper timing belt installation than from in service failure of the timing belt on a street car (which is zero as far as I can find). Cooling hose failure is a much higher risk issue and trolling the forum with the search function will serve up a number of posts describing in service hose failure on street driven cars. An in service failure of one of the large hoses has a high potential of being fatal for the engine (head gaskets) if it occurs at highway speeds and you do not notice the cloud out the back immediately. If the car comes from a hot climate I would have the hoses replaced at 15-20 years. Cool climate cars 20 - 25 years, I did my 2000 last year. Regular flushing of the cooling system will not extend hose life; but, it will help with corrosion on metal parts such as the water pump so flush intervals is a good thing to check.
Targa seal / rattle Not an issue on my car; but, I clean and lubricate those seals every year and I generally leave the roof panel on all the time so that the seals are not exposed to UV or collecting dirt. You will want to inspect the gaskets for damage (caused by clumsy re installation of the roof panel which is rather heavy and awkward). If the gaskets are damaged and need replacement they are very expensive and very time consuming to replace. If you buy both seals from the dealership and have them installed by the dealership I bet you are looking at very far north of $5000 Cdn.
There are coupes (other than the Zanardi) in the cars in the later production range; but, they are very rare and will command a higher price. If you want a 1995 - 2001 chances are it is going to be a targa.
Nobody mentioned window regulators (slow) and door glass alignment which is an issue on all model years. Door glass alignment on the targa is much more problematic than on the coupe. Don't mess with it if you don't have to because chances are you will make sealing and wind noise worse.
On the ageing electronics / electrical problems list the top picks are:
Climate Control Unit
Main EFI relay
Stereo system
Fan control unit
Worn ignition switches
You might want to avoid cars that have aftermarket security systems installed because there are a number of posts describing electrical problems caused by the aftermarket security system screwing things up. It might not be a deal breaker; but, it is something to be aware of. The optional OEM keyless entry is an option that seems to be durable if it has been fitted.
Clutches are a normal wear item, not a design issue. The design issue is that they have a fairly high release point and a relatively narrow friction point which can make smooth engagement difficult which then leads to strategies (rev and slip) that increase wear. That will depend on the previous owner. At a nudge less than 90,000 miles my clutch is fine.