Have'nt seen mine but sometimes the mail is slow.
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A New NSX Vendor - Pole 2 Flag Racing Is In Town!!!
- Thread starter liftnot
- Start date
David, our bad. really sorry about our mistake not using the correct zip. this is what we found when we ck the USPS tracking. The address we used was: xxxxxxx Beaumont, TX 77701 and it should have been 77707.
Its our fault and we apologize for writing the wrong ZIP. When we received it back, we'll ship it again using the right zip..
[TABLE="width: 100%, align: center"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD="class: label, align: right"]Subject:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="class: small"]Robert F. has just sent you $272.35 USD with PayPal
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: label, align: right"]Note:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="class: small"]Ship to address: xxxxxxxxxxx Beaumont, Texas 77707 I am "davidf" on Prime. Thank you.
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: label, align: right"]Payment type:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="class: small"]Instant[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]
Tracking Number: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx5289
[h=2]alert[/h]
Its our fault and we apologize for writing the wrong ZIP. When we received it back, we'll ship it again using the right zip..
[TABLE="width: 100%, align: center"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD="class: label, align: right"]Subject:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="class: small"]Robert F. has just sent you $272.35 USD with PayPal
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: label, align: right"]Note:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="class: small"]Ship to address: xxxxxxxxxxx Beaumont, Texas 77707 I am "davidf" on Prime. Thank you.
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: label, align: right"]Payment type:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD="class: small"]Instant[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]
Tracking Number: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx5289
[h=2]alert[/h]
- Expected Delivery Day: Friday, August 1, 2014
- Your item was undeliverable as addressed at 12:31 pm on August 1, 2014 in BEAUMONT, TX 77705. It is being returned if appropriate information is available.
Hey, no worries. I'm not in need for right now. Let me PP you a little something for reshipping.
Got mine today, thank you. Guys, lets not forget to leave feedback.
The 1st batch of ABS Delete Kit are all sold
Sorry Sasha(aka Tomaske), you are under the bus:redface:
Thank You Guys especially Texas:biggrin:
Sorry Sasha(aka Tomaske), you are under the bus:redface:
Thank You Guys especially Texas:biggrin:
thanks guys got mine installed and works/fits great. Just wondering I've heard the ABS module is under the dash somewhere and I just want to unplug it
Anyone got a pic or location?
Anyone got a pic or location?its part no. 11 under the dash.
http://www.hondaacuraonline.com/aut...l-exhaust-heater-fuel-cat/control-unit-2-scat
http://www.hondaacuraonline.com/aut...l-exhaust-heater-fuel-cat/control-unit-2-scat
ok got both connectors out but now the TCS light is on
TCS or ABS?
ok got both connectors out but now the TCS light is on
Abs light is off but TCS is on
This is courtesy of Sebastian - NSX-Colorado
You can easily bybass the ABS and keep the light off. All you have to do is disconnect it (the orange plugs under the hood connecting the ABS) then put a little wire connecting the two wires in the plug. This basically creates a loop. -- You can keep all the fuses in. No error codes etc.
Its the plug under the master brake cylinder.. the lowest one in the compartment. About 10 inches under it. towards the firewall.
the pictures are not that good .. Sorry. Call me if you need help 303-917-4985
Thread link, post 328
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/183360-How-do-I-know-when-the-ABS-modulator-is-going-bad-on-my-91/page2
we have a 93 and we had the opposite problem, the TCS light is not on with this ABS Delete, only the ABS light stays on. even when we disconnect all the connections to both modules, the ABS still stay on.
so we think you have to remove the TCS module and create a loop to buy pass it like the ABS.
- - - Updated - - -
Dave,
my was opposite of Alex's. I just followed NSX-Colorado advise and that took care of it. It was easy.
- - - Updated - - -
Jeff,
Pole 2 Flag Racing will NOT be offering the option with the Russell P-valve for the following reasons:
1) twice as heavy as the Tilton.
( we thought it was made out of steel)
2) not as well made and less thought went in to the design of this part
3) almost twice as big as the Tilton
4) IMO, its more for the muscle car/hot rods:wink:
5) can be just as expensive as the Tilton:redface:
6) different mounting position vs the Tilton:frown:
7) we like the click type as the 5 positions are clearly defined than the screw type
Having said that, Tilton does offer a screw type with the same mounting locations as the click type, so it should work.
therefore, Russell is under the bus and If you want it still, you can have it for $50, its never used just gently unwrapped and touched.
You should keep the instructions below for future reference.
http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/98-1261-Brake-Proportioning-Valve.pdf
You can easily bybass the ABS and keep the light off. All you have to do is disconnect it (the orange plugs under the hood connecting the ABS) then put a little wire connecting the two wires in the plug. This basically creates a loop. -- You can keep all the fuses in. No error codes etc.
Its the plug under the master brake cylinder.. the lowest one in the compartment. About 10 inches under it. towards the firewall.
the pictures are not that good .. Sorry. Call me if you need help 303-917-4985
Thread link, post 328
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/183360-How-do-I-know-when-the-ABS-modulator-is-going-bad-on-my-91/page2
we have a 93 and we had the opposite problem, the TCS light is not on with this ABS Delete, only the ABS light stays on. even when we disconnect all the connections to both modules, the ABS still stay on.
so we think you have to remove the TCS module and create a loop to buy pass it like the ABS.
- - - Updated - - -
Dave,
my was opposite of Alex's. I just followed NSX-Colorado advise and that took care of it. It was easy.
- - - Updated - - -
Jeff,
Pole 2 Flag Racing will NOT be offering the option with the Russell P-valve for the following reasons:
1) twice as heavy as the Tilton.
( we thought it was made out of steel)2) not as well made and less thought went in to the design of this part
3) almost twice as big as the Tilton
4) IMO, its more for the muscle car/hot rods:wink:
5) can be just as expensive as the Tilton:redface:
6) different mounting position vs the Tilton:frown:
7) we like the click type as the 5 positions are clearly defined than the screw type
Having said that, Tilton does offer a screw type with the same mounting locations as the click type, so it should work.
therefore, Russell is under the bus and If you want it still, you can have it for $50, its never used just gently unwrapped and touched.
You should keep the instructions below for future reference.
http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/98-1261-Brake-Proportioning-Valve.pdf
Last edited:
Pole 2 Flag Racing will NOT be offering the option with the Russell P-valve for the following reasons:
1) twice as heavy as the Tilton.
2) not as well made and less thought went in to the design of this part
3) almost twice as big as the Tilton
4) IMO, its more for the muscle car/hot rods:wink:
5) can be just as expensive as the Tilton:redface:
6) different mounting position vs the Tilton:frown:
7) we like the click type as the 5 positions are clearly defined than the screw type
Wow, here I thought you were an engineer or some automotive type that knew what they were doing.
Funny, when discussing proportioning valves for an ABS-delete kit, you make no mention of the important technical aspects like: split point, crack-point or "knee," no mention of the post-knee pressure reduction slope, and most importantly - no mention of all this to trail-braking or it's impact on dry and wet braking (weight transfer effects). These are things that real engineers know about, and how they integrate all of a vehicle's design inputs into a safe ABS and proportioned-braking system.
No, you just use subjective terms like: not as well made and it's more for the muscle-car scene
Between this latest post and your carbon bumper beam thread, it's clear that you are hiding under the guise of a knowledgeable person and just spouting off that "it's lighter" and other criteria that make little sense when applied to a particular parts' real design functions.
And FYI for those actually wanting to learn - these valves are basically spring-loaded spool valves. Wilwood happens to use a steel body (bore) with brass internals to stand up to long-term abuse... because we know how those hot-rodders are
From purely a cost, function, and form standpoint, the Wilwood is equivalent to the Tilton (and most other pressure-reduction valves out there). Yeah man, those extra 3 oz of weight for the Wilwood p-valve is going to cost me at the track... and most importantly - the local CNC.
Sorry if this post came off a bit testy. I just hate to see this kind of misinformation spread by people who obviously don't have a clue and are not willing to learn.
Dave
Dave,
>Wow, here I thought you were an engineer or some automotive type that knew what they were doing.
we may not win all the time but we know what winning looks like. Your system IS the ideal with hard lines but its not possible nor affordable for the common folks like us. You want to add extra weight and not knowing what exact position you are at its your choice.
We don't need to second guess Tilton. Mac has people who knows what they are doing. its just fine the way it is and they have both screw type and lever type. both has the exact location for input and output so its up to the end user to buy what he wants and it will mount at the exact location for both types.
Sorry my engineering skills let you down. I only have experience with GTP cars not production cars. They never taught us how to spell UCSB either but last I checked, we have good aim. I won't spend my time to bend hard lines like you did which is not a solution for most. we will never duplicate what you did to your car as no one can afford to buy it and the trade off is not an issue using DOT lines....the beach is calling again.
>...... the technical aspect of P-valve, split point, crack-point or "knee," no mention of the post-knee pressure reduction slope, and most importantly, trail-braking or it's impact on dry and wet braking (weight transfer effects). These are things that real engineers know about, and how they integrate all of a vehicle's design inputs into a safe ABS and proportioned-braking system.
this part is not for people like you. its better stay with mother Honda. Fluids is not that hard to understand and we are not here to teach, educate people how to drive. thats their job to read and watch Youtube or take a class with Billy and learn to adapt.
Owning a NSX, one should have enough experience modding cars in the past and understand what we doing here. Why should we put on a part that has twice the weight and different port locations to complicate the kit? The problem is not about few oz., its the thinking behind it. Yes, every little weight do counts and they all add up. We going to offer 3 Ti bolts for extra $25 bucks and I hope that is ok with you or do you want technical explanation too?
If you don't trust us, do buy from us. Its quite ok.
>Between this latest post and your carbon bumper beam thread, it's clear that you are hiding under the guise of a knowledgeable person and just spouting off that "it's lighter" and other criteria that make little sense when applied to a particular parts' real design functions.
I am a ricer by birth not by trade. I do have a Nacho Libre mask in my closet. I don't need to show off my credentials. I just need to list them and make parts to help my car and others to have a lower lap time. That does not mean our stuff won't break. There are many ways to skin a cat. If you follow our recipe of mods, your car will be faster but we can't be sure if the driver can be made faster. Every new part that is made from 1.0 to 2.0 may have some crappy-ness to it as 2.0 is not as seasoned as 1.0 but its how we make progress.
>And FYI for those actually wanting to learn - these valves are basically spring-loaded spool valves. Wilwood happens to use a steel body (bore) with brass internals to stand up to long-term abuse... because we know how those hot-rodders are
Exactly. For me to question Tilton is fruitless, Wilwood and Russell are less found on top level racing cars and thanks for educating us. I don't dare to ask how much time you spent on making/bending/revising those hardlines. There are too many waves we need to catch before the swell goes down.
No, we won't discuss detail tech topics here as you described. If we did that, we'll be typing our fingers to the bone and get no peace and no sleep. You demonstrated perfectly in your reply why we won't get into discussion like this.
You did the right thing=> If you want things done the right way? you gotta do it yourself.
Dave, take the challenge, start making and selling your own parts. They are really nice.
You Win!! We agree to disagree. You think we blow smoke, thats ok, at least we will ship and we have shipped unlike other vendors we all know. Two more are going to Guam on Monday and we provide 3 Ti bolts so it will never rust for extra $25 and thats a pretty good deal. We respect your reply, for that, we are willing to send you the Russell valve for free if you provide your address in exchange you type and explain all the topics that we missed.
Now excuse me....I need to go take my meds.
>Wow, here I thought you were an engineer or some automotive type that knew what they were doing.
we may not win all the time but we know what winning looks like. Your system IS the ideal with hard lines but its not possible nor affordable for the common folks like us. You want to add extra weight and not knowing what exact position you are at its your choice.
We don't need to second guess Tilton. Mac has people who knows what they are doing. its just fine the way it is and they have both screw type and lever type. both has the exact location for input and output so its up to the end user to buy what he wants and it will mount at the exact location for both types.
Sorry my engineering skills let you down. I only have experience with GTP cars not production cars. They never taught us how to spell UCSB either but last I checked, we have good aim. I won't spend my time to bend hard lines like you did which is not a solution for most. we will never duplicate what you did to your car as no one can afford to buy it and the trade off is not an issue using DOT lines....the beach is calling again.
>...... the technical aspect of P-valve, split point, crack-point or "knee," no mention of the post-knee pressure reduction slope, and most importantly, trail-braking or it's impact on dry and wet braking (weight transfer effects). These are things that real engineers know about, and how they integrate all of a vehicle's design inputs into a safe ABS and proportioned-braking system.
this part is not for people like you. its better stay with mother Honda. Fluids is not that hard to understand and we are not here to teach, educate people how to drive. thats their job to read and watch Youtube or take a class with Billy and learn to adapt.
Owning a NSX, one should have enough experience modding cars in the past and understand what we doing here. Why should we put on a part that has twice the weight and different port locations to complicate the kit? The problem is not about few oz., its the thinking behind it. Yes, every little weight do counts and they all add up. We going to offer 3 Ti bolts for extra $25 bucks and I hope that is ok with you or do you want technical explanation too?
If you don't trust us, do buy from us. Its quite ok.
>Between this latest post and your carbon bumper beam thread, it's clear that you are hiding under the guise of a knowledgeable person and just spouting off that "it's lighter" and other criteria that make little sense when applied to a particular parts' real design functions.
I am a ricer by birth not by trade. I do have a Nacho Libre mask in my closet. I don't need to show off my credentials. I just need to list them and make parts to help my car and others to have a lower lap time. That does not mean our stuff won't break. There are many ways to skin a cat. If you follow our recipe of mods, your car will be faster but we can't be sure if the driver can be made faster. Every new part that is made from 1.0 to 2.0 may have some crappy-ness to it as 2.0 is not as seasoned as 1.0 but its how we make progress.
>And FYI for those actually wanting to learn - these valves are basically spring-loaded spool valves. Wilwood happens to use a steel body (bore) with brass internals to stand up to long-term abuse... because we know how those hot-rodders are
Exactly. For me to question Tilton is fruitless, Wilwood and Russell are less found on top level racing cars and thanks for educating us. I don't dare to ask how much time you spent on making/bending/revising those hardlines. There are too many waves we need to catch before the swell goes down.
No, we won't discuss detail tech topics here as you described. If we did that, we'll be typing our fingers to the bone and get no peace and no sleep. You demonstrated perfectly in your reply why we won't get into discussion like this.
You did the right thing=> If you want things done the right way? you gotta do it yourself.
Dave, take the challenge, start making and selling your own parts. They are really nice.
You Win!! We agree to disagree. You think we blow smoke, thats ok, at least we will ship and we have shipped unlike other vendors we all know. Two more are going to Guam on Monday and we provide 3 Ti bolts so it will never rust for extra $25 and thats a pretty good deal. We respect your reply, for that, we are willing to send you the Russell valve for free if you provide your address in exchange you type and explain all the topics that we missed.
Now excuse me....I need to go take my meds.
Last edited:
your PM is full
call me 858-952-1038 Tim
your PM is full. I can't get thru.
Need to go to a BBQ in 30min.....if the wife is not :smile:, nobody is :smile:. Just call. I am not clear which fitting you are missing.
The following errors occurred with your submission
Ok, my wife is leaving me...this is not as important and we'll sort this out. I gotta go. send pix to [email protected] if you can so we don't get it wrong the 2nd time.
call me 858-952-1038 Tim
your PM is full. I can't get thru.
Need to go to a BBQ in 30min.....if the wife is not :smile:, nobody is :smile:. Just call. I am not clear which fitting you are missing.
The following errors occurred with your submission
- adrenaline_nsx has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.
Ok, my wife is leaving me...this is not as important and we'll sort this out. I gotta go. send pix to [email protected] if you can so we don't get it wrong the 2nd time.
Last edited:
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