A New NSX Vendor - Pole 2 Flag Racing Is In Town!!!

[liftnot]

Hola Amigos!! After several months of prep., we have finally decided to come out the closet and declare Pole2FlagRacing.com is alive and proud:biggrin:

I know, I know, the logo is redneck/cheesy and the website can be more hip, hey, its our 1st site and we built it ourselves in a few weeks after our WebMaster flaked and we are still waiting on the graphic designer to come thru with a better logo. The user experience will be enhanced depending on how the biz goes.

The 1st product is the racing style bladed ARB 2.0 and 25 sets are WIP. Bladed ARB 2.0
It has been Alpha and Beta tested. The production schedule kept being delayed but that is the way it is and we will have pix up soon and expect the product ready to ship in a month. If you are interested, you can put your name here. No deposit needed as it will be a lot more than the ARB 1.0 you have on the car that has been on the market since the '60s. Its time to move on to 2.0 don't you think? ARB 3.0? Lets not go there:wink: Once we have parts in stock, its 1st Paid, 1st Served.
1.
2.
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The 2nd product is the ABS Delete Kit and we are making Qty.=14 We are halfway thru the production cycle so by next weekend, we should be able to ship.
You can leave your name here (hey Richard, David, Brian...++)
The introductory price is $360 + shipping
1. davidf
2. Brian
3. Richard
4. Sasha(under the bus)
5. excellon
6. Alex
...

Using the same State-of-the-art, top-of-the DOT lines, we are making a few sets of SS brakelines for OEM app. 91-05. If you have AF BBK, Custom lengths are avail. starting $250/set. That is a great value. We'd used the popular, common racing SS line but they kink easy and are not dirt proof. Race team usually replace them after every race. We can't do that. These DOT lines could be the last lines you will ever need. Check it out.
1. Brian
2.
....

A couple other parts are not ready for Prime-time. Hopefully we'll get there.

Post your questions here.

Learning from Shawn110975:
When you order, must make sure your name, correct contact information, current shipping address are included on the Paypal shopping invoice. If not sure, you should always email us to avoid any delay, confusion, & misunderstanding.
This is your responsibility. People who continue to provide inaccurate info will be warned once and blocked so we don't spend our time chasing our tail.

To show our appreciation of you visiting this site, please click this link and enter your name and email address to enter a drawing. In the Comment section please write a comment e.g. NSX parts you would like us to make or write "Entering The Drawing". At the completion of the drawing, we will contact 5 people with a $20 gift card each of a major store of your choice.

 

[ALwAyS4SaLe]

I'm interested in the front bar... Any pictures? Price?

 

[liftnot]

I will have pix of the ARB 2.0 when its made. Hopefully by next wkend. the above pic is part of the proto for the rear with geometry is now corrected. The proto ARB was made to proof of concept and ck functionality. the parts were not of quality so if I post them, it may create more confusion. Surf my site and you'll see we make quality parts for track but they are not boutique to keep cost down.

for reference, DAL NSX Bladed ARB was about $1.3-1.4K per bar 10-15yr ago. Our won't be that much due to qty. but are engineered as a bolt-on set. We intend to sell these as a set to keep the biz running as we put up $$$$$ up front to have them made. After this batch, I am willing to take orders just for the front or rear pending Qty. from a production POV and pricing POV.

 

[excellon]

Interested in ABS Delete kit. Like more details and what is needed/included.

Thanks
Jeff

 

[dablackgoku1234]

Just check your site, the ABS delete kit is $310? Am I reading this correctly?

 

[liftnot]

Just check your site, the ABS delete kit is $310? Am I reading this correctly?

the introductory price is $260 + USPS Flat Rate shipping within US. I will post a pic of what is all included when I receive my order later this week. Just want folks to know whats in the works.
Thx
Tim

 

[Mac Attack]

Wow - That ABS delete kit looks just like what I made a few years ago, complete with the mounting bar and optional brake bias. I guess imitation is the highest form of flattery....

Looks good. I know a lot of people have asked me to make them a kit, but bending and flaring the hard lines takes too much time. The hoses are much more convenient.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/165637-ABS-delete?p=1622443&viewfull=1#post1622443

 

[MileHighNSX]

Tim,

Thanks for the PM, I just sent you a response. How coincidental that today I posted up about my ABS actuator going bonkers here: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-when-the-ABS-modulator-is-going-bad-on-my-91 on me today that you post this up and PM me about the ABS delete :smile: I'll let you know if the flushing of the solenoids works or not?

 

[davidf]

Sent you a PM.:wink:

 

[liftnot]

Wow - That ABS delete kit looks just like what I made a few years ago, complete with the mounting bar and optional brake bias. I guess imitation is the highest form of flattery....

Mac,
your kit I would call the "boutique" version of ours as hardlines are "de best" but its impossible to do consistently by hand and make a production run nor would it be affordable. Ours are the "race" version as it may not be elegant like yours but its totally functional.

There are only so many ways to make a delete kit. However you make it, it would look very similar. we based ours on the Dali Kit which was incomplete with wrong flare and brass fittings (ours is one piece), no master-to-junction block lines, no proper mount, no provision for a prop. valve and easy to kink SS 2-layer lines etc. but it was totally functional.

They do make copper-nickle hard line that bends easier by hand and that will be the material of choice for our short ABS to Tilton Prop. Valve line later on.

btw Dave, your car is mucho clean

Tim,

Thanks for the PM, I just sent you a response. How coincidental that today I posted up about my ABS actuator going bonkers here: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-when-the-ABS-modulator-is-going-bad-on-my-91 on me today that you post this up and PM me about the ABS delete :smile: I'll let you know if the flushing of the solenoids works or not?

To answer your question from the PM, yes, the ABS light does stay on. We were told to you have to remove the ABS module behind the glove box but its tied with the TCM (circa 1993) so we unplugged both of them but the light is still on. We decided to put everything back the way it was and chase the wiring later....much later. We flushed and fussed around with it but decided it had to go.

As you well know, there are many threads and opinions about delete or not delete or upgrade to the '02 ABS. Our thoughts are the early version are slow acting, heavy and antiquated....the 02 ABS is nice but the kit is $$$$ + hard to install and it was designed in the late '90. Its only better than the early version but "probably" not as good as the ABS of today. We have no data so it just a WAG.

If we spend $$$$ on a part its purpose to slow down the car during threshold/max braking, in addition to saving ~15lbs., we want to be able to use it all the time not just when its needed which is not often and not safe to do on the street/club drive and you should slow down or not drive the car in the rain.

Although its nice to be able to activate it at the track with racing slicks, we rather learn to brake with our foot to feel the car's braking behavior in an analog way to improve our driving skills. We have other ways to gain the few tenths you may loose w/o the ABS. Besides, not many if any of us are doing much of prof. class wheel to wheel racing with price money. Just an opinion.

 

[Rope]

You can put me down for the ABS delete and the SS lines.

 

[Veleno]

ABS delete for me!

 

[Mac Attack]

Mac,
your kit I would call the "boutique" version of ours as hardlines are "de best" but its impossible to do consistently by hand and make a production run nor would it be affordable. Ours are the "race" version as it may not be elegant like yours but its totally functional.

There are only so many ways to make a delete kit. However you make it, it would look very similar. we based ours on the Dali Kit which was incomplete with wrong flare and brass fittings (ours is one piece), no master-to-junction block lines, no proper mount, no provision for a prop. valve and easy to kink SS 2-layer lines etc. but it was totally functional.

They do make copper-nickle hard line that bends easier by hand and that will be the material of choice for our short ABS to Tilton Prop. Valve line later on.

btw Dave, your car is mucho clean

No worries - that's why I posted pics of my setup. It is a huge improvement to the Dali kit. I started with the Dali kit too, and then gsrboy's brake plumbing ideas inspired me to make some modifications. Brakes are one of the most important systems on your car - that's why it is worth it to have a solid system like this installed.

BTW - I had considered that Tilton prop valve, but for most "semi-street-driven" NSX's that you may be catering for, the lever may be an issue. They are indented, but may change by accident (towel-drying under the hood, etc). That's why I like the knob-style Russell 654000 (that, and I could see the pressure-reduction curve for this one vs. the other prop valves).

Dave

 

[Sasha]

how much is that ? please PM , very interested.

 

[charlee]

Can anyone chime in (Mac) on how to properly disabling the ABS light without removing the bulb.

 

[excellon]

In for ABS Kit - does it include prop valve? Is there an option to go with knob-style like Dave has?

Thanks

 

[Mac Attack]

Can anyone chime in (Mac) on how to properly disabling the ABS light without removing the bulb.

I removed my ABS at the same time as my TCS (and cruise control but that should be unrelated). That allowed me to remove the TCS stepper motor at the side of the TB (made a thin aluminum cover), the wheel speed sensors (hub openings were plugged of course), and the ABS and TCS computers. Removing all that stuff at once resulted in an "off" ABS light in the dash for me.

As liftnot stated above, apparently just removing the ABS computer doesn't turn off the dash light. The TCS and cruise control were useless features for me.

Dave

 

[TURBO2GO]

I still am not sure what a 2.0 is and how it differs from any other ARB

 

[liftnot]

In for ABS Kit - does it include prop valve? Is there an option to go with knob-style like Dave has?

Thanks

Prop. valve is not included. we will look into the knob style option. perhaps drill and tap another hole/ 2 will do the trick.

- - - Updated - - -

2.0 is race-style bladed ARB fully adjustable from full stiff to full soft depending the bar dia., in our case, its an one inch OD for a bolt-on install no surgery/fiddling needed and w/ 4130 and aerospace material for the blade, we are able to achieve more stiffness and adjustability as if it were a one piece DOM mild steel. A bigger Dia is more idea but not practical for most app on Prime except a few all out track cars.

ARB 1.0 is what you have, which in theory, it only has one correct position to retain the proper geometry. the real difference of the OEM and all the AF ARB is the Dia. If the end-links are not perpendicular to the mount, you will have REIB(rod end in bending) which is a no-no in race car design. If you have not bend your rod-end on track, it just means the adjustment holes are not in the critical range to cause a problem which means they are not truly adjustable at all. Or, you tires/suspension set up are not capable generating enough load during turns to bend the rod-end.

rod-ends are designed only to take care thrust load and most people just use bigger rod-ends to take care the extra shock load and sometimes it works fine but that is blacksmith/redneck not engineering.

- - - Updated - - -

I still am not sure what a 2.0 is and how it differs from any other ARB

Dave, see above post and I will post more pix once the parts are done. Est. 2-3 weeks. Or you can google bladed ARB and you will see many.

Race Car Vehicle Dynamics will help you to go faster w/o more HP

 

[Gary W]

Can anyone chime in (Mac) on how to properly disabling the ABS light without removing the bulb.

I took the light bulb out of the dash, no more CEL.

Gary

 

[TURBO2GO]

P
Dave, see above post and I will post more pix once the parts are done. Est. 2-3 weeks. Or you can google bladed ARB and you will see many.

Yeah it looks like a pretty trick part and thank you for making it, I see some of its capabilities but I am still lost about the way it functions. 1.0 is so easy to understand. LOL. Will this be front or front and rear? Any idea on price range?

 

[sharkwerks]

hi guys can i get one too please

 

[RYU]

Awesome stuff here. Full support from me for this vendor (fwiw )

 

[liftnot]

Yeah it looks like a pretty trick part and thank you for making it, I see some of its capabilities but I am still lost about the way it functions. 1.0 is so easy to understand. LOL. Will this be front or front and rear? Any idea on price range?

Its simple but clever thus valuable. Imagining a long knife blade when you're cutting say a watermelon, you have to use it in the most stiff position. If you turn the blade on its side(90*), it will be in the most soft position and flex like a wet noodle. This particular part is the heart of the system and most expen$ive as it goes thru many cycles but well below the yield point of the material. We chose not making a remote adjustable mechanism as it will add another $500+ to the system nor using needle-nose bearings for the adjuster cuz there is little space in the cabin to mount the remote.

We found a simple, manual, cost effective way for the adjustment so it can be somewhat affordable on a great chassis like the NSX. We used this on the Nissan GTP/GTO(Steve Millien 300ZX Turbo)/GTU cars with great results.
We ran an analysis and the curve is not quite linear but not exponential either. This is nothing new, it does not affect your corner balance, you can trim your car according to your suspension set up, track conditions, weight distributions, grip level...etc..it can still be found on many higher end race cars before the electronic dampers ARB 3.0 we have today in many supercars.

we're committed and had invested $$$$$ to have 25 sets of front & rear made cuz we know they work knowing its not for everybody mainly due to $$ in the past but for the hardcore track rats. We believe/hope/trust that at least 25 Primers can see the value of this part cuz the next 25+ set will need a non-refundable deposit to make it happen again.

The production schedule has been pushed back many times due to many shop related reasons but the design has been frozen since April. More patient is needed.

Cost wise, considering DAL ABR was ~$1300/ea 10yr+ ago and we are trying to meet this at a-set price and we still have heat treating and powder coating to do.

Note to all - Considering the limited market size of our cars, this endeavor is more of a labor of love than trying to get rich. If you think this part cost too much, you are not ready and you probably don't need this part as its not rice....but, we will have other product that will help you lower your lap time. If you set the front to full soft and the rear full stiff, you just might be de next Drift King.

hi guys can i get one too please

you're in.
More pix will be posted later this week b 4 we take your $$ so you'll know exactly what you're getting. If time permits, we might even have the mounting brackets drill/tapped for the knob-style prop. valve.

 

[davidf]

Is a proportioning valve really necessary for the ABS delete to function?