2k Miles - Slipping already - ScienceofSpeed Twin Carbon 700 Clutch & Flywheel

[synikster]

2,000 or less miles on this clutch setup.
6xx whp - SOS TT

The car can BARELY move in gear. Slips past anything 2,000 RPM. Car drove fine prior. Perfect actually. It didn't gradually slip. One day, it decide it did not want to move any more. I have own and driven many high hp cars. I honestly know how this clutch should be driven, never do I leave my feet on the pedal any more then I need to. But all the clutch that have treated me well, usually slips only when I wear them down past the rivets. Not like this. (locally RPS has a hit and miss name, due to similar issues.) Carbon disc was design to take the heat better, last longer, and is stronger! But this seems to be not the case. I was briefly told from SOS that this is driver error or installation/adjustment. It's an insult, yet alone they completely forgot that the clutch was installed at SOS facility prior being stored. I honestly love the company and would want to work with SOS further on other NSX products, but this somewhat leaves a sour taste. 2,000 miles for something that was supposedly be something so great on longevity is unacceptable. I have own Exedy / OSgiken / ACT / Competition clutch over many years, and this is honestly the lowest operating clutch mile out there.

From inspection everything looked normal, other then little clutch dust. Only wear visible is the plate that comes in contact with the flywheel. There is plenty of meat life left on all disc.

http://i59.tinypic.com/212wnsz.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/10ydyco.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2hf83ky.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2h5ohti.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/adkdqt.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/24l7h2o.jpg <---only plate I see with wear, this is the one facing the flywheel (back side is fine, little to no wear)
http://i60.tinypic.com/v7tyd2.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/28lz4tl.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2evyl5k.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2w685fd.jpg

Here's a prestine example from a corvette owner. A "rebuild" will fix it, but there is no FLAW at all from these pictures and his own measurements.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...57-rps-twin-disc-clutch-problem-pictures.html

Is there a design error we don't know about, where a "rebuild" will cure all bad problems?
My GUESS, its a weak pressure plate. I do know RPS has upgraded to something stronger over the years, secretly. - No fact guys. Just assumptions. Any ideas?

 

[RYU]

Same thing happened to Stephen (SFDreamer) when he was here in SoCal at the time. We were driving in the canyons and his clutch went out. Sos said it was not adjusted right as well...


I'm still very happy with my OSGiken. 10k miles and counting...

 

[synikster]

Did you remember how many miles was through his clutch?
[MENTION=9083]Hugh[/MENTION] - 2,000 miles was the happy mark here as well.

Same thing happened to Stephen (SFDreamer) when he was here in SoCal at the time. We were driving in the canyons and his clutch went out. Sos said it was not adjusted right as well...


I'm still very happy with my OSGiken. 10k miles and counting...

 

[Mac Attack]

2,000 or less miles on this clutch setup.
6xx whp - SOS TT

The car can BARELY move in gear. Slips past anything 2,000 RPM. Car drove fine prior. Perfect actually. It didn't gradually slip. One day, it decide it did not want to move any more. I have own and driven many high hp cars. I honestly know how this clutch should be driven, never do I leave my feet on the pedal any more then I need to. But all the clutch that have treated me well, usually slips only when I wear them down past the rivets. Not like this. (locally RPS has a hit and miss name, due to similar issues.) Carbon disc was design to take the heat better, last longer, and is stronger! But this seems to be not the case. I was briefly told from SOS that this is driver error or installation/adjustment. It's an insult, yet alone they completely forgot that the clutch was installed at SOS facility prior being stored. I honestly love the company and would want to work with SOS further on other NSX products, but this somewhat leaves a sour taste. 2,000 miles for something that was supposedly be something so great on longevity is unacceptable. I have own Exedy / OSgiken / ACT / Competition clutch over many years, and this is honestly the lowest operating clutch mile out there.

From inspection everything looked normal, other then little clutch dust. Only wear visible is the plate that comes in contact with the flywheel. There is plenty of meat life left on all disc.

http://i59.tinypic.com/212wnsz.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/10ydyco.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2hf83ky.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2h5ohti.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/adkdqt.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/24l7h2o.jpg <---only plate I see with wear, this is the one facing the flywheel (back side is fine, little to no wear)
http://i60.tinypic.com/v7tyd2.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/28lz4tl.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2evyl5k.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2w685fd.jpg

Here's a prestine example from a corvette owner. A "rebuild" will fix it, but there is no FLAW at all from these pictures and his own measurements.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...57-rps-twin-disc-clutch-problem-pictures.html

Is there a design error we don't know about, where a "rebuild" will cure all bad problems?
My GUESS, its a weak pressure plate. I do know RPS has upgraded to something stronger over the years, secretly.

I'm sorry to hear that. Now that I have had a chance to look through the pictures and read what happened, it looks like the clutch is still breaking in. The most limiting wear pattern is on the flywheel pads and the second disc like you noted. The small contact patch looks pretty glazed over.

You said it worked fine one day and then was completely slipping the next. The pictures rule out an obvious pressure plate or pad defect (other than the limited contact patch that is glazed). The day before it slipped, I assume you were aggressively driving it? Maybe since it wasn't completely broken in (or had a manufacturing defect on the flatness of those pads), it overheated and glazed that area over?

The stories I've heard about this clutch prompted my questions on it a few years ago in this thread:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/150967-Science-of-Speed-twin-carbon-clutch-review?

You have the "updated" RPS with the carbon friction liners on the flywheel.

I'm putting about 390 ft-lb of torque (350 to the wheels) through my RPS twin carbon from as low as 2500 RPM and it hits a peak wheel torque of 420 ft-lbs at 6500 RPM. So, while I don't have ultimate torque bragging rights, it is getting a workout. I only have about 500 miles with this setup though (broke it in when my car was N/A) and your experience is going to make sure I get it broken in really well before subjecting it to a lot of abuse.

RYU - I specifically stayed away from the OS because of Trev's negative feedback on it from years and years ago. That, and I was worried about it holding the torque long-term.

Why can't we get decent clutches for these things?

 

[synikster]

Why can't we get decent clutches for these things?

Mac,

Carbon technically don't "glaze". As I am aware, they're suppose to be smooth like glass once broken in. The original new state for the clutch disc/pad is very rough looking from the fibers.

The clutch has been thoroughly broken in. I have ran few time attack laps and drag runs through this clutch, worked flawlessly. This gave out few weeks after any run. So no, went daily driving it then it started to slip, no close events. The car see's about 6xx HP & 5xx TQ daily. I don't feather this clutch either. Usually on or off.

Do you have any more information on "Trevs" old OS feedback/problems?

- - - Updated - - -

Here's the measurement I got from my micrometer that I have sent over to Chris @ SOS. The original thickness spec was provided by Chris.

Flywheel - .170 Pad Thickness
Disc 1 - .2270" (original .225") <--this is the one that shows a little wear, but nothing serious.
Mid Disc - .2915" (original .305-.310")
Disc 2 - .2395" (original .225") <--thicker?
Floating Disc - .100 Pad Thickness


They all seem to show very little wear. Very well within their original brand new tolerance. Not close to .060" loss to significantly lose clamping force. Only narrowing down to one thing. The pressure plate losing clamping force?

Waiting on Chris to put in his input.

 

[liftnot]

One should have only one CTE(Coef.Thermo Expansion) on the FW => Chromoly, not multiple.
with alum FW like the RPS, there are multiple material on the surface and the CTE for each are not always linear like the alum.
when asked Chris a few years ago why RPS doesn't make one piece FW, he said it was cost. :frown:

FWIW & IIRC: Non of these companies make alum FW - Toda, Tilton, AP, Exedy, OSG, QM, etc.

Trev is very fast at change clutches. I drove his car and it only rattle a bit when you clutch in but it engage much quicker than oem. How often do you clutch in anyways. He couldn't stand it but I thought it was just fine.

A few track guys run Exedy twin carbon and I drove it and love it. that is my next clutch.
Exedy came out with a new clutch at SEMA w/o any of our input and it weights a porky 29 lbs and its twin organic not the new VF line. I was disappointed.

 

[Mac Attack]

The diaphragm springs are made out of steel. There is virtually no way they could have thermally relaxed and made your clamping force basically zero, especially if you didn't notice any obvious defects in the cover.

While, technically, carbon doesn't glaze, RPS has had a history of poor quality control. Perhaps they didn't bake the carbon long enough to remove the impurities in your carbon material? Your clutch doesn't show any obvious physical defects, so I can think of only three reasons for it to slip:

1) Your clutch hydraulic system is messed up and won't let the clutch engage properly.
2) Your carbon materials had a defect that somehow made them "glaze" over and loose friction.
3) SOS or the installer put too much grease on the splines and that finally worked its way to the friction liners.

I was very careful when I installed mine and just used a TINY bit of grease. I also measured the thickness in each plate in multiple locations as a baseline (I just moved so I don't have my engine build sheet readily available to compare thicknesses to - sorry). I also did runout tests, and was EXTREMELY careful putting the transmission back on. Those discs are fragile and can be damaged if you hang the transmission spline on them. It was much easier to do with the engine out of the car, but a PITA anyway you do it.

Hopefully SOS or RPS takes care of you. You have a really nice car with all of the SOS goodies - they should take care of you.

Dave

- - - Updated - - -

One should have only one CTE(Coef.Thermo Expansion) on the FW => Chromoly, not multiple.
with alum FW like the RPS, there are multiple material on the surface and the CTE for each are not always linear like the alum.
when asked Chris a few years ago why RPS doesn't make one piece FW, he said it was cost. :frown:

Kinda hard to tell from your post, but the RPS twin carbon DOES NOT have an aluminum flywheel. See the picture above for proof.

 

[liftnot]

Ok Thx. the picture above saz it all.

 

[synikster]

Yea, its an odd situation.

I do notice there are few grease lines around some of the disc. (it was more apparent, although some disc I wiped it light with my glove (naturally to dust things out) which I should have left. I attached a picture of the disc that I circled in red. The most apparent has the most wear (but all within spec). I wonder if this one was slipping the most, causing the more unusual wear, due to the grease? I am the same way when I install all my clutch, I usually get a paper towel and wipe the spline down to grease it just enough to coat and pick up the rest wiping them. I wonder was this enough to give way and let things slip. The lines do run fairly out onto the disc. (this was installed at SOS btw).

The carbon looks ok, not uniform all around, but it seems nothing out of the ordinary. I do see odd heat/scuff marks (probably from slipping).


Overall the car / turbo setup / motor is amazing. I'd love to yell out SOS at all events, as everything else looks spotless. I try to be reasonable and maybe it's something I'm overlooking. But honestly, its a strange situation.

The diaphragm springs are made out of steel. There is virtually no way they could have thermally relaxed and made your clamping force basically zero, especially if you didn't notice any obvious defects in the cover.

While, technically, carbon doesn't glaze, RPS has had a history of poor quality control. Perhaps they didn't bake the carbon long enough to remove the impurities in your carbon material? Your clutch doesn't show any obvious physical defects, so I can think of only three reasons for it to slip:

1) Your clutch hydraulic system is messed up and won't let the clutch engage properly.
2) Your carbon materials had a defect that somehow made them "glaze" over and loose friction.
3) SOS or the installer put too much grease on the splines and that finally worked its way to the friction liners.
IMG]

- - - Updated - - -



Kinda hard to tell from your post, but the RPS twin carbon DOES NOT have an aluminum flywheel. See the picture above for proof.

 

[jaffaz32]

2,000 or less miles on this clutch setup.
6xx whp - SOS TT

The car can BARELY move in gear. Slips past anything 2,000 RPM. Car drove fine prior. Perfect actually. It didn't gradually slip. One day, it decide it did not want to move any more. I have own and driven many high hp cars. I honestly know how this clutch should be driven, never do I leave my feet on the pedal any more then I need to. But all the clutch that have treated me well, usually slips only when I wear them down past the rivets. Not like this. (locally RPS has a hit and miss name, due to similar issues.) Carbon disc was design to take the heat better, last longer, and is stronger! But this seems to be not the case. I was briefly told from SOS that this is driver error or installation/adjustment. It's an insult, yet alone they completely forgot that the clutch was installed at SOS facility prior being stored. I honestly love the company and would want to work with SOS further on other NSX products, but this somewhat leaves a sour taste. 2,000 miles for something that was supposedly be something so great on longevity is unacceptable. I have own Exedy / OSgiken / ACT / Competition clutch over many years, and this is honestly the lowest operating clutch mile out there.

From inspection everything looked normal, other then little clutch dust. Only wear visible is the plate that comes in contact with the flywheel. There is plenty of meat life left on all disc.

http://i59.tinypic.com/212wnsz.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/10ydyco.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2hf83ky.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2h5ohti.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/adkdqt.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/24l7h2o.jpg <---only plate I see with wear, this is the one facing the flywheel (back side is fine, little to no wear)
http://i60.tinypic.com/v7tyd2.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/28lz4tl.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2evyl5k.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2w685fd.jpg

Here's a prestine example from a corvette owner. A "rebuild" will fix it, but there is no FLAW at all from these pictures and his own measurements.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...57-rps-twin-disc-clutch-problem-pictures.html

Is there a design error we don't know about, where a "rebuild" will cure all bad problems?
My GUESS, its a weak pressure plate. I do know RPS has upgraded to something stronger over the years, secretly.

OMG.....!!!!!!!!

SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME AS WELL....!!

I had to pay to ship it back to USA from the UK, the cost of getting it rebuilt, wasn't cheap! then the return postage!

But i also had the costs of removing and still have the cost to refit it which i currently still can't afford to do.

I had a go at my mechanic as SOS said it wasn't adjusted properly. It was down to install fine fare enough but if it is down to clutch fault...

It had only done around the same mileage as yours,

Turned out to be one expensive clutch.


Funnily enough the clutch has been redesigned / upgraded. Now i'm wondering why? perhaps a common issue? so why have we all been told it wasn't adjusted correctly and had to for out thousands of pounds because of a fault with the clutch itself which is looking like the case.

I said originally to SOS there must be something wrong with it or a design fault, they insisted it was down to being adjusted wrong when installed.

I don't know what to believe now, i've spent so much money with SOS over the years as well.

 

[UnhuZ]

Hi,

i read a lot of primers, publically and in private, having nightmares with SOS clutchs... ALL models..

red flag to me..

Thanks,
Nuno

 

[synikster]

Hmm. Alot of people dont really post a bad review. Alot tend to say good things about it. But it seems like a common problem. I too been having various messages come to me with them having the same issue. Online/facebook/private messages.

It sure does get expensive with initial buy, installation, removal, rebuild, installation again. Extremely. Have those who have the rebuild have any problem since? Being that installation was the same. Pedal was the same. (Although i know this is crap).

What did you end up paying for rebuild and labor again?
Something really to consider guys. Reliability is way important in the long run. Will you risk it? Almost like gambling. The headache and time involved is insane.

OMG.....!!!!!!!!

SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME AS WELL....!!

I had to pay to ship it back to USA from the UK, the cost of getting it rebuilt, wasn't cheap! then the return postage!

But i also had the costs of removing and still have the cost to refit it which i currently still can't afford to do.

I had a go at my mechanic as SOS said it wasn't adjusted properly. It was down to install fine fare enough but if it is down to clutch fault...

It had only done around the same mileage as yours,

Turned out to be one expensive clutch.


Funnily enough the clutch has been redesigned / upgraded. Now i'm wondering why? perhaps a common issue? so why have we all been told it wasn't adjusted correctly and had to for out thousands of pounds because of a fault with the clutch itself which is looking like the case.

I said originally to SOS there must be something wrong with it or a design fault, they insisted it was down to being adjusted wrong when installed.

I don't know what to believe now, i've spent so much money with SOS over the years as well.

 

[Mac Attack]

If SOS has said these failed clutches were due to an "adjustment" issue, then what is the right way to adjust them?

If you haven't changed the clutch pedal pivot points or the hydraulic system, then the piston and fork travel should be to OEM specs. If the discs haven't measurably worn, how can it not be "adjusted" correctly?

So, bottom line is that I know of at least FIVE (synikster, jaffaz, sfdreamer, and two of hughs) SOS/RPS clutches with less than 8k miles on them that have suddenly started slipping. With the limited number of these sold, statistically, that can't be good.

 

[docjohn]

Chris is a pretty transparent small business owner has anyone presented him with the data?

 

[synikster]

What's crazy is that NO ONE posted problems on this forum. I only knew of Hugh because I contacted him. I originally thought it was just a oddball lemon that I have. But digging deeper, seems like its a RPS design problem.

I was told one thing after another from SOS: I was keeping an open mind and maybe I could be wrong.
-*Pedal not adjusted correctly (first initial phone call, immediately asserted this) - SOS clutch installed. (I checked anyways, it was factory spec).
-then pointed at *Driver error - Not meant for the street. Not meant for stop and go situations (whatever this means for a clutch system) Insult at its finest.
-then suggested other WEAKER clutch instead. (I am not interested in a weaker clutch with 800whp+)
-then suggested rebuild at $900-1500. Rebuild what? Every spec on the clutch is spot on, what will be replace other then what they know is the root of all evil?
-then pointed at *Feathering it too much - Causing rapid wear (micrometer reading says otherwise, little wear).
-then *Sent pics. Was told I got discontinued 5 year old clutch. Told him purchased 3 years ago. Then reassured him it was their newest version. He then agreed.
*Was told I got the Organic Flywheel, when clearly I sent all these photo by email to Chris. I had to zoom in and show him the kevlar/carbon flywheel picture. He then agreed.
-----------I seriously think there is no other things to narrow it down to, then a faulty design. Most clutch I have driven successfully over the years, wear down to the metal and plate and still grabs and go! (40-100k miles) on high hp applications. 2k is just un reasonable for a normal looking clutch.

SOS list these clutch as:
"Other carbon clutches mesh carbon-carbon with steel which results in heavy shudder and rapid wear."
"The carbon-carbon discs allows the clutch to hold high load while offering smooth engagement and long life."
"very stock-like pedal pressure making the clutch easy to drive onboth the street in stop and go traffic or at the track."

Anyone else has problem? I'm out of options here...

If SOS has said these failed clutches were due to an "adjustment" issue, then what is the right way to adjust them?

If you haven't changed the clutch pedal pivot points or the hydraulic system, then the piston and fork travel should be to OEM specs. If the discs haven't measurably worn, how can it not be "adjusted" correctly?

So, bottom line is that I know of at least FIVE (synikster, jaffaz, sfdreamer, and two of hughs) SOS/RPS clutches with less than 8k miles on them that have suddenly started slipping. With the limited number of these sold, statistically, that can't be good.

- - - Updated - - -

Chris is a pretty transparent small business owner has anyone presented him with the data?

I do agree, Chris has been great with his emails and communication, professionally. I hope something can be resolved. Although, my intentions on here is to find anyone else with a similar problem as it seems no one has posted any information about this. (although I know that I am not the only one). It's always great to grow as a business, not move few steps back.

 

[Mac Attack]

The stories I've heard about this clutch prompted my questions on it a few years ago in this thread:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/150967-Science-of-Speed-twin-carbon-clutch-review?

You have the "updated" RPS with the carbon friction liners on the flywheel.

Look at my post #10 from the thread above. I had heard the same "rumors" and wanted to know more before buying one years ago. But you're right - people are reluctant to post their negative feedback on products. You don't have to "bash" anyone... it can be done constructively. People are basing their significant buying decisions on product feedback and longevity... it's nice to know any kind of drawbacks on a product.

I don't have flash cash to just go through $2500 clutches every 5k miles and then pay for the labor on top.

I'll be honest - If I did, I would be driving a Ferrari.

 

[synikster]

For the record. Again. The cmc preload was spot on to oem spec. I am literally tearing my hair out seeing SOS ask me this over and over. Yes, it was checked over and over many times prior dropping the box. The clutch pedal was perfect and car drove amazing, everything felt just right. Until 1 day it slips and that was the end of that.

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

I'm very sorry that you are having problems with the clutch.

There is some incorrect information on this thread that I'd like to address.

1. the pressure plate diaphragm spring is the same spring that has been used for 6+ years now. It was never "secretly" replaced. This spring is an OEM spring used by Honda, FYI.

2. the spring does not "lose pressure". What causes a clutch to slip is the friction liner wearing. As the liner wears, the clamp force generated by the spring reduces because the leverage of the spring on the stack decreases. As detailed in the e-mail sent to you, the wear that you've measured indicates the clutch is still within operational life, which is why we recommended to make sure that the clutch fork is not being pre-loaded by the hydraulic system.

3. also in our e-mail was a note that the other way a pressure plate can not come to the "home" fully compressed position is if the input shaft or the release bearing collar has corrosion. Remember, this clutch was installed more 3 years ago and this car sat in outside storage for ~2 years before you bought it. We suggest that you inspect these components. Based on the inspection of the hydraulic system and the components mentioned, we can then have the clutch inspected which includes assembly and pressure check to verify operational life.

4. Mac Attack is correct that an over application of grease can contaminate the friction liners, however, this would have been experienced from day one. The car was driven several hundred miles, including 800+ WHP dyno testing before the current owner purchased the car.

5. Nuno - With nearly 500+ ScienceofSpeed clutches in the field used by customers today, we likely have the most clutches aside from the factory clutch being used by NSX owners today. These are solid designs that use quality components (such as OEM pressure plates) that are time and track proven.

This is unrelated to the clutch being discussed, but a good time to discuss this topic. Clutch durability, from any manufacture, largely depends on proper installation. There are two common install problems which customers have discussed online. These are not unique to our clutches, but any clutch used on the NSX. With the ScienceofSpeed clutches being the most popular aftermarket choice, you will likely hear the most about them on NSXPrime. The first installation error is not adjusting the master cylinder after installation. Different clutches have different stack heights (ie. the clutch removed may have a different position requirement of the clutch fork compared to the new clutch being put in). By not adjusting the master cylinder, accelerated wear can occur (it is similar to you leaving your foot on the clutch pedal while the clutch is engaged). The second common error is hanging the transmission from the clutch plate during installation. With out proper installation equipment to support the transmission, techs have allowed the weight of the transmission to be supported by the clutch disc's hub while they try to maneuver the transmission in to the pilot bearing. This can cause the clutch disc to fail immediately, or over time, from small stress cracks put in to the friction liner. However, once disassembled, the cause is easy to see from the friction liner being cracked and the rivet heads being all bent in one direction. We have taken pains to include features in the clutches which make them the toughest design available - double row fasteners, steel-backed friction liners, etc. and with high quality OEM sourced components. We've also taken the time to produce the most thorough instructions with photos, diagrams, and big bolded highlights about proper installation. Despite using much higher quality components than other overseas manufactured clutches, our clutches remain in-line or lower priced than other options. Hope this information helps to make informed choices.

 

[UnhuZ]

Hi Chris,

i understand what you say and the points you highlight.

What i said is that i heard problems with your clutchs, not of a specific one, but from the
first to the last in your line of clutchs.

A very small % of what i heard/read was here in Prime... I don't know why, but a lot of
guys that buy parts from top vendors, including SOS, don't make public their problems.
A fair ammount of them don't even contacted Vendors with the problems and moved on to
other brands... This makes difficult for a vendor to know the % of failures from the total
they sold.

I'm not bashing you or your products in any way, very far from it, but as a buyer, i have
to rely on what others experienced so i can minimize the chances of having a bad experience
myself.... i can't totally save me from bad experiences, but the better i minimize the chances
of them happening, the better.

Only you know the numbers of your sales, but as Mac stated, the top of the line Twin CF is
more specific and expensive, so less owners buy them... 5 KNOWN failures added to the ones
hidden out there (1 or 20, not known), makes us think that instalation problems is not the
only issue here.

To conclude, i salute you for backing up the parts you sell, and to come up with new parts
frequently... with all your problems and virtues as a Vendor, you are a must have asset to
this community.

Thanks,
Nuno

 

[RYU]

I'm glad the guys at SOS are around and continue to provide options and parts for our cars. Being a vendor for super low volume parts is difficult. Hope this gets resolved and it works out for all parties involved.

I'm relatively low torque and low HP compared to posters on this thread so perhaps my experienced have no merit in this context. Good luck guys.

 

[J-RnsxT]

CARBONETICS is your answer!!!! A little chatter on tripple, I dont know how much chatter on dual, mines on 585 whp @ 35k miles and still have plenty to go.

 

[synikster]

I appreciate the response by email/forum.

Everything was thoroughly checked. No rust. No seizing. New fluids.
I will most likely send the clutch in and you can examine it yourself Chris, to the address on the form.

I agree installation is everything. Everything can go wrong here. As I have successfully install hundreds of clutch with little to no problem. Although this specific clutch was installed at SOS. Just to note* Assuming top notch installation.

 

[jorligan]

I also have a SOS twin. Purchased it from a Primer who had less than 5K miles before a necessary rebuild but that truly may have been driver issues. My clutch has been in and out multiple times because of blown motors. It currently has around 10K miles with multiple track events. It have never been used with less than 550 RWHP and at one point, it was at an estimated 800 RWHP (670 on a Mustang Dyno but could maintain traction with a 3.5 Comptech race engine). Has minimal wear and absolutely no slip

 

[synikster]

[MENTION=4260]ScienceofSpeed[/MENTION]

Chris, do you happen to think this is an installation error? I do notice the picture I posted above shown the disc that has the most wear, have an excessive amount of grease coming from the spline outward onto the pad. This can cause slipping no doubt. (installed at sos).

Let me know whats possible. As everything ruled out to be normal other then the only clear sign I see, is too much grease? When there should be none around that area.

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I also have a SOS twin. Purchased it from a Primer who had less than 5K miles before a necessary rebuild but that truly may have been driver issues. My clutch has been in and out multiple times because of blown motors. It currently has around 10K miles with multiple track events. It have never been used with less than 550 RWHP and at one point, it was at an estimated 800 RWHP (670 on a Mustang Dyno but could maintain traction with a 3.5 Comptech race engine). Has minimal wear and absolutely no slip

Thats great news! As I have seen with alot of people that did have issues, the "rebuild" cures all problems onward. Only reason I was very curious on why is this? Driver issue can be a possibility, but I don't think its rocket science to drive this clutch either.

 

[goldNSX]

My clutch has been in and out multiple times because of blown motors.

That's the even more expensive route.
Seriously, if you go for 600+ hp things can go wrong and some parts that are reliable with less hp get 'consumables'. Don't blame it on the supplier, better make yourself responsible taking the risk going a crazy route with an unkown end (but a lot of fun). I don't want to blame anybody, to each it's own. But playing in such a rare and high leaque people should plenty of indulgence (and money). Just my 0.02.