This thread is awesome.
1991 "Factory Fresh" Build
- Thread starter Honcho
- Start date
Won't have a chance to work on it this weekend, but will certainly post finished pics and do a review in the Vendor forum. My initial impression is positive. The kits are very well made and the leather quality is excellent. I chose "Bone" over the exact-match "Ecru" for price reasons and because I really want the seats to pop against the black exterior and carpet. I would say "Bone" is one shade whiter than the factory Ivory. Since I am using a black carpet, but keeping the Ivory trim, it works perfectly. If I were using an Ivory carpet, I might go for the "Ecru" instead, despite the $400 premium.
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FRUSTRATION!!! 
My suspension removal did not go well. The write ups made it seem so easy- just sit on the 2x4 and it will pop right out! Yeah, right! Here is how far I got before throwing in the towel and calling for reinforcements.
Feeling discouraged, I went back to something I knew I could do well- Valve covers and upholstery!
I should have the seats done this weekend, save for the black clips. Kinda the same spot Shawn found himself in with his leatherseats kit.
I was thinking of using velcro instead...
My suspension removal did not go well. The write ups made it seem so easy- just sit on the 2x4 and it will pop right out! Yeah, right! Here is how far I got before throwing in the towel and calling for reinforcements.
Feeling discouraged, I went back to something I knew I could do well- Valve covers and upholstery!
I should have the seats done this weekend, save for the black clips. Kinda the same spot Shawn found himself in with his leatherseats kit.
I was thinking of using velcro instead...
- Joined
- 30 October 2011
- Messages
- 599
Put a prybar in through the top suspension arm and have a buddy push down on it. then, slide the bottom of the strut onto the top of one of the strut mounting flanges then let the pry bar go and let the suspension arm compress the strut. then right as your buddy pushes the suspension arms back down quickly slide the strut toward the back of the car. voilaa! its out.
Hopefully a silly question but you did disconnet the sway bar right? I ask because the rears really are as simple as sitting (190lbs 18-24in out from the hub) on the 2x4.
And I leave one nut on the top lightly threaded it helps to break the bottom away as you sit on the 2x4 instead of the whole strut just moving down and then essential becoming longer when the studs don't go back through the mounting holes at the top. And because its only one you can then tilt the strut to the side and realase the 2x4 leaving the strut hanging. Having the threads on the top still protruding gives you that extra distance to clear the bottom easier.
And I leave one nut on the top lightly threaded it helps to break the bottom away as you sit on the 2x4 instead of the whole strut just moving down and then essential becoming longer when the studs don't go back through the mounting holes at the top. And because its only one you can then tilt the strut to the side and realase the 2x4 leaving the strut hanging. Having the threads on the top still protruding gives you that extra distance to clear the bottom easier.
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shawn110975
Suspended
wow I am impressed how well your documenting this, very nice job.
your NSX is going to be the best looking NSX at NSXPO this year
next to mine LOL
your NSX is going to be the best looking NSX at NSXPO this year
next to mine LOL
- Joined
- 30 October 2011
- Messages
- 599
The only way to remove the bottom of the strut is to take out the dacronized end link bolt...
Yes, I removed the sway bar at the frame mounts, both sides. I think my problem is that I thought the shock needed to pop out toward the CV boot. Shawn and others are saying instead to pull the shock TOWARDS me as I push down, i.e., towards the brake rotor. I'll try to get the top mount back in the bolt holes and thread one nut on. I'll give it another shot with Dawk next weekend.
Thanks man. It is going slow but sure. Next up is to clean my undercarriage and re-wire the alarm and security system. NOT looking forward to it.
Looks like a fun project. I'm looking forward to updates.
I'm following this so I know what to do with your old tan leathers when it comes time to pull mine and put yours on. :biggrin:
No problem. They fit slightly differently than OEM in terms of how they go together. PM me any questions and I'll try to help.
Here is the latest from last weekend:
I worked on cleaning up the rear suspension and conditioning the CV boots. I just let the stuff soak in overnight.
Also, my wheels came back from the powdercoater! They look amazing and are exactly what I was hoping for. Some pics of the finish:
The rear coilovers are test fitted (finger tight). But- dumb question- should I fit the lower bolt first and then bolt the upper mount?
Technical question: below is how I ran the O2 sensor wire for the rear cylinder head. Is this correct, or does the wire run over the cover, not under it?
Final little show off of my cleaning efforts. The entire undercarriage was black from 20 years of grime.
I worked on cleaning up the rear suspension and conditioning the CV boots. I just let the stuff soak in overnight.
Also, my wheels came back from the powdercoater!
They look amazing and are exactly what I was hoping for. Some pics of the finish:
The rear coilovers are test fitted (finger tight). But- dumb question- should I fit the lower bolt first and then bolt the upper mount?
Technical question: below is how I ran the O2 sensor wire for the rear cylinder head. Is this correct, or does the wire run over the cover, not under it?
Final little show off of my cleaning efforts. The entire undercarriage was black from 20 years of grime.
It’s usually more difficult to bolt up the bottom, so I usually bolt that one up first and then the top.
Thanks! Should I coat the lower shock bolt with any kind of grease or anti-seize?
Yes....
Well done! It is looking good. :smile:
Thanks Mitch. I also finished a complete seat last weekend and got the suspension fully mounted. This weekend I hope to get the tires mounted back on my new wheels and the exhaust refurbished and polished. I am putting off the "big" job of re-locating the alarm and getting it to play nice with my factory alarm. Lots of cutting and crimping and soldering and reading wire diagrams and testing. Ugh.
man the new seats look great .... great build so far:smile:
FRUSTRATION!!!
My suspension removal did not go well. The write ups made it seem so easy- just sit on the 2x4 and it will pop right out! Yeah, right! Here is how far I got before throwing in the towel and calling for reinforcements.
How did you eventually get the shocks/suspension off?
Prime member Dawk came over and helped lol. It turns out I was prying in the wrong spot. We got more leverage using the right spot and were able to bend down the control arm enough to get them out.
Latest update. Well, I have my driver seat complete in the new Ivory color. What do you think?
Only one more seat to go:
But, that can wait for another day. Right now, I had to get the wheels back on the car. Here they are, without center caps at the moment:
Also, they all have new rubber.
In re-wiring my alarm and ignition system, I had to pull the headliner to get at the alarm antenna in order to re-route. I found several broken clips, which explained why my headliner bounced around.
Here is what is facing me for tomorrow. :frown:
Also, thanks to Prime member whitebois, I have an original 91 exhaust complete with Battlestar Galactica tips! :biggrin: I hit it with the pressure washer and started to work on the heat shields. Amazing what a scotch brite pad and some Simple Green HD can do, huh?
Here, you can see the difference from the original condition:
Only one more seat to go:
But, that can wait for another day. Right now, I had to get the wheels back on the car. Here they are, without center caps at the moment:
Also, they all have new rubber.
In re-wiring my alarm and ignition system, I had to pull the headliner to get at the alarm antenna in order to re-route. I found several broken clips, which explained why my headliner bounced around.
Here is what is facing me for tomorrow. :frown:
Also, thanks to Prime member whitebois, I have an original 91 exhaust complete with Battlestar Galactica tips! :biggrin: I hit it with the pressure washer and started to work on the heat shields. Amazing what a scotch brite pad and some Simple Green HD can do, huh?
Here, you can see the difference from the original condition:
Great thread and nice work being done.
I contacted Leatherseats.com to inquire about some seat covers for my car...in bright red leather & they sent out some leather samples in various shades of red and qualities of leather.
Pressing question:
How is the leather your got from them? The samples I got all have a "texture" to them...almost like a football! NOT smooth like the original factory seat leather (non-perforated)...which is what I want. When I called them, they said that's all they can get (huh?).
Are the seat covers your got silk-smooth or "rough-ish" texture leather?
.
They have a rough-ish texture but I don't mind. It doesn't really show in such a light color. The leather is soft and supple and the kits are very high quality. I was impressed with how sturdy the backing material is and how good the fit was. The nappa leather used in the original seats is very expensive and I think you're going to have a hard time finding it in a pre-made kit. That's the sort of thing for which you need to go to an upholstery shop for a custom job.
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