How to remove the hood release trim? Fuel lid release trim?

I hope there's not a good thread on this already - my search of prime, the web in general, and my service manual turned up empty.

I'm trying to remove the trim surrounding my hood release so I can repair or replace it - it's cracked & missing some plastic.

I found this page in my service manual, but it seems to imply that the trim is already removed. I've removed the 2 bolts on the side and the screw under the fuel lid release trim, but I can't get the hood release trim off.
https://beta.nsxshop.com/nsxb20063a-pdf/

Can anyone tell me how to remove this trim piece?

Also, how to remove the trim that surrounds the fuel lid release? On page 20-68, it seems to suggest I need to remove the "opener knob", which is the plastic tab that you pull to open the fuel tank, but I can't figure out how to get that off.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Alright, I'll answer my own thread - I just needed to pull (a lot) harder. It seemed like the sort of part that would have a tab or similar to push to release.

See the picture on page 20-38, Headliner/Interior Trim. https://beta.nsxshop.com/nsxb20038a-pdf/

To remove the Trim surrounding the Hood Release lever ("side sill trim"):

1. The side sill trim runs from the side sill pad (fuel lid release trim) to the hood release lever trim and is riveted to the hood release lever trim so they have to come out as one piece.
2. First, remove the side sill pad (trim around the Fuel release lever). (see steps below)
3. Under the side sill pad, remove the back screw holding the side sill trim.
4. Remove the under-dash fuse box lid.
5. That will expose two bolts on the right securing the fuel lid release trim/side sill trim. Remove them.
6. Look from the right side, just behind/beside the where the 2 screws were, and you will see a plastic screw insert. Use a slot screwdriver to wedge the trim backwards and release the plastic screw insert out.
7. When the plastic insert it out, lift the hood release lever and the trim will be free.

To remove the side sill pad (Fuel Release Lever Trim):

1. Pull the plastic tab (labelled "opener knob" in the service manual) forward to remove it from the fuel tab release lever . There is no screw or tab to release, you just have to pull it hard.
2. Lift the trim ("side sill pad") straight up. Don't lift from the back and break the pleather wrapped section away from the front plastic part.
3. Epoxy any broken plastic on the plastic portions and staple back any loose pleather. If it's not broken yet, epoxy the 2 pieces together as the tabs at the front of the back piece and the slots around the rivets are very weak and have probably weakened more with time.

I have a 96 and all my interior bits are in ok shape..why are yours jazzy?

docjohn said:

I have a 96 and all my interior bits are in ok shape..why are yours jazzy?

Click to expand...

Good question. Congrats on taking care of yours so well.

There may be a possibility that the previous owners lacked my OCD that makes me remove an old aftermarket alarm system for fear it will malfunction and strand me. My guesses:

1. 128k. Stuff happens. Car left in the sun without a sun shade? Plastic is 26 years old. I've seen what UV does to Honda plastic with my motorcycles. I'm surprised the leather is still in such great shape.
2. Trim around the hood release may have been kicked by accident? Hard to imagine anything else. Interestingly, I've seen 2 other NSX's recently with the same crack in the trim, on the right side at the bottom, that opens up 0.5 mm or so, so the carpet is visible. It worked fine but, OCD. Here's another: https://www.autotrader.ca/a/acura/n...ShowCpo&ncse=no&orup=2_7_7&pc=N6G 4W5&sprx=-1
3. Side sill pad probably broken by whoever installed the car alarm. If you don't know to remove the opener knob before the pad, and you lift at the back instead of evenly, that will do it. Some of the plastic was missing around the rivets so it's been like that a while. No one would know except that I had to remove it to change the side sill trim.
4. Alarm installer decides to drill a hole through the clock to mount a sizable LED? Hmmm.

Net is probably that aftermarket car alarms are more often trouble than they're worth? I've heard a lot of stories of people stranded when they start to malfunction.

Makes sense...most times my dash came apart it was Larry B ..who knew what was what...there def is a difference in these cars that have been garaged their whole lives vs more outside time.UV is deadly over time.