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I haven’t seen enough front compliance pivots to say what “normal” looks like, but I don’t remember mine looking like that.Does your shop know which two nuts to free up on each side? It’s the ones the green arrows point to in the picture in post #14 here: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/24602-Caster-Adjustment-Seized. Note: that picture is of the caster adjuster in the right front wheel well and the front of the car is towards the right. Once those two nuts are loosened, you can stick a 5mm (I think that was the size) Allen key into the adjuster / washer dial under one of those two nuts (the thing that looks like a big off-center washer with dashes along the edge and a little hole in it), rotate the adjuster using the Allen key, moving the whole compliance pivot in the process, thereby adjusting the caster.You don’t need to loosen the big bolt in the center of the rubber bushing.The gap on the passenger side looks to me like the two adjusting bolts weren’t tightened properly or maybe a little rock got wedged in there while it was loose at some point. A gap opened up in my compliance pivots when I loosened the two nuts on each side and went away again when I torqued them back to spec. It could have been at the same place your arrow points to.If the shop did loosen the correct nuts, couldn't rotate the adjuster washer, and the gap stayed even after torquing the nuts back to spec, maybe the compliance pivot is frozen in that position due to corrosion.Hope that helps!
I haven’t seen enough front compliance pivots to say what “normal” looks like, but I don’t remember mine looking like that.
Does your shop know which two nuts to free up on each side? It’s the ones the green arrows point to in the picture in post #14 here: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/24602-Caster-Adjustment-Seized. Note: that picture is of the caster adjuster in the right front wheel well and the front of the car is towards the right. Once those two nuts are loosened, you can stick a 5mm (I think that was the size) Allen key into the adjuster / washer dial under one of those two nuts (the thing that looks like a big off-center washer with dashes along the edge and a little hole in it), rotate the adjuster using the Allen key, moving the whole compliance pivot in the process, thereby adjusting the caster.
You don’t need to loosen the big bolt in the center of the rubber bushing.
The gap on the passenger side looks to me like the two adjusting bolts weren’t tightened properly or maybe a little rock got wedged in there while it was loose at some point. A gap opened up in my compliance pivots when I loosened the two nuts on each side and went away again when I torqued them back to spec. It could have been at the same place your arrow points to.
If the shop did loosen the correct nuts, couldn't rotate the adjuster washer, and the gap stayed even after torquing the nuts back to spec, maybe the compliance pivot is frozen in that position due to corrosion.
Hope that helps!
