won't start but you can jump the starter. I've checked the clutch safety switch by jumping. how about starter cut relay? 1992 nsx

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btoenges

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Car won't start by key but by jumping starter it will. Already looked at the clutch safety switch by jumping the wiring but that didn't get the car started. I ordered a new ignition switch but haven't got that yet. How about the starter cut relay behind the glove compartment? I think you can jump that also but don't know how. Could the starter cut relay be a cause of no start by turning key?

Thanks,
Buck
 
Yes, failure of the cut relay will cause a no start; but, if you haven't already checked access to the starter cut relay is really inconvenient - probably by design. Testing the relay is easy. Getting at the relay to test it or install a jumper by-pass - not so easy.

In the pecking order of things that fail, based upon the limited statistics that you can derive by spending too much time reading NSX Prime (my substitute for a newspaper when drinking coffee) I would put a much higher probability on failure of the ignition switch than the cut relay. Access to remove the ignition switch is easy compared to the cut relay so I would remove the ignition switch and test it to confirm that it has not failed before I engaged in the hand bloodying exercise of getting at the cut relay.

If the ignition switch has failed you can frequently restore it to operation by disassembling it and cleaning the contacts. This would get you by until the new switch arrives at which point it can be installed and keep the old one as a back up.
 
1992 nsx I am supposed to jump between pin 1 and pin 3 to nulify the starter cut off relay. I have looked on the relay and the connector and haven't found any numbers signifying pin numbers. How do you know which pin is 1 and which pin is 3? do you read the pins as you would a book? from to left to bottom right?

signed,
Confused under the glove box
 

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This is a screen grab from the 1991 SM.
Starter cut relay.jpg

You want to jumper the terminals in the relay socket that correspond to terminals A and B on the relay.

The relay appearance changed in later model years; but, the A and B terminal positions remained the same and should be the terminals circled below.

Starter cut relay 2.jpg

Have you tested the relay to confirm that it is actually dead? If it is confirmed dead I would just put a new relay in rather than mess around with a jumper
 
I am having a problem removing ignition switch. I have read you have to unscrew 2 screws in order to remove the switch. In the picture, are these the 2 screws? If so what type of screw driver do you use to reach #2? There isn't much room to get to screw #2.
Thanks,
Buck
 

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Not those two screws! The switch mounting screws are on the back of the switch assembly - two black tabs in the photo below.

ignition switch 2.jpg

As noted, get the service manual and read page 23-72. Once you get the lower dashboard panel off it is fairly straight forward. Because of space limits you need a very stubby screwdriver to unscrew the two screws. I found using a mini ratchet with Phillips screwdriver head worked just fine.
 
You now have three threads started that are all related to the same no start problem. I suggest you use the original thread for all future posts rather than clutter up the forum with a new thread every time you have a new question.
 
Old Guy said:
You now have three threads started that are all related to the same no start problem. I suggest you use the original thread for all future posts rather than clutter up the forum with a new thread every time you have a new question.
Click to expand...
I merged them all.
 
I am replacing the ignition switch. Can the ignition switch be connected just one way to the steering column? The ignition switch should be placed in the zero position just like the key switch when you install?
This is what I have done so far:
1) Replaced the starter cut off relay.
2) jumped the clutch interlock switch
3) replacing the ignition switch..... Going back to re-install since I placed the key in position (1) when I screwed in the ignition switch to the steering column.

Also here is a picture of several connectors found behind the glove box. There is a green one,blue one, grey one, and an orange one. I think they belong to the audio system but am not sure. I had the radio replaced years ago and I think these should have no connection anymore.

Thanks,
Buck
 

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Green 15P = OEM keyless for 1991/1992 model years. The receiver should bolted to the underside of the glove box knee bolster.

Pink 6P = ALB diagnosis + receiver

Blue 2P = ECU diagnosis + receiver

Grey 2P = might be the glove box lamp or trunk interlock. Did you remove the glove box insert?

**
Ignition switch, match up the female side of the rotating electric switch with however you have the physical key tumbler. I believe the installation of the switch body is stupid proof, but you can improperly install clocking/rotation of the round switch inside the body.
 
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Car will start and run when you jump it from the back fuse box to the starter but the car won't crank over when you turn the key. So I replaced the starter cut relay, jumped the clutch interlock switch with a paper clip, and replaced the ignition switch. When I turn the key 1 time to the right nothing works. turn to 2 position radio comes on. Also there is a fan sound in the center console. Not loud but you can hear it. when you turn to the 3rd position no crank but there is 1 click. No gauge idiot lights come on dash (should idiot lights come on at 1 key turn?), no tach movement on the dash.

Now my windows quit working. I did check the relay in the front trunk and switched it with the light relay and no difference.

My turn signals don't work but the hazard lights work.
Thanks everybody for there help.
 
Conduct battery test at local chain auto parts place. Remove the battery and take it in for testing.

Clean battery terminals and big wire connections at the starter and body. Important!

You may have indexed the electrical ignition switch improperly. You can unscrew from the mechanical lock and use a screwdriver to turn the contact switch.

Aspirator Fan in console probably needs cleaning and adjustment. Unimportant until you get car running properly.

Do you have a voltmeter?

Stop with the parts cannon until you've done some proper testing. You can be introducing additional issues and that makes it extremely difficult to diagnose.
 
Conduct battery test at local chain auto parts place. Remove the battery and take it in for testing. Did it and it is fine. No bad cells.

Clean battery terminals and big wire connections at the starter and body. Important! Did this. Cleaned the neg cable at battery and at the body connection. What big wire connection at the starter and body? Negative cable?

I am looking for addition neg grounding cables for the car right now. Pic1 shows a ground cable that I might want to replace.

The second pic shows the small wire that connects to the solenoid for the starter. There is no power at the wire when I turn the key but if I jump it the engine will crank over. I assume the starter cut relay, clutch interlock switch, and the ignition switch work together to get power to the little wire to the solenoid correct? Is there anything else that affects the wire to have power?

Do I need to do an ignition switch test since I got a new one?
I did see that the clutch interlock switch is missing the little blue plug on the clutch pedal. I jumped the connector to that switch by placing a paper clip in the 2 spad connector.
Thanks,
Buck
 

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researching more about my problem. I haven't had to check yet but I have read that the security system might have something to do with my problem as it interacts with the starter cut relay. Here ia a cut and past on the matter:

Look for the fuse that powers up the security system. Check the following: Check Dash Fuse Box- Fuse #5 10A, then check the Main Relay Box - Fuse #29 50A. Check Fuse #18 20A in the Main Fuse Box in the engine compartment. This was the one that got me:), it is shown on page 23-308 of the online service manual just next to fuse #9.


In regard to the Starter Cut Relay, also on page 23-308 of the online service manual it shows the relay terminals A-D A and C should be +12 when the ignition switch is in the "Start" position. The key here is terminal D MUST be closed to ground through the security system. Does this mean that I should have a ground signal on term D using a test light when the ignition is in the start position?

Terminal B feeds the starter system. Should I get a 12v positive signal from my test light when key is in start position? Now we are getting some place !!! Check the positive terminal of your battery. It should have two wires comming off of it. One goes to the relay box and feeds #29 and others and has power so that connection is good. The other wire goes from the battery to the main fuse box and #9 and is not working, my guess is that you will find that wire burned off of the positive battery terminal clamp.

Thanks,
Buck
 
So, here is what I did today. Took test light and went through the fuse panels in the front trunk, under dash, and engine fuse panel. Found out the ignition fuse (50A) in the front relay/fuse box had blown. This took power off line to the fuses under the dash and the ignition "B" fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. I took out the blown fuse and then jumped the fuse to see if there was a big spark that might suggest a short in the system. There was no big spark. So I jumped it temporary with alligator clips and she started right up. I'll have a new fuse tomorrow and will button things up. Learned a valuable leason by check with simple tools before assuming that it must be a relay or switch issue. Thanks,
Buck
 
congrats.

the lack of power windows usually indicates not enough battery current (which was 0 in this case).

How the 50A fuse blew should be a question.

FYI: always remove the Negative side of a battery first. If your wrench/spanner is accidentally shorted to the body: no harm. Once the Negative lead is disconnected, then accidentally shorting the Positive will then also cause no harm.
 

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