Window Regulator

[skillz4587]

My driver side Window has been intermittently not been able to roll down. It will not roll down and then a few hours later it will work again. Now it has been a few days and it has not rolled down so I am assuming the problem is with the Window Regulator. Does this sound like symptoms of the Window Regulator or could it be something else? Also, based off of these symptoms should I get the Window Regulator removed and sent off to http://www.regulatorusa.com for repair or will this be a temporary fix and the same thing will happen again later on if I use this method. If it is only a temporary fix then I will probably just get the Window Regulator replaced.

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

[Jett]

It doesn't sound like the regulator to me. It sounds like the problem is probably in the driver's side power window switch (not the "on/main" switch).

 

[skillz4587]

Thanks. If it is the Switch, do you know how much it is for the part?

 

[sivernsx]

I sent my passenger window to the ( Regulator USA ) about a month ago
reinstalled it back and didnt make that much of a difference.
I emailed the guy and questioned him about it and no response.
It is a temporary fix.. hence temporary..
I sent my back due to the fact that it started rolling up very slowly.
hesitates on top.
Now it rolls up all the way, but still very slow.
do anyone have any Ideas?
the dealer here wants like 55o for a new window regulator.

Nook

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Your "slowness" is typically due to old grease in the tracks, as well as mis-alignment of the tracks. Each track rides on three adjustable bolts, in a tri-point arrangement. The service manual shows this, but really just says "it is an adjustment". This adjustment can be a real PITA, and I have taken up to three hours per door, to get a window/tracks cleaned, reinstalled, and adjusted properly.

I am not sure your regulator was really ever bad if it was slow. Also when the window movement is slow, it really means the window is binding, which will overheat the motor, and give you intermittent operation. The motor will just shut down, and you come back later, and it starts working again.

It has a thermal shut down, that gets aggrevated by the binding window.

There is no way for me to easily explain how to adjust it, but you need to count turns on the adjustment bolts to make sure you know where you started, just in case you adjust it and it gets worse. You always want to know your starting point.

In regard to the regulator folks, remember, they make them work on the bench and they are done, they are not responsible for adjustment and smooth operation once they are back in the door.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[NSXFRIEND]

Here you go window adjustment procedure.

 

[NSXFRIEND]

Last one..

 

[sivernsx]

Thanks for the info..
I was afraid of that.
It did take me over an hour to adjust it
when i was installing it.
I never did regrease it the tracks. I did try ti
adjust the track the best i could.
I painted the adjusted points prior sending my
regulater off hoping it would be the right spot.
I guess age can just cause it to warpe alittle.

thanks again.

 

[skillz4587]

It doesn't sound like the regulator to me. It sounds like the problem is probably in the driver's side power window switch (not the "on/main" switch).

Thanks you were right with the switch diagnoses. I am glad you made the suggestion because they were going to order the regulator and I would think they would have already tested before determining that it was the regulator. The switch was ordered and should be here on Wednesday. 350 for the parts and labor, does that sound right? Also, is the switch something that can be fixed or does it need to be replaced? The reason I am asking is because the Window has been working ever since he put all the parts back but I figured it will probably go out again so I let him order it.

 

[Jett]

I have read that you can clean the contacts on the old switch and revive it. I have never personally examined the construction of the switch so I can't personally vouch for this. If you can disassemble the switch and get to the contacts to clean them, I would certainly try it. I would think that they would need only a very light scuffing with fine sandpaper and then they would be good to go. Then if you were to have trouble later, you know where the problem is, and you could then order the switch and replace it.

Some might argue that you should be supportive of your dealer/mechanic and just let them replace it, but they were going to cause you to spend hundreds of dollars on a regulator you don't need. I don't think they were doing this deliberately, but they weren't demonstrating any ability at troubleshooting either. (In fairness to them, the NSX windows are normally slow enough that it makes you think the regulators are failing.) Still, you don't owe them anything other than the cost of labor already expended.

Your time or your money? If you don't want to deal with it personally, you might go ahead with the switch replacement, $350 for parts and labor sounds exactly right.

Me personally? If the window is working now, I would leave it alone until it stopped working again. It might work for a week, or it might work for five years. If it stopped working again, then I would remove the door panel and try cleaning the switch contacts. Only after those two options had failed would I replace the switch.

 

[nh_nsx]

Hi,
Removing the door panel isn't that hard if you take your time and the switch is right there.
I've sprayed contact cleaner in there and mine seems to be working fine now. I haven't completely disassembled the switch though. You might even be able to spray contact cleaner down from the top without taking the door panel off but I didn;t try that either.
I've also been told that the drivers side window switch is the same one as in the Legend so that might save you some money if that is true.

Good luck!
-Randy

 

[Jett]

Removing the door panel isn't that hard if you take your time and the switch is right there.

I agree, and it helps tremendously to know how to approach it BEFORE you start taking it off. Don't try to "just figure it out". It helps to start with the small triangular panel directly behind the door handle. If you need instructions on door panel removal, PM me and I will try to describe how to do it. Again, it is pretty easy, especially if you know what to do before you start.

I've sprayed contact cleaner in there and mine seems to be working fine now. I haven't completely disassembled the switch though. You might even be able to spray contact cleaner down from the top without taking the door panel off but I didn;t try that either. I've also been told that the drivers side window switch is the same one as in the Legend so that might save you some money if that is true.

These seem like solid tips.

 

[nh_nsx]

Directions to remove the door panel stolen from other posts...

Lower window fully. Remove the inner trim plate. *shark gill leather thinghy. Use a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver covered in a sturdy cloth!

http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642994.jpg

http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642993.jpg


Step 2: Remove the inside door handle. *page 20-6 manual below. There are 8 screws total, (4 black/4 gold.) Be sure and not get them mixed up when reinstalling the inner door handle. You will ruin the plastic attaching threads if you do! Take a piece of masking tape and mark which side they go on for reassembly. *see pix.


Remove the door lock cable. *Note which of the three settings it is in the clip for reinstal. http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642971.jpg


Disconnect the plug for the power door lock.

http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642961.jpg

Step 3:

Remove the front & rear sash covers. *Use body tool. Be careful of the two stubborn clips holding them in place.




http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642991.jpg

http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642981.jpg Step 4:

Remove the screws holding the door panel on the door. There are 7 screws total. They are hidden under the weatherstriping, (no pix.) The weatherstrip may come loose from the door. Use the body tool to pry the plastic fastner from the door. Re-attach during reassembly. http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642992.jpg


Now comes the hard part. Removing the door panel. The panel is held in place at the top where it meets the sill. Place one hand under the panel,

http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642993.jpg

and the other hand at end of jamb near the lock. Now simultaneously push up to relieve the door from the top sill and pull out/slightly backwards with the other hand. You may have to bump it from below to losen from the sill. *Beware there are many connectors still attached to the panel.

http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/642994.jpg

Now while balancing the panel on your thigh disconnect the following:

1-Trunk lid opener, (driver door only.) 2-Power window 3-Courtesy light 4-Security alarm

Once the panel is free, Do not rest it right side up. You will damage the fasting tabs. Place on towel upside down or flat.

 

[xory72]

Hey guys ...

When I bought my car back in November 07 I had some window issues. From the driver side the pass window would roll down but was intermitent in rolling back up. It would work sometimes and other times it would not then completly quite. The driver switch / window worked for the most part then shortly after it decided to stop working as well.

I took the door panel off and then removed the switche assembly. I tested the switch as the manual indicated with an ohm meter. Sure enough ... switches would work going down but not up. The ohm meter proved that there was no power going through the switch in the up position.

I took the switch completely apart right down so that the toggle button that you put your finger on was out of the switch along with the contact bridges, spring etc. so that I could see the contact tabs. There are 4 of them per switch.

What did I find ... all tabs were dirty, but that was not in the problem. The tabs on the UP side had black residue that indicated over heating or electrial heating. This heat separated the contact points so it was not making contact any longer therefor no power to raise the window up.

The fix ... cleaned the tabs then soldered the contact tabs back to the base. Reassembled the switch, tested with ohm meter ... there was power! Reinstalled in car and tested ... eveything works fine. Saved about $250.00 for the parts (new switch assembly). In the end I learned a lot more then I would have taking to the dealer. I always feel the dealer is the last resort.

All in all this took about 2 hours to do. Most of the time was taking apart the switch and remembering how it went together then figuring out why the tabs were not making contact to the base.

Hope this helps. Good luck ...

 

[skillz4587]

Thanks for all of the information. I am going to let the guy go ahead and change the switch since the part was already ordered but I am going to save the information and watch what he is doing so I will be able to possibly do it myself if the same problems ever occurs on the passenger side.

 

[xory72]

Thanks for all of the information. I am going to let the guy go ahead and change the switch since the part was already ordered but I am going to save the information and watch what he is doing so I will be able to possibly do it myself if the same problems ever occurs on the passenger side.

Make sure you tell the dealer that you want your old part back. Make sure they do not toss it out. Then whenever you have some spare time you can take it apart and see what you can find. Just a thought ....

 

[skillz4587]

Make sure you tell the dealer that you want your old part back. Make sure they do not toss it out. Then whenever you have some spare time you can take it apart and see what you can find. Just a thought ....

OK, thanks. I will make sure to do that.