Why is the crush washer matalic?

[aridon99]

Wouldn't a hard rubber washer or plastic one make more sense in giving you a tight seal against liquids use after use? (rubber springs back, but metal doesn't). I do some plumbing around the house and all the washers sealing liquids are rubber.

My drain plug is leaking now because the last jack*ss who tightened it torqued the heck out of it. I just did an oil change and can't get the slow-slow leak to stop. I'm going to have to pop the thing open and waste a lot of good oil to replace the crush washer

Anyone use a different material washer for their drain plug? And yup, lesson learned on a new washer with each oil change.

 

[W]

The crush washer should be replaced with oil change.

 

[OLDMNSX]

If you drain the oil when the engine is cold into a clean container, replace the crush washer and then just pour the oil back in.....what do you think of that?

 

[Daedalus]

I do some plumbing around the house and all the washers sealing liquids are rubber.

Can you think of a single one where there is a direct shearing action across both faces of the washer, or are they all compression seals? I have seen rubber sealing washers, but only when backed by metal to retain the rubber and keep it from splitting and separating, and/or to set a maximum compression depth on the rubber. Also, rubber and plastic will harden over time, so you can lose enough pre-load in the bolt that the seal will start to leak.

 

[gsrboy]

If you drain the oil when the engine is cold into a clean container, replace the crush washer and then just pour the oil back in.....what do you think of that?

I wouldnt do that... Its not worth getting some contaminant in your engine. New oil is much cheaper than a new motor... IMO

 

[Tom239]

If you drain the oil when the engine is cold into a clean container, replace the crush washer and then just pour the oil back in.....what do you think of that?

Why bother with that, when if you're fast with putting your finger or what-have-you in the drain hole you can swap out the crush washer and lose less than a quart.

The bottom of the pan is where crud accumulates. Oil pumped from the pan is filtered before being sent to the engine. Me personally, I wouldn't pour drained oil, crud and all, unfiltered, into the filler hole at the top of the engine.

 

[aridon99]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I think this is what I'm gonna do.

1) Get a strip of duct tape ready.
2) Clean pan area around drain plug (degrease with simple green)
3) Stick half of duct tape on the pan
4) Remove drain plug, put tape across drain hole
5) Change out crush washer with a fresh one
6) Remove tape, stick plug back in
7) Replenish with new oil, same amount as drained out

I'm hoping to do this fast enough so less than a quart escapes :tongue:

 

[slamstrom]

Re: Why is the crush washer metallic?

An aluminum crush washer will expand when it gets hot, and will give you a better seal when hot. Did you use a torque wrench to torque your drain bolt?

 

[gsrboy]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I think this is what I'm gonna do.

1) Get a strip of duct tape ready.
2) Clean pan area around drain plug (degrease with simple green)
3) Stick half of duct tape on the pan
4) Remove drain plug, put tape across drain hole
5) Change out crush washer with a fresh one
6) Remove tape, stick plug back in
7) Replenish with new oil, same amount as drained out

I'm hoping to do this fast enough so less than a quart escapes :tongue:

I dont think you will do it fast enough... Its much harder to do than say. Once you start putting the duck tape toward the other side it will get oil on it because the pressure is shooting oil out. It wont stick... but if your lightning fast! thats another story.. haha

 

[slamstrom]

Re: Why is the crush washer metallic?

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I think this is what I'm gonna do.

1) Get a strip of duct tape ready.
2) Clean pan area around drain plug (degrease with simple green)
3) Stick half of duct tape on the pan
4) Remove drain plug, put tape across drain hole
5) Change out crush washer with a fresh one
6) Remove tape, stick plug back in
7) Replenish with new oil, same amount as drained out

I'm hoping to do this fast enough so less than a quart escapes :tongue:

Somehow, I'm picturing a big mess on the floor. Get the cat litter ready. If you want to save most of the oil, you can drain the oil into an aluminum tyrkey baking tray. That way you can pour the oil back into the engine later. Good luck.

 

[angus]

DO NOT use a plastic/teflon washer ,or rubber. The aluminum one is the proper part. I see cars come in all the time with plastic washers installed by lube shops and they almost always leak or weep. I see nothing wrong with pulling the drain plug , putting a finger over the hole , then changing the washer - I have done this on more than one car.

 

[ralph cerbone]

DO NOT use a plastic/teflon washer ,or rubber. The aluminum one is the proper part. I see cars come in all the time with plastic washers installed by lube shops and they almost always leak or weep. I see nothing wrong with pulling the drain plug , putting a finger over the hole , then changing the washer - I have done this on more than one car.

correct!!!! want to get fancy ,have a new plug &washer ,then swap out

 

[goldNSX]

Why bother with that, when if you're fast with putting your finger or what-have-you in the drain hole you can swap out the crush washer and lose less than a quart.

I once did it this way with the engine cold. It just works fine.

 

[aridon99]

Thanks folks. I'll make sure to do this with the engine totally cold as to keep the flow rate down slightly. How much does a new drain plug cost anyway? I'm going to tackle this tonight. And yes, lesson learned on the new washer with each oil change

I called my local Acura dealer yesterday and they wanted $55 for a new air filter. I'm wondering if they're on the expensive side or this is just normal.

 

[nsxnut]

I have used crush washers.

I now use a metal washer with a rubber center. These are sold at winchester Auto. They are made by Dorman and designed specifically for this purpose.
You live in the bay area. Winchester auto in Campbell sells these.

I used "the Google" and found this picture.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-097-021

They cost 50 cents to a buck each. Cheep.

Use you Thumb. Duck tape will not work.

Later,
Don

 

[PATCHEZ]

Not sure where ur at.But if you bring the car to my work in Newark I'll swap out ur plug for you for free. We just put the vacum on the fill and that puts enough vacum to were the oil stays in the pan when we pull out the drain plug. I have a whole box of Honda plugs and gaskets.

 

[slamstrom]

Thanks folks. I'll make sure to do this with the engine totally cold as to keep the flow rate down slightly. How much does a new drain plug cost anyway? I'm going to tackle this tonight. And yes, lesson learned on the new washer with each oil change

I called my local Acura dealer yesterday and they wanted $55 for a new air filter. I'm wondering if they're on the expensive side or this is just normal.

Go to a Honda dealer and buy 90009-PH1-000 - BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (14MM). Should be less than $2.00 if you don't want to wait for a delivery from an online purchase.

I buy my air filter from Acura of Peoria and it's only $35.22 (17220-PR7-A00) + shipping and I get is in 2 to 3 days (due to location). Love their service.
http://oemacuraparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214055
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item438e8e8318

 

[aridon99]

Not sure where ur at.But if you bring the car to my work in Newark I'll swap out ur plug for you for free. We just put the vacum on the fill and that puts enough vacum to were the oil stays in the pan when we pull out the drain plug. I have a whole box of Honda plugs and gaskets.

Patchez,

A very generous offer. Thanks! I'll PM you.

-John

 

[LJSB]

Turn the car upside down, change the washer, turn the car back over.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

I would drive the car to a cold storage facility and put it in a freezer room. Undo the bolt and the oil should be frozen or flow slow enough for you to slip the washer over the flowing oil as it starts to form a drip. Put the bolt back in and you should be fine.

 

[LJSB]

Please! Pretty please, have someone with a video camera rolling when you do your fix for this. :biggrin:

 

[aridon99]

All because I don't want to waste some perfectly good oil :wink:

 

[Chuck]

The crush washer also has another specific function. When torqued to the proper specs, it prevents the treads in the oil pan from being unduly stressed. That is why you do not want to re-use one.

 

[stevieray122854]

Not trying to be a jerk but you own an NSX and you're trying to save the cost of 5 quarts of oil? Unless you're using Amsoil, Royal Purple or some other expensive synthetic, just change the oil again and change the crush washer while you're at it. Am I missing something here?

 

[Vega$ NSX]

Just some food for thought, the last time this happened to me (not on my NSX), when I finally took my washer off, I found that a part of the threads had broken off (like a chipped tooth), it too was over torqued. A new crush washer wasn't going to save that leak. I put on a thick rubber grommet style washer, refilled my car with oil and promptly drove it to the shop to have the oil pan replaced.