When shifting into 3rd from 2nd, it sometimes grinds... ????

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24 July 2000
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I'm usually doing a bit of a quick shift, but one time or another it has grinded...nothing major but definitely noticable... this has happened more when I am taking off somewhat fast... maybe it's because I shift while the clutch is still on the way down right before the pedal is all the way down... but I would think that it should do this anyways because it only happens from 2nd to 3rd.... whats this about?? Should I be worried? What about the snap ring? The owner said this transmission is out of snap ring range... will be checking that ASAP. thanks for the info -Electro
 
You are probably either shifting before the clutch is fully disengaged or you have a worn synchro.
 
How much does it cost to replace this? Or how can I check to see if it is worn without having to open up the transmission?
 
The part is cheap but anytime you open the transmission it's probably around $700-$1000 just in labor depending on your dealer.

The way to test is to see if it grinds when another NSX transmission you know is good would not.

[This message has been edited by Lud (edited 04 August 2000).]
 
Are you matching the revs? (IOW using the accelerator to match the revs to your road speed before letting out the clutch)
 
That probably could use some tweaking now that u mention it... I'm still trying to figure out how to launch without it shuddering like the clutch is slipping...but i know (from what i read) that the shuddering is normal and is nothing to worry about................... RIGHT? -E
 
Electro-

I've had my NSX for a few weeks now and was experiencing the same problem that you were; it would only grind when going from 2nd to 3rd when speed shifting. I corrected the problem with this theory: I came from a 99 Civic SI 5 speed. The gears on it are not even close to how tight or close they are on the NSX. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd on the Civic I had to literally go up halfway and then over. So when I got the NSX, shifting from 2nd to 3rd I would tend to go up and over. It usually got stuck in the middle as I let the clutch up and it would grind, but I would still get it into 3rd. Last week I was experimenting with shifting and noticed that if I just went straight up, it would glide right into 3rd without the grinding. I think that's because the gears are so close, you're not going STRIAGHT up, but just about. Another thing that I noticed when shifting was to let the tight, short throw do the work and not my arm. When I grabbed the shifter just below the knob with my hand wrapped around and not on top, letting my forearm rest on the console, I would use my wrist action more. It was a lot easier to shift, and I stopped "forcing" the gears in and let the car do the work. When slamming on the gas and going through the gears aggressively, remember to be aggressive with the gas and clutch, but not the shifter. You want to shift fast, but you don't need to shift fast AND hard. That's when you'll run into problems. Go straight up and down with "finesse" and the gears will fall into their proper places. Once again, when going from 2nd to 3rd, try to hold the shifter on the pole and not the knob and shift with the wrist. It's kind of hard not to be aggressive with the shifter because of the adrenaline and all. Plus your being aggressive with everything else, i.e. gas, clutch, brake, steering. Just think of it like when you take your left hand and make continuous circles on your stomach and take your right hand and tap on the top of your head. If you can do both of these simultaneously, then you can do this. Hope this can help from my experience with the same problem.
 
From your description and further testing and the fact that it only happens 2-3 it most likely you have a worn synchro as Lud said.

By the way, in drag racing you must also be agressive with the shift, as well as the clutch to prevent missing shifts and breaking transmission gears. The transmission can take some brutal power shifts (shifting without lifting off the throttle) but at the expense of wear & tear on the synchro. However, it is better to wear the synchro then to destroy the gears. In other words spend the $1000 or so dollars to replace your synchros before you spend $7000 to replace the transmission.
 
So I would imagine that as time goes on, it would get worse unitl the gears were affected. While I have my car in the shop and the tranny dropped, what should I also do while it's out? Clutch? (it already has a fairly new one in it now - about 12k miles on it) I dont want to spend much more money than needed... Like i mentioned before, i already have a centerforce dual friction clutch that was supposed to go on my prelude...so maybe i can exchange it and pay the difference for a centerforce clutch for the NSX? Anyone know anything about centerforce and its quality?
 
Electro, I just had the short gears and a 4.23 R&P installed. Next to the headers and muffler, the best performance dollars I've spent yet.
I also replaced all the syncros as they were a little worn from grinding, probably like yours.

[This message has been edited by ChopsJazz (edited 04 August 2000).]
 
ChopsJazz, how much did all that run you after parts and labor? I have found that 2nd only grinds when going into 3rd when I rev the engine past a certain RPM...say like 6500 or more.. and when trying to do a quicker shift..not neccessarily a hard shift.. I'm sure i'll have to yank out the trans one day anyways since my ride is a 91... so i want to plan on doing it instead of *having* to do it u know? Thanks -E
 
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