When changing the oil pan gasket...

AFAIK, to do the oil pan you must also remove at least one bank of headers, possibly both banks - as well as the catalytic converters; I don't think anything else needs to be removed for the service. When I had my oil pan gasket replaced, I used the old seals, but the headers had been reinstalled with new gaskets around 6 months previously; if I was doing it with the original gaskets, I would replace them as well. HTH!
 
The exhaust gaskets to and from the cats are really crush rings which are not well suited to reuse. Certainly many people do, but I'd probably replace them despite their ridiculous price. If the car is old Also consider having new nuts in case they are rusty or corners get chewed up during removal. Fresh ones make it simpler next time.
 
Not sure where you're getting your car serviced or if you're doing it yourself, but, if it has a lot of miles, getting the o-ring gaskets out of the headers and the catalytic converters can be a real pain - I had to dent mine with a screwdriver, the wedge something *into* the gasket and use that as a pry tool to get it out - not the easiest job. Just an FYI.

For the catalytic converter bolts, I would highly recommend picking up some "PB Blaster"; hopefully you can find it locally, although I ordered mine online - the first time breaking the catalytic converter bolts with repeated WD40 sprayings, a breaker bar and two steel pipe extensions, I still couldn't get 4 broken - with the PB Blaster, I got them all the next try (still a pain, though). Air tools might negate this problem.
 
just wanted to add my .02


ive personally removed the oil pan and done the gasket. the headers don't need to come off,

also PB Blaster is the way to go.. its some of the best stuff ever made, really helps alot.

Air tools make the job soooo much easier, but it can be done with some PB, breaker bar, and paitence... be careful in removing the bolts sometimes they can rust heavily, and bind.

When removing them by hand with a breaker bar, you increase the risk of snapping a bolt off. Air tools will lower this risk due to how the torque is applied. By hand its constant torque, air tools use repetitative torque and bump it in tiny incriments very quickly. The constant torque of the breaker bar, starts to stress the bolt, and continues to fatigue the bolt as you continue that stroke.

Also, when removing and reinstalling make sure to follow the manual, there is a certain order to removing and installing the bolts.


HTH

Mike
 
Thanks Guys,

I am going to do it myself...thankfully one of the member of NSXprime offered to walk me through it while I do it as well as use his facility for the lift (Thanks Jerry!).

On my way to acura to get the parts...better becareful i dont come home with another nsx. Mental note...leave check book at home.
 
Ahh, should have mentioned, I am running the Comptech headers on my car, that might make things a little different.

Good luck on the DIY!
 
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