Wheels don't fit after new front pads.

Joined
30 June 2003
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102
Location
Silicon Valley
I just installed new front brake pads over the weekend, and now my Volk AV3s rub (just barely) against the stock calipers. I see two acceptable options at this point; wheel spacers or shaving the pads by approx. 1mm each. However, I have my reservations about both.

Shaving the pads is really my backup plan as I would rather not have to waste any of the new pad material… my first choice is spacers:

The Wheel FAQ suggests that spacers are both available and safe for high performance cars like the NSX. While I've found a plethora of spacers, I've yet to find any that are hub centric for an NSX. Anybody have any ideas where I might find these (local to SF Bay Area is ideal). Also, has anyone had any negative experiences with spacers that contradict the FAQ?

Any advice is greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and bumming rides to work sucks.
 
Your caliper is fixed, so changing a pad should not change the amount of caliper extension that you have (thus altering the clearance between the wheel and caliper). Are you sure that is the problem? Usually if the caliper has too much extension you would not even be able to get the wheels on. My guess is that you are probably hearing the pads rub the rotor b/c they are too tight there. Check the inner spokes of your wheel, if it is rubbing the wheel should be ready to throw away by now.

a. did you fully compress the caliper after removing the old pads? If not your piston could be too far out.

b. does the pad have a removable stick on backing plate? Many pads (hawk, ebc, ferodo for example) may have a stick on backing plates that can be removed in a situation like this. If so rip that baby off and it will not be so snug.

c. probably not your problem, but did you make sure to bleed the system to avoid air bubbles/pressue fluctuations?

Just a few options..... good luck!
Aaron
 
AaronR said:
Your caliper is fixed, Aaron

Are the calipers fixed? I don't think so. I believe the factory calipers float on the NSX. That would explain why installing new brake pads move the caliper closer to the wheel. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.
 
The calipers do float, with the single piston design they have to move or only the inside pad would wear. The only time you can have a fixed caliper is when you have pistons on both sides.

How much spacer do you think you need ? Can you put the old pads back in for now just so you can drive or were they to far gone or at least put one of the used pads on the outside which would move the caliper in away from your wheels. Have you pumped the brakes? The caliper will move in some, you more than likely pushed the piston back more than enough to get the new pads over the rotor easlly which would left some clearence that would go away after a application of the brakes.
 
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I should have noted that I have ~26k miles on the car w/ these wheels, so I do know that they will fit. At least I know they will with partially worn pads. :p

Originally posted by AaronR
Check the inner spokes of your wheel, if it is rubbing the wheel should be ready to throw away by now.
I only drove around the block on them, so just a fraction of damage was done to the interior of the wheel. I think it'll be ok, but I'll post a pic soon so others can assess the damage.

Originally posted by prov4re
Nicolas421 has a set of front spacers
I'm looking for 3-5mm spacers. While these are great, I think 15mm is a bit more than I probably need or want.

Originally posted by Briank
How much spacer do you think you need? Can you put the old pads back in for now just so you can drive or were they to far gone or at least put one of the used pads on the outside which would move the caliper in away from your wheels.
I thought of this too, but wasn't sure if it was a good idea (safe). I was at the wear indicator on the inside pad, but I still had a bit of pad left on the outside. Are there any adverse effects to using the old outside pad with a new inside pad?
 
I don't see a problem with installing the used pads on the outside. That would give you the clearance you need for your wheels till you get a real solution worked out. It seems that you don't need a full spacer but just a shim. I don't know if any one makes one but I would not be hard to fabricate a 2mm or 3mm sheet metal shim. Also check the calipers to see where they are hitting the wheel, it should be easy to see and grind a little of the casting away. It may take very little grinding which should be OK.
 
On further inspection, it really looks more like a surface scratch. I doubt the integrity of the wheel has been compromised.

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Briank said:
Also check the calipers to see where they are hitting the wheel, it should be easy to see and grind a little of the casting away. It may take very little grinding which should be OK.
I would, really, if it wasn't the NSX logo I was grinding away. That would be sacrilegious. :p
 
I would just use a 5mm Spacer I had the same problem with my rear Antera's just touching the Caliper I got a set and have had no problem since...No need for longer Stud's either I check the Lug Nut's often and they have never come loose on me good luck finding a set H&R are way behind on that size Dali has been out for some time now.



Steven 91 Blk/Ivory
 
I had a similar problem for awhile. I went to the hardware store and bought some washers. One washer on each stud was all I needed to get enough clearance. Not a great solution, but it got me running until my H&R spacers came in.
 
I had almost identical problem with the rear of my car with my previous wheels (curiously enough front was fine). There was a 3mm spacer installed which made the number of turns of the lug on the standard length stud barely adequate. Without it wheel would rub, although worse than yours & remember when brakes get hot it will be a lot worse.
I removed the spacer & installed a single 12mm washer (available at Home Depot!) on each stud prior to installing the wheel - this still allows the wheel to mount on the hub centric ring & only spaces about 1.5 - 2mm, which seems to be more than adequate in your case. Keep a few extras handy in the glove box in case you lose one when removing the wheel & be sure to tell anyone working on your car for maintenance they are there.
Simple, cheap, effective!
 
mikec said:
Are the calipers fixed? I don't think so. I believe the factory calipers float on the NSX. That would explain why installing new brake pads move the caliper closer to the wheel. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.


oops sorry about that :rolleyes:
Aaron
 
Rather than washers - which could be a bit flimsy for this application - you could consider getting spacers. Not the kind that include the studs, just the kind that are flat plates. But they are one piece, not individual washers, and they come into contact around the full circumference of the lug nut circle.

You can buy spacers for our 5 lug 4.5 inch lug circle in thicknesses of 1/16" (steel), 2/16" (steel), and 3/16" (billet aluminum) here.

One rule of thumb I've heard is to make sure that you still have enough stud left to hold the wheel on securely, make sure the lug nuts still have six complete revolutions of travel to tighten.
 
Joel said:
I don't understand the reservations people have with spacers. What do they compromise?
I'm not sure whether you are referring to the thin plate type spacers, or the thick ones that come complete with new studs.

The downside of the thin plate type spacers is that, if they're too thick, they don't leave enough stud remaining for the lug nuts to securely hold the wheel - hence the "six turns" rule of thumb mentioned above. You can get around that with longer studs if necessary.

If you start pushing the wheels out really far, then you really must get the kind of spacer with integral studs, to maintain a secure hub. But the downside then is that the extra spacing starts to change the suspension geometry and could affect the handling.
 
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