I am installing new Volk GT-N's, 17X8F, and 18X10R. The fronts fit fine with lots of caliper clearance but the rears just barely touch the innermost part of my TAR-OX brakes. I probably need just 2-3mm more clearance. So spacers? What kind? Are there different types? Returning the wheels is not an option since there are little scrapes on the inside of the spokes. Thanks for the help.
Wheel help, please . . .
- Thread starter airedale
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You can try the H&R website! I've also seen some on the JC Whitney catalog also!
Good luck
Z
Good luck
Z
Hi Fergus,
Try this to solve your problem.
Gary
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=937
Try this to solve your problem.
Gary
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=937
Or you can try these for a third of the price of Dali's:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=5864&BQ=jcw2
Good luck either way!
Post pics too! I love the GT-P's and almost bought a set for my NSX.
Regards
Z
http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=5864&BQ=jcw2
Good luck either way!
Post pics too! I love the GT-P's and almost bought a set for my NSX.
Regards
Z
That is if you only want your lugs to run on 2/3 of the stud - you get what you pay for: if you want those expensive wheels to stay on, get the extended studs kit (note the disclaimer on the jcwhitney that says extended studs may be required)
Good watchin out D'Ecosse!!
Speaking from experience - my rear wheels are a little tight against the caliper (about a business card space would make t clear!) and the previous owner installed those spacers (or similar); Probably right at about 1/4 - 3/8"; the lugs were only about half way on the studs. Just before I bought it I was going through the service history receipts & saw that there was an issue with one of the studs, said the lug was broken unable to remove wheel. Well, the dealer's mechanic then proceeded to try to chisel it off or something because it was totally all chewed up (fortunately no damage to wheel).
I ended up having to drill out the stud in order to get that lug off, to remove the wheel. It took a progression of drills working up from 1/8 to 1/2" & eventually the lug just fell off onto the drill bit. New stud & lug later, total cost about $2.50 (Big O tires simply gave me lug free when I tried to find match
Incidentally dealer who screwed up the lug, wanted $600 to replace the hub to repair it, which owner declined - all this denoted on the service receipt.
So, the wheel didn't fall off, but it did cause additional stress on the lug/stud due to only being on about half the threads.
Bottom line, you don't want to be driving a car like this with the lateral cornering forces it can create against only half threaded lug nuts.
I ended up having to drill out the stud in order to get that lug off, to remove the wheel. It took a progression of drills working up from 1/8 to 1/2" & eventually the lug just fell off onto the drill bit. New stud & lug later, total cost about $2.50 (Big O tires simply gave me lug free when I tried to find match
Incidentally dealer who screwed up the lug, wanted $600 to replace the hub to repair it, which owner declined - all this denoted on the service receipt.
So, the wheel didn't fall off, but it did cause additional stress on the lug/stud due to only being on about half the threads.
Bottom line, you don't want to be driving a car like this with the lateral cornering forces it can create against only half threaded lug nuts.
The good ones also have a centering lip which I believe carries some of the load (as does your stock hub). Without that your lugs are carrying the full load under shear. Ever seen what happens when they cut loose? Don’t even think about it, buy the good ones.
Thank you all for your comments. I'll get the Dali kit. Now, to replace the lugs I'll have to remove the hubs. Anybody have hints, suggestions about this. Thanks again.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf
Under suspension section, page 674 to save you searching.
Please note step 1 and loosen the spindle nut BEFORE you raise the car - you'll need a 36mm socket for that, so stop by Sears & pick one up before you start! Its pretty straight forward if you follow the instructions in the manual. You may get away w/o taking off the brake banjo hose, which will make the job quicker & you won't have to bleed your brakes after (I managed to leave it intact - just make sure you support the caliper & don't let it dangle by the hose)
Good Luck!
It seemed to me that putting in those spacers (5mm) was a lot of work when I only needed about a mm or so. So I got the bright idea that I would just grind off that much from the top, inner edge of the caliper. You want to know how long that takes with my little Dremel? Whew! Finally I got an attachment for my drill. So now I've got about a mm clearance (at most). Is this safe? I drove it just on my driveway without any contact. I checked the Stoptech site and they say 2mm is the minimum. So I guess I'll have to grind a little more and then repaint. Ideas, suggestions? In retrospect, I probably should have gone with the spacer but that may put the tire just outside the fender.
Wow, i have the GT-N and are having the same problems...Ahhhh So are wheel spacers good or bad? Are there any spacers that are about 2mm-3mm. 5mm is too much. Look like on eof those Cholo cars IMO. =)
Any help would be great.
Any help would be great.
I don't think you'll even notice 5mm - that is less than 1/4 "
I know all about it. I lost my right front wheel at a speed of 130 mph on the track of Assen (Netherlands) while braking for a chicane.
All my lugs broke, probably because of a faulty spacer.
Gerard
How did that happen? Tell me so I won't make the same mistake.
I think it was a combination of two things:
1. to much torque (I'm not sure of that)
2. I used a spacer that needed longer lugs and I used the OEM ones and the centering didn't fit tight enough
When you go thicker than 2 mm, install longer lugs and go for special the lugs they use on race cars. The material is different.
My lugs are 5 mm longer than OEM.
I still use 10 mm spacers because of my Brembo Big Brakes with a centering lip. This centre lip is very important and carries a lot of load.
I do lot of track racing so there is a lot of stress on the lugs and spacers.
Gerard
I have the H&R 5mm spacer (from Dali)and longer lugs but the spacer WILL take the wheel off the supporting hub. So . . . are the lugs going to be strong enough in and of themselves to support the wheel under high stress? If not, that argues for never using a spacer.
Do the spacers have a supporting centering lip? If not, don't use them!!!!
The lugs themselves aren't made to hold the wheel without a centering lip.
With the right spacers (and lugs), there is no problem using them. I myself use them in trackracing and all the porsches use spacers.
Gerard
The lugs themselves aren't made to hold the wheel without a centering lip.
With the right spacers (and lugs), there is no problem using them. I myself use them in trackracing and all the porsches use spacers.
Gerard
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