Wheel bearing replacement
- Thread starter DaveJP
- Start date
i've done it on other cars... remove cotter pin, take off nut, remove, clean, inspect, and repack bearings, then reinstall.
Here's a great how-to for doing the rotors: (dan-o is the man)
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/rotors/rotors.htm
Here's a great how-to for doing the rotors: (dan-o is the man)
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/rotors/rotors.htm
hlweyl,
The NSX has a competely different style wheel bearing. You are describing dual taper roller bearings, which you described quite accurately BTW
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DaveJP,
The wheel bearings on the NSX are sealed bearings and are not a maintenance item typically. You change them if they go bad, which usually means too much play and/or noise.
To check them grab each wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and check for play. There should be none.
To answer your question directly: big job
If you do need to change one, I will go into more detail if you like. You will need a press.
HTH,
LarryB
The NSX has a competely different style wheel bearing. You are describing dual taper roller bearings, which you described quite accurately BTW
. DaveJP,
The wheel bearings on the NSX are sealed bearings and are not a maintenance item typically. You change them if they go bad, which usually means too much play and/or noise.
To check them grab each wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and check for play. There should be none.
To answer your question directly: big job
If you do need to change one, I will go into more detail if you like. You will need a press.
HTH,
LarryB
Thanks for the reply..I have no play in any of the wheels, but since I was going to have the rotors replaced, I thought I would ask about the wheel bearings. I am experiencing a noise which is loudest at about 40-55 mph (not rpm dependent)..The best I can describe is that it is a (don't laugh) fast, rythmic woo woo woo type of noise that increases in pitch with speed...By 60+ mph you really can't hear it any longer. It almost sounds like tire noise from a badly worn or imbalanced tire...My tread however is good and I have had the balance and alignment checked. Tires are Pilot Sports with about 15k miles on them. Swapped on my original stock 15/16 rims and tires...same noise. Also strange is that the noise seems to decrease when I have a passenger. Acura tech thought it was tire noise, but after the wheel/tire swap, I'm stumped. Best I can tell the noise seems to be emanating from the front (several passengers seem to agree), but it's tough to tell from inside the NSX cabin. Any ideas? Thanks.
I would have a look at the CV joints. Check for a line of grease spraying out from the larger end of the seal (not the shaft side, but the joint side) If you see any grease it could indicate a bad CV caused by lack of grease.
What I have found is that the grease brakes down over time and get very thin and soupy. When I removed a perfectly good boot recently I was surprised when the grease "ran" out.
HTH,
LarryB
What I have found is that the grease brakes down over time and get very thin and soupy. When I removed a perfectly good boot recently I was surprised when the grease "ran" out.
HTH,
LarryB
DaveJP, I am also experienceing the 'Woo woo' noise at 60 mph. It starts @ 58 and is gone by 65. I have yet to check bearings or cv joints, but I had a similar experience with my Miata. It had a vibration that developed @ 65 mph, and almost all Miatas did this. Adding a frame brace practically eliminated it. It had to do with the main 'spine' of the frame. Or something...I'm still gonna check the CVs though as per Larry's suggestion. If you check before me, please let me know what's said. I'll pm you if I get mine checked out first.
hlweyl,
Next time you are under the "shadetree" look over, I will be there next to you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad to help.
Thank you for your kind words.
LarryB
Next time you are under the "shadetree" look over, I will be there next to you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad to help.
Thank you for your kind words.
LarryB
Definitely a possible culprit..I just had a leaking outer boot replaced on the right rear....I asked about replacing the entire joint, but the tech stated that the joint looked fine and the boot still had plenty of grease in it. Noise did not change after the new boot kit was installed...Makes me wonder as to whether or not the joint is the culprit...Larry, when doing the boot replacement, is it possible to detect a bad CV by visual inspection, or do you really need to break it down?
I have not had a leaky, bad joint apart. Mine was leaking and I got it in time, there was never any noise, I was doing a tech inspection for the track, noticed it and fixed it.
Typically the visual inspection should show some wear on the spherical bearings and there mounts, but I cannot say first hand, never had a bad joint under the microscope.
Does the noise change with rotation? Even when the car is moving slowly? If so, get the car on stands, and make sure it is safely secure, fire it up and get under there and listen with the car in gear. You can use a hose to your ear to try to isolate the sound.
I will say this is a hard thing to pin down. Especially since it may be hard to hear if the joint is not under load. You can also try driving the car in an open parking lot and swerving(sp?) side to side to change the load and see if the noise comes and goes. A right turn will load the left rear and visa-versa. This method is what I use typically to isolate a bad bearing rather then a CV joint though.
HTH,
LarryB
Typically the visual inspection should show some wear on the spherical bearings and there mounts, but I cannot say first hand, never had a bad joint under the microscope
.Does the noise change with rotation? Even when the car is moving slowly? If so, get the car on stands, and make sure it is safely secure, fire it up and get under there and listen with the car in gear. You can use a hose to your ear to try to isolate the sound.
I will say this is a hard thing to pin down. Especially since it may be hard to hear if the joint is not under load. You can also try driving the car in an open parking lot and swerving(sp?) side to side to change the load and see if the noise comes and goes. A right turn will load the left rear and visa-versa. This method is what I use typically to isolate a bad bearing rather then a CV joint though.
HTH,
LarryB
i'm having the same problem and i'm suspecting its my rear driver-side wheel bearing. It's make an annoying tapping noise. As i go higher up in speed, the tapping noise gets faster and faster. I still hear it when i depress my clutch, so i'm guessing its nothing with my engine? Well, any more help or suggestions would be great. =)
thanks
-Garrett
thanks
-Garrett
