What do you think of this pre-purchase inspection?

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15 June 2010
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131
I am the OP of the "New Owner - '94 Honda NSX (oops I mean Acura)" thread on this forum.

I haven't actually bought the car yet. I got the financing, downpayment, and insurance all lined up, and sent it out for a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection. Here's what came back:

Compression by cylinder:

1 = 150
2 = 130
3 = 155
4 = 150
5 = 155
6 = 160

155 and consistent compression in all cylinders is good. So #2 is a bit off.

Leak down test in each cylinder:

1 = 12%
2 = 14%
3 = 14%
4 = 13%
5 = 14%
6 = 10%

10% leakdown is good; 15% is bad.

There are oil leaks from the front and rear valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gaskets. No oil leaks from the engine seals.

The clutch is "iffy." Brakes chatter (I did not notice this when I test drove it). Intake is not Carb legal.

No spare tire, and some missing trim pieces (which you have to know the NSX well to see that they are missing, I never noticed.

I'm reconsidering this. The price is about right for a really good example of a '94 Coupe. Seller (used car lot) has already dropped the price to what they paid for the car, and won't go lower because they will lose money. So the choice is not to negotiate a lower price based on the inspection, it is to either buy it or walk away. The financing got delayed so I have the weekend to think about it.
 
Can't tell without knowing what you are paying to see if it makes sense with what it will cost to get it up to snuff.
 
They want what I think would be a fair price for a really good, original example of a '94 coupe = $25,500. But if this car needs a lot of work at that price, I think I walk away and look elsewhere.
 
That would be a good price for a '91. A good '94 should get 10k more if maintained properly.

Agreed. No way is that "about right" for a "really good" 94 coupe. Is that the right price for *this* car? Would take more info. But a *genuinely* clean 94 coupe with no stories? Not happening.
 
Personally, I suspect I would walk if it is the price of a good 94'.

New Paint, if done well is worth quite a bit... but there are nice early 91's and 92's for the $25k to $30k range.

I haven't seen many 94's... they may pull a higher price, since for the most part they are the last year of the coupes... 95 and on are mostly NSX-T's...

I do know there are a few later model coupes but they are hard to come by...

I know people can dump allot of money into these cars... engines, etc. But there are engines posted on prime and eBay every once in a while.

It looks nice enough... and I personally don't know how much it could cost to fix some of the potential issues from the PPI.

I'm sure there are some NSX mechanic's/experts out there who will chip in over the weekend.

Larry B would be a great source.

There may be a reason it sat at the dealership for several months... other than the poor economy.
 
I wouldn't touch it personally!
 
I hope you don't really believe this line they are feeding you.

DEALERS NEVER LOSE MONEY OR "BREAK-EVEN".

Not true^^

Not saying this dealer is..

I am saying I have been a dealer for 12 years and I have lost money on cars. Sometimes it happens... Nothing you can do about it. Most commonly happens on specialty vehicles when things aren't noticed about a car when dealer buys it and then someone really familiar with the vehicle notices something that kills the value.
 
Not true^^

Not saying this dealer is..

I am saying I have been a dealer for 12 years and I have lost money on cars. Sometimes it happens... Nothing you can do about it. Most commonly happens on specialty vehicles when things aren't noticed about a car when dealer buys it and then someone really familiar with the vehicle notices something that kills the value.

Let me know when are ready to lose money on a miata. I can help. :biggrin:
 
i would hold out for one in better shape.you can put a lot of money into getting these right.i think the best nsx to buy is from a prime member who cared about the car and maintained it well.
 
Your idea of a fair price is considerably lower than actual market prices.

I thought the same thing when I first saw this. Hahaha, 94 is the best years for the NA1 coupe........... but I then again I could be bias.
 
I am a bit unfortable with this one. Compression and Bleed down could be better. Clutch could be on last leg and brake chatter =$. Missing trim----why? Over all how does the car compare to a reall clean, crisp 8-9 out of 10--? There reallly is nothing special about a 94 to make paying a premium like a 97 with 3.2 and 6spd. I also don't buy for a second the BS from the used car dealer--hell, most smart dealers don't loose any sleep loosing a $ or two on one long shot deal as long at they make it up on other deals. Just remember the simple rule, you can always benefit by offering less. I would make a list of the issues, then if your really want to try to buy the car---write down the issues and a $$ offer $2-3K below that they say is there bottom line. Have your phone # on the paper and leave it with them. Nothing works better on a seller then a documented offer and time for them to stew on it for a while~~~. They are making bank loan payments on the car that is eating them alive so every hour it sits on the lot--it's costing them more money. Just be sure to make your "I want it or I want a better one" before you get into negotiations as winning the negotiations isn't the same as winning the right car for the right price!!!!!
 
I am a bit unfortable with this one. Compression and Bleed down could be better. Clutch could be on last leg and brake chatter =$. Missing trim----why? Over all how does the car compare to a reall clean, crisp 8-9 out of 10--? There reallly is nothing special about a 94 to make paying a premium like a 97 with 3.2 and 6spd. I also don't buy for a second the BS from the used car dealer--hell, most smart dealers don't loose any sleep loosing a $ or two on one long shot deal as long at they make it up on other deals. Just remember the simple rule, you can always benefit by offering less. I would make a list of the issues, then if your really want to try to buy the car---write down the issues and a $$ offer $2-3K below that they say is there bottom line. Have your phone # on the paper and leave it with them. Nothing works better on a seller then a documented offer and time for them to stew on it for a while~~~. They are making bank loan payments on the car that is eating them alive so every hour it sits on the lot--it's costing them more money. Just be sure to make your "I want it or I want a better one" before you get into negotiations as winning the negotiations isn't the same as winning the right car for the right price!!!!!

off topic but I wouldn't say a 94 is not different enough to warrant more money over a 91. For one there is no snap ring issue, period, the arm rest is different with a cup holder ( a useless one though ), there are 2 air bags vs 1, the car itself is newer, and if your the type that wants to keep it stock, the factory 7 spoke 16/17 looks infinitely better than the stock 15/16 wheels on a 91-93 model. Also it is the last year of the NA1 coupes
 
End of Story: I passed on this '94 and bought a '92 that was in better condition, had all the service records and the original wheels, and had some mods that I wanted. Will post up as "New Owner" after the details of the deal are done.

Thanks to everyone at NSXPrime that posted up. Your knowledge and understanding of these cars is amazing. :cool:
 
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