What clutch should I buy? 1992 Stock

[N-Wing]

I recently purchased a 1992 NSX (I envied you all for long enough). The clutch is nearing the end of its life. So I have two questions. 1. What clutch should I buy assuming moderate street use (It must be very streetable and maybe OEM is the answer). 2. Does anyone have any experience with changing one themselves? I don’t trust any dealers in my area but don’t want to get too far over my head. Any thoughts? Mike / Connecticut

 

[nsxtasy]

You don't mention your priorities - whether you want a clutch that grabs quicker, vs one that is easier to engage, etc. Depending on your needs, the OEM clutch may fit them the best. However, I would suggest you try driving a car that has any other clutch you might be considering, so that you can decide based on personal experience.

2. Does anyone have any experience with changing one themselves? I don’t trust any dealers in my area but don’t want to get too far over my head. Any thoughts? Mike / Connecticut

I think you should consider having it installed by Larry Bastanza (you can contact him by sending a private message on NSXprime to username Larry Bastanza), who is located in Orange County, New York, less than an hour from Fairfield County, Connecticut. If you're at the opposite end of Connecticut, then another option would be Mechanics Direct Modifiers, outside Boston. Both are experienced, highly qualified, trustworthy servicers of the NSX.

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks for the insight on the dealers and clutch. I think I'm slightly more interested in engagment rather than bite. I'll consider the dealerships but both are over an hour away. I may still try to install it myself if I get some feedback that its a reasonable job.

 

[NetViper]

I really like the OEM clutch. I have driven a comptech PG2 and I really liked it also. I really did not like the EXEDY at all.

 

[Tom239]

I'd like a clutch that doesn't shudder. I've read the tips about how to avoid shudder with an OEM NSX clutch (blip throttle before engagement) but I would nonetheless prefer a clutch that worked better. I've owned manual shift cars from several manufacturers, and the NSX clutch is the only one I've had that would shudder at all. It's not like it does it all the time, but I'd prefer it never did.

I'd be interested to know which aftermarket clutches (for a 1995) are roughly similar to OEM in terms of engagement, pedal force required, and so on -- but which don't tend to shudder.

 

[NSXWIND]

I really did not like the EXEDY at all.

Stay away from EXEDY

 

[whiteNSXs]

OEM.
Steve

 

[Larry Bastanza]

For your purposes I would also suggest an OEM replacement. You should figure about $2200 for a replacement complete. New flywheel is included. If these are installed correctly that are quite smooth. I have NEVER had an issue with an OEM clutch.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[nsxexotic]

Had SPEC and had to take it out within a month to go back to OEM. So go with OEM and if you are in snap ring replace the case for the extra $600. Its worth the money.

 

[Briank]

I vote for OEM

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks everyone for your responses. I think I'm just going to stick with the OEM at this point. I'll think further on the installation. Someone brought up a good question on Snap-ring. I'm going to put another post asking questions on that. Thanks, Mike

 

[The Kid]

OEM is my vote. If you dont plan on going FI, it can handle the power of basic mods-I/H/E and lasts a good amount of time. Cost is basically the same as an aftermarket clutch and installation -according to my technicians is easier with an OEM clutch.

 

[Acura NsX Pilot]

For your purposes I would also suggest an OEM replacement. You should figure about $2200 for a replacement complete. New flywheel is included. If these are installed correctly that are quite smooth. I have NEVER had an issue with an OEM clutch.

HTH,
LarryB

Im sorry if this is off topic but would a light weight fly wheel help reduce shudder and is the new fly wheel that comes with the OEM clutch lite weight?

 

[nsxtasy]

Someone brought up a good question on Snap-ring. I'm going to put another post asking questions on that.

You can probably find the answers to all your questions in the FAQ, under Troubleshooting - Transmission (incl Snap Ring).

Cliff's Notes version: If your transmission is within the snap ring range: As long as you're replacing the clutch anyway, replace the upper transmission case and the snap ring at that time, and you'll never have to worry about it again.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Hi Bailey,

The OEM setup is a standard fylwheel so it is not a lite one. Will a new fylwheel stop the shudder, maybe. If so, it has nothing to due with the weight if it, rather it would be due to hot spots on the old flywheel, or more common would be the replacement of the old grease that is caked with clutch dust, during the new clutch installation.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Tom239]

The OEM setup is a standard fylwheel so it is not a lite one. Will a new fylwheel stop the shudder, maybe. If so, it has nothing to due with the weight if it, rather it would be due to hot spots on the old flywheel, or more common would be the replacement of the old grease that is caked with clutch dust, during the new clutch installation.

I'm interested to understand how and when shudder happens. If it's an accumulation of clutch dust with time, is there any preventive measure that can be taken?

I know that people with a lot of experience recommend OEM. Even so, it's going to be hard to bring myself to get another OEM clutch after the experience I've had with the one that came from the factory. From the comments in the FAQ page about clutches, a fair number of people have been getting shudder.

Are '97 clutches any better, and can you put one in a '95?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Ther is no preventive measure I am aware of. When I install them I use a minimal amount of grease on the splines to avoid the possibility of the dust caking too badly, but over the course of years it will accumulate.

The 97 clutch can be used in the early cars, as long as you are up for the cost of the flywheel Since the 97 clutch is a single disk it may be prone to less shudder. I have had a few owners mention that to me.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[The Kid]

Larry,
whats the advantage of a 97+ clutch in a 91-96 car?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Hi Mike,

I really do not see one. Soem say they shudder less, I have had my original OEM for 14 years (41K miles) and mine shudders so little, I do not really notice it.

I personally would not recommend a 97+ in an early car, based on cost alone.

HTH,
LarryB